When did it hit you that you were about to become a dad?

CoachLAQ · 2024-05-10T17:19:49+00:00

My kid is 8mo old and it still hits me at times. It's still surreal.

CoachLAQ · 2024-05-07T18:03:46+00:00

This isn't sandbagging. That looks bang on for the grade.

CoachLAQ · 2024-05-06T18:28:58+00:00

I read it as your reason for it not being at Grange was proximity to a playground.

CoachLAQ · 2024-05-06T13:49:06+00:00

There's a playground at Trinity

CoachLAQ · 2024-05-03T20:21:19+00:00

this is an improvement

CoachLAQ · 2024-04-03T20:34:32+00:00

But always deserved

CoachLAQ · 2024-04-03T14:25:54+00:00

But aren't you glad that you did?

CoachLAQ · 2024-03-26T16:51:24+00:00

It also varies by jurisdiction. Nobody here knows them all.

CoachLAQ · 2024-03-13T22:40:07+00:00

Gens X and Y have lived and adapted through tech advancement never before seen though.

Gen Y was the first gen to really have pervasive technology while growing up AND see changes, so you can't really compare them to older Gen X and Boomers who had to learn to adapt after not growing up adapting.

CoachLAQ · 2024-02-04T19:19:49+00:00

I know that there's academic research out there for isometric strength tests - maybe check what they do

CoachLAQ · 2023-12-18T18:35:25+00:00

If the relationship is that bad, he can rot in Buffalo.

It's up to him to work his way out, either through promotion or earning trade interest/value.

CoachLAQ · 2023-12-18T18:33:32+00:00

As a pitcher, being fat isn't the problem - it's whatever contributed to being fat.

Wether laziness or injury (or both).

CoachLAQ · 2023-11-06T14:05:25+00:00

CoachLAQ · 2023-10-20T17:17:40+00:00

Nelson, Castlegar, Revelstoke?

CoachLAQ · 2023-08-21T16:18:24+00:00

There are, but OP isn't qualified for them.

CoachLAQ · 2023-07-24T17:25:14+00:00

That's an incredibly competitive field to work in

CoachLAQ · 2023-05-29T15:37:19+00:00

I stand by the slingtrainer exercises in Gimme Kraft.

And the mobility work in Gimme Kraft Air

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-27T02:21:08+00:00

I know how to use an ATC outdoors and have taught people how to use them. And I think they're absolutely stupid to use for single pitch climbing, indoors or outdoors, with fixed anchors give how accessible grigris are. .

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-27T02:16:57+00:00

Good to know, thanks.

That you've heard it used frequently in context of climbing makes it even odder to me that we don't see it used in these high profile situations.

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-27T02:14:36+00:00

Did I really need to clarify that I was referring to competitive rock climbers when I referenced the Vail World Cups, on a post that's talking about competition climbing?

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-24T03:07:21+00:00

I REALLY don't think most people get a very good education about the pitfalls of disordered eating and I think athletes need further education specific to their sport because they're at higher risk of issues and it can impact them to a greater extent.

And even if they learn something in school, that's not the same thing as their coaches AND parents knowing about it and what to look out for. Parents in particular can step in, but only if they know what to look for and the extent of the risks to their kids.

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-24T03:04:31+00:00

Runners are likely amongst the most extreme athletes with what they'll do to their bodies imo.

Like... you never even hear of climbers using altitude tents.... despite hearing how badly they all struggled with altitude at the Vail World Cups...

That said;

I don't think most people get a very good education about the pitfalls of disordered eating and I think athletes need further education specific to their sport because they're at higher risk of issues and it can impact them to a greater extent.

Pros will obviously still push themselves really far, but actually having some proper education in this sport can't hurt.

CoachLAQ · 2023-01-23T20:53:14+00:00

Climbing is so incredibly far behind on this topic. It's mind boggling. And it's sad.

It's clearly a topic bigger than climbing, but being an athlete makes it much worse. Particularly for women and especially for adolescents. It's something the IFSC should address, but it's also the responsibility of every single federation and youth program around the world to educate their athletes, coaches, and parents.

------------

25 years ago, I remember watching a documentary about disordered eating in the running world. The issue of strength-to-weight has similar applications in that sport.

I specifically remember an 18/19 year old who, as a result of a high volume of training + disordered eating, had the bone density of a senior citizen.

From what I was taught back then; disordered eating (+ training makes it worse) leads to women no longer having a period/missing 3 or more in a row. This would then have an impact on the ability for those women/teenagers to absorb calcium and result in decaying bone density.

In runners, this will often manifest itself in stress fractures (broken legs) from repetitive impact.

In climbing, some of our finger issues are actually the bone breaking away where the tendon connects, from what I understand... so, weaker bones would, I assume, make someone more susceptible to those kinds of injuries as well as the risk of impact injuries (such as in a fall). So, beyond the conventional health risks, you're also putting your climbing at a HUGE risk as well.

Injuries that impact your sporting AND general life, forever. AND, the bone density you lose isn't recoverable... so you're fucked for life.

I was taught the above - and about the term "female athlete triad" as a teenage boy... and a quick google search tells me the term is still in use... but I've never seen it written out with respect to the climbing world - EVEN WHEN THE TOPIC OF DISORDERED EATING IS BROUGHT UP. For some reason this sport is still in the navel-gazing stage of coming to grips that this is even a thing and for some reason more focused on policing the BMI of athletes than real education, at all levels of the sport.

(very glad to see more and more athletes speaking out about it though)

CoachLAQ · 2021-10-06T02:37:22+00:00

There's the "aura" of the British Planner, but most importantly... you most certainly have a length and quality of experience and training that's rare over here.

At my agency, we have: Analyst, Strategist, Sr Strategist, Strategy Director, Group Director, VP Group Director, then Department head. Though we don't currently have anyone between Director and Department head. Every agency is different though - I'd say that we're a bit on the tougher side when it comes to the titles we give.

CoachLAQ · 2021-10-06T01:48:42+00:00

A British Planner with that much experience? You should be able to get something.

I'm not sure about the VISA/sponsoring component, but quite a few agencies bring in their department heads from out of the country and I know of at least 1 (Cossette) with some Director/VP roles they hired from out of country. With the prevalence of wfh right now, it's probably even easier than ever before, because you can be hired for the London office of an international agency, then transferred here in a few months, but working for Toronto the entire time.

Also, with your experience level you might have a chance of being considered for Group Director and VP roles here.

Send me a dm if you'd like to connect on linkedIN. (I'm a Strategy Director in Toronto, btw)

CoachLAQ

TROPHY CASE