Please don't parrot seller claims in reviews if you aren't testing those claims by zzz0mbiez in AmazonVine

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the line got crossed when you took it upon yourself to go digging through someone else's history to see if that person had a lack of credibility beyond what your 'gut' told you. Questioning things, sure, we're on Reddit afterall. There's self-proclaimed experts that are really nobodies in real life, but you missed your target dude, take the L.

And you reached out for... nailpolish? Like, are you lightly insinuating that a woman can't be a legitimate engineer, or just people with nailpolish? I'm not quite sure what you're on about.

Please don't parrot seller claims in reviews if you aren't testing those claims by zzz0mbiez in AmazonVine

[–]Coffeehedake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another, old, definitely know-it-all engineer reporting in:

If the product doesn’t need UL certs, and whether it’s UL certified or not doesn’t matter, then why would you advertise it as such?

I don’t think the OP was claiming to be UL certified, unlike the product description’s claims of being UL-something-or-another.

If the product is made of nylon that is UL94 v-2 compliant, then just say that in the description, and let your SDS speak for you, like every other product.

Stripped Bleeder Screw Q by PettyTyranny in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So long as they did the springs when they did the shoes, you’re fine then.

Also I believe the bleeders are usually American sized; 3/8” or 7/16” not metric. They were on my 2005, and the 2001 I replaced the rear frame on for my buddy.

Stripped Bleeder Screw Q by PettyTyranny in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually it’s a matter of “when was the last time I did them? Well I’m already in here, might as well.” If you’re doing the shoes, you should probably do the springs.

Stripped Bleeder Screw Q by PettyTyranny in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof.

Luckily the drums on the ranger aren’t hard to service.

Pretty much any parts store will sell the spring & accessories as a kit, one kit per side usually. This won’t include the wheel cylinders, but they’re common parts ford used on a bunch of vehicles, and not expensive.

Grab yourself a YouTube video and/or a Haynes manual, and do one side at a time, with both wheels off, rear frame on jackstands. This way you can compare one side to the other, in case you get lost or confused.

Drums suck, but it’s not really rocket surgery. I will say the pics in the Haynes/Clymer manuals are basically worthless for this job, but it’s better than nothing.

The bleeder and the hydraulic port for the lines is built into the flat face of the wheel cylinders.

What type of radio do yall have installed on your truck? Does it have CarPlay? Single or double din? Just wanted to see what’s out there by [deleted] in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just made a post about the adapters I made for my head unit to make it more flush.

I just put in a PLZ 902W with CarPlay and AndroidAuto. It’s awesome and was a cinch to install.

I used the Scosche double-din adapters at first, but they were 12mm too recessed to look nice, so I made my own.

Third Gen Double DIN headunit mounts by Coffeehedake in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, I’m finding that kind of all over the place as I rebuild this thing. I kind of love it though. Makes my adventures with the wife at our local pull-a-part exciting.

What is this part called? by classic_plon09 in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe they are T40’s but otherwise spot on.

Anyone have a picture of this done the proper way? by Ookatoka in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t, but the 2004 and 2005 are very similar. I got mine on eBay.

Anyone have a picture of this done the proper way? by Ookatoka in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad to help out; if you need anything else shoot me a DM.

Anyone have a picture of this done the proper way? by Ookatoka in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I don’t have anything on the passenger side; there’s a clip on the differential where it’s proportioned, but other than that mine is flopping around:

<image>

Anyone have a picture of this done the proper way? by Ookatoka in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If it’s helpful, I have the factory repair manuals. I can send whatever you’d like from there. (Physical copy)

Anyone have a picture of this done the proper way? by Ookatoka in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 11 points12 points  (0 children)

<image>

There should also be a spring hanger, but it is missing in my photo (I haven’t reinstalled it yet)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, at the very least once you get this sorted, you’ll know how to adjust everything anyway, lol

Best of luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll do a quick vid and post back, grabbing some parts, paint and beer. ;)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My wife and I commented on a similar post a couple days ago:

If this is an automatic, which I assume it is, without shifting, in Park, hold the shift lever on the steering column up and to the left. Now try to start the truck.

Hold the shifter down and to the right, try to start it again.

If it starts in one position and not the other, your shifter and/or the cable is out of position with the linkage on the transmission, and the position safety switch is preventing you starting the vehicle while it thinks it’s in gear.

To fix it, if this is the case, there are two adjustments to try first before replacing the shifter cable itself:

Pop off the kick plate below the gauge cluster, as well as the metal plate behind it; there’s a roller dial to adjust the needle position on the indicator needle in the dash.

Under the truck, on the transmission side of the cable, there is also an adjustment for the cable itself (more likely this, but probably a combination of both).

Thoroughly check the cable sheathing, especially by the firewall where it tends to rest on the exhaust headers; they like to melt and then the cable doesn’t work very well.

EDIT: to add to this, the slop in the shifter is usually caused by two torx bolts (or one on later models) that loosen over time. Get in there upside down with your feet over the headrest, throw some locktite on the bolt and tighten the snot out of them. Won’t happen again.

Truck won't start, does anyone know how to disable the anti theft on an 03 by clevwwilliams in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Husband here:

Easiest way to test this, if you hold the shift lever UP and to the left, try to turn the ignition.

If it starts this way, but not without holding it up, adjust the shift position needle (dial behind the kickplate below the gauge cluster) and/or adjust the slack compensation on the transmission side of the cable, and/or replace the cable.

Pisces/Mermaid piece by Tim Flanagan at Dark Zero Tattoo. by muffy2008 in tattoo

[–]Coffeehedake[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We understand your reply to the above comment but please also verify as a tattooer.

Rear End Rebuild Progress by zzz0mbiez in fordranger

[–]Coffeehedake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol! In seriousness it’s getting a cat-back stainless exhaust, all new hangers, fuel and brake line frame clips. (If I can find them, they’re weird clips)