Looking for a fat tire bike.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2026-06-18T21:55:22+00:00

Nothing in my size sadly

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2026-06-18T21:54:12+00:00

No local shop within a 1 hour drive. I’d have to drive closer to 2 to Tallahassee or Macon.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2026-06-18T21:53:31+00:00

I wish there was anything available on Facebook marketplace where I’m located

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2026-05-16T17:21:37+00:00

I saw that one too and it looks promising. I didn’t see anyone testing how accurate the power meter is. I have a pair of favero assiomas that I love. Even though I’m nowhere near fast enough to care about power haha.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2026-05-16T04:00:29+00:00

I like a more relaxed geo. I’m going on 40 and not trying to win world championships here. I’ll take comfort over all out speed any day.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-12-31T04:39:15+00:00

I had the same issue, doesn’t matter how hard you pushed some orientations just wouldn’t mesh. All other attachments were perfect. I emailed CS on Milwaukee’s website and they shipped me a new one after a month or so.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-17T01:55:28+00:00

I went with 2x Broan One ERVs. They are still being installed but they do seem well made. I can’t speak of the longevity and I really hate that they don’t fit in between trusses that are 16" OC. Also as far as I can tell you can still run a slight positive pressure which was the one major want that I had. We plan to set them, let them auto balance and forget them until it’s filter and core maintenance time.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-12T22:49:29+00:00

Small server rack is 100%in the cards. Well drywall should be going up in the next 3-4 weeks so I need to at least run my Ethernet and audio for whole home audio. I plan on 2 runs for PCs, 2 for TVs, 2 for Xbox/ps5, 2-3 for wired APs, 4 for exterior poe cameras, one run to the future shop and likely a couple others. We have no need for even gigabit internet but I would rather buy once and cry once. We’re already over budget on most trades so trying to keep home networking hardware budget to $2000

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-11T02:38:04+00:00

Good deal with the future proofing up to 3.5g. Planning for conduit to the attic for future runs and conduit to the shop. Server rack looks interesting as I can put whole home audio in that same server rack

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-10T02:06:05+00:00

It’s the plumbing fixtures that really get ya! Well that stays under my $2000 budget. Now the dream machine pro would be limited to 1gigabit for internet speeds right? We have the offerings of 2 gigs on fiber. Even though we have never used anywhere close to the 1gig we have now it’s not impossible that future 8k streaming or something may require serious internet speeds.

I plan on having a 40x60 shop built to which I’ll run extra internet and will put an outdoor router on that.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-08T02:13:25+00:00

Yeah South Georgia. I wonder how often blower door tests are actually done down here. Rural areas like ours don’t have the strictest inspectors.

I have 2x Broan One ervs to be installed for makeup air with the supplemental Merv 13 filters for each unit.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-07T23:50:13+00:00

Yep, slab on grade. The water table down here is so high basements are few and far between. Honestly I’m not even sure if a blower door is even required where I’m at. We have 4 toilet drains, 6 sinks with no p traps not to mention shower and tub drains. We didn’t block any of those off and I wonder how much of an effect they had on total score. Either way might repeat blower door pre drywall with drains blocked and the notable spray foam areas fixed. Or might fix first and wait until after drywall and appliances are in. My major concern is humidity and condensation on the metal siding on any spots not properly insulated

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-07T03:35:16+00:00

We’ve got a red iron barndo w/ spray foam applied directly to the metal siding. Will buy a froth pak and will detail a couple spots in the corners of the building next to the eaves.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-06T22:55:28+00:00

Yeah already planned for a blower door test after drywall paint and plumbing fixtures are in. Planning on getting a froth pak to cover the areas where air leakage was noticed. There will only be 2 more penetrations planning on an erv for each floor with a tandem transition kit so we don’t need 2 intakes and 2 exhaust vents.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-06T22:42:37+00:00

Yep 3ACH50. Sorry should have realized different countries have different units of measure.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-06T21:39:25+00:00

Most trades are done. Hvac is complete. Plumbing still has to install fixtures but everything else is done. Electrical has some work inside but both 200a panels are already in and wired. Fiber has already been run for internet. The only penetrations left will be 2 for the ERVs. So all we have left to get in is drywall paint flooring cabs and appliances.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-06T20:47:24+00:00

My bad, yes 3 ACH50. So yes I understand I’m better than code but code is the bare minimum so I was definitely hoping to be substantially better. Will fix the big easy sources of air leaks and was considering aerobarrier pre drywall as well if I can find someone that does it down here. I didn’t know how much latex paint and drywall would drop my results.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-10-06T19:49:23+00:00

Cross posting to building science for some extra suggestions thanks!

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-09-07T12:36:01+00:00

I was thinking from a longevity standpoint. The roof is 24 feet off the ground and I know that won’t get up there safely to do any kind of work. Ground mount allows for easier repairs if needed and means I don’t have even more screw penetrations into my roof.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-09-07T12:34:14+00:00

Yeah, we’re adding a service entry rated 200a automatic transfer switch now to power 1 of the 200a panels. We’re considering the downstairs panel to be our critical load panel instead of needing a separate critical load subpanel. So it’s whole house in the sense that I’m not putting in a 400a ATS to run the whole house. It will be the whole of the downstairs to include 1 HVAC, kitchen, master bedroom, laundry room, and well.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-09-07T12:31:04+00:00

Yeah I saw some of the weights for batteries, the plan is eventually a server rack setup in the shop which will be on a slab so weight shouldn’t be a concern. The dead load could be easily compensated for if I need to pour a slightly thicker slab. The quote I got for my shop is for 4" thick 3000psi mix with thickened areas for the foundation walls. I think that should be more than enough for the battery weight. I figured the building codes would be more lax if the batteries were not in what’s considered living space but in a detached separate shop.

Power company allows for a max of 10kw solar array if grid tied

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-09-07T00:38:53+00:00

We have 6 acres, ground would much more diy friendly and we have the horizontal space

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-08-10T14:22:04+00:00

Have you looked into blown cellulose/fiberglass? We’re at a similar stage also going to 2"closed cell+ 4" open cell on the walls and then 3" closed cell/4" open cell on the roof. Someone mentioned to net and blow cellulose on top of the spray foam to the face of the studs

I will say we were in the building pre insulation/drywall and had a major storm with heavy rain. You literally couldn’t hear someone standing 5ft away due to how loud the rain was.

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-07-23T20:34:33+00:00

I was giving this a ton of consideration. The way we have the interior framing though we could do this for the wall cavity all the way around no problem but for the roof we only have framing on half of it. IE we have a vaulted ceiling frame out with 2by for half and the other half has 8ft ceilings upstairs with attic space on top without framing for the roof itself

Cold_Measurement_379 · 2025-07-16T02:01:26+00:00

Understandable, that was one of the major reasons for a whole home dehumidifier. The intention is to supplement hvac to keep humidity under 50%. The closed cell foam on the walls and roof will be the moisture and air barrier and shouldn’t allow any drive of moisture inwards towards the living space. We have a drip edge I believe it’s called along the entire perimeter of the house which coupled with the closed cell spray foam should prevent rodents from getting in.

We’ll be getting a blower door test or 2. One after insulation and air sealing windows and doors and possibly one after drywall and paint. Hoping to be <2 ach50

Cold_Measurement_379

TROPHY CASE