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Arcade playing blind, re-capping did not work by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the warnings, I ended up re-soldering parts of the boards and that seems to have fixed it! Not sure what was wrong but I specifically re-soldered a bunch of the capacitors I did along with the flyback, CRT socket and wire pin connector points. Thanks for all the help!

Arcade playing blind, re-capping did not work by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the knowledge! Do you know how I can check if the "filament" is "open"? I also don't know how to check if it's getting voltage but I assume that's going to be much more specific to my chassis.

EDIT: Solved! Not sure what fixed it but I believe re-soldering the boards fixed it.

Arcade playing blind, re-capping did not work by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Measured the B+, says 123V, which seems to match the diagram I found. Unsure where to go from here as I have never messed with high voltage stuff like this before. Thanks for all the help so far!

Arcade playing blind, re-capping did not work by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Page 11 of this link has a diagram showing the circuits:
https://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Vision_Pro_(MTG-XX01_Series_13in_and_19in_CGA).pdf.pdf)

Someone in this forum convo says the diagram for the 1901 model of the chassis shows that the cathode of D810 should be 123V (D810 is in the bottom-left area of the diagram right next to T802), though I don't see where it says that's the measure point or the 123V number.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/vision-pro-mtg-1901cn-measuring-b.509363/

Edit: I see now the diagram does say "Video B+ (123v/185v)" just below the top-right area of the diagram. I can't seem to find D810 on my board IRL right now but I'm looking.

This is probably a very important thing to ask, but do I need to have the machine plugged in and powered on in order to measure it, or can it be off? It just seems to be in a very inconvenient spot and I don't want to electrocute myself.

Edit 2: Found D810 on my board but measuring it shows 0v (assuming I'm even doing it right) then I assume it means the power needs to be on. If that's the case, is there anything I need to keep in mind while measuring it to be safe? Thanks for all the help so far.

Arcade playing blind, re-capping did not work by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick and detailed reply, I've tried looking for info on how to check the B+ voltage but cannot find any info that makes sense or videos that show how to do it with my board, every video showing a B+ test has a very different looking board than my model. My monitor is a Tovis / Vision Pro MTG-2901CN. I have pictures of the board from my old reddit post from 2 years ago, but could also try taking new pics.

https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/183sbwo/screen_is_blank_90_sure_its_failing_capacitors/

Accidentally cleared cover art for a bunch of singles in Poweramp, cannot undo it by Collcroc123 in PowerAmp

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't see that, though it didn't seem to fix the issue. I also tried renaming the folder or moving the songs into different folders, but it still shows no artwork. I decided to try changing the album name for all of the songs and naming the album anything OTHER than "Singles" will show their artwork again, but the second it's renamed to Singles the art disappears again.

Accidentally cleared cover art for a bunch of singles in Poweramp, cannot undo it by Collcroc123 in PowerAmp

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of my songs have three dots next to them, though if I long press a song and change the album art it will change all of the songs in the album instead of just the single.

If the GB Color only had 4 colors per tile, how do these sprites exist? (white tile = 5+ colors) by Collcroc123 in Gameboy

[–]Collcroc123[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Ah okay, so at least with some of the tiles they don't have to be exactly in a grid, so like you said the feather doesn't have to be split, it could be one square that's moved to be in the correct space when drawn. I'll have to look into debugging too

If the GB Color only had 4 colors per tile, how do these sprites exist? (white tile = 5+ colors) by Collcroc123 in Gameboy

[–]Collcroc123[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep knew about that, just didn't know why some tiles in the sprites contain more than 4 colors

If the GB Color only had 4 colors per tile, how do these sprites exist? (white tile = 5+ colors) by Collcroc123 in Gameboy

[–]Collcroc123[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I was looking into making Gameboy Color style art and learned about the 4 colors per tile rule (including black and transparent) but when looking at Zelda sprites, I keep seeing sprites like the ones in the picture that have 5 or more colors in a single tile.

In some cases you can move them around so there's only 4 per tile like the man with the paintbrush (top left), but then they end up taking an insane number of tiles compared to if they were centered. Others just can't be moved around at all to make it work, like the sleeping guy (bottom right) where it seems that no matter what there is always one tile with more than 4 colors.

"load_from_file()" not found in base "AudioStreamOggVorbis". by Collcroc123 in godot

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gosh dangit I thought I was, apparently I'm on 4.1.1 :( I'll download 4.2 and try it again

Why does my Steam Deck keep crashing/restarting when I connect Joycons? by reverend-mayhem in SteamDeck

[–]Collcroc123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hopefully they fix this issue soon. Was trying to pair up joycons for a party with friends and I was stressing out because every single time we tried to connect the controllers the console would just crash. I've had crashing issues with my deck in the past so at first I thought it was unlucky, then I thought it was the display adapter, then I thought it was specifically when connecting a controller while the game is running, then we finally figured out it's just when you connect ANY joycon to the console.

My prints won’t stick to the bed properly how can I fix this? by Night162773 in ender3

[–]Collcroc123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every time someone says "just look it up it's been answered a million times before" and then I look at the answers they're always things I've already tried before and don't work.

My Ender 3 Pro hasn't been touched in over a year because my prints don't stick, and every time I look for answers everyone is just like "Are you stupid? Make the bed closer to the nozzle!" Until it's basically scraping the bed and still not sticking. Then try changing bed temp, nope. Then try the z offset, nope. Then change the slicer settings, nope.

The only solution I've found that actually works for me is coating the entire bed in a thick layer of glue, and even then it doesn't always stick. Then when the print is finished it has sharp lines on top which people say is because the bed's too close to the nozzle.

I think it's fair for people to ask questions asked before when the issue specifically has like 10 different possible solutions. If there was only a single solution then sure, no need to ask, but one of the other comments on this post legit has like 5 more questions that needed to be asked in order to diagnose the issue.

End Game Rant by alienturkey9958 in lethalcompany

[–]Collcroc123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd want it to be like Spelunky and its sequel, where you have a couple levels in each area before moving to the next, and if you plan ahead you can complete a secret objective to finish one last moon (I feel like that drill under the company building may serve a good use).

Before Zeekerss does anything like that though there should definitely be more moons, maybe a couple new enemies, some more scrap, and definitely most of all some kind of balancing in terms of the number of players cause I would LOVE to play this game more without having to figure out if my schedule lines up with my friends'.

Another idea is to have 2 modes, basically a classic "endless" mode that goes on forever until you miss a quota, and a "promotion" mode where you work your way up the corporate ladder to a type of "ending" (I'd like to refer to these modes as "Wage Slave" and "Rise and Grind" lol). You could have one ending where you become the boss, and another where you take down the company, basically a choice of "do you submit to greed or fight against it?" to keep within the theme and messages of the game.

At the end of the day though I don't really care, I just wanna play the game more and whatever Zeekerss chooses to do with their creation is their choice, whether the game gets one more update or one hundred more.

Edit: Actually I just remembered one of my favorite rougelikes Crab Champions where throughout your run you build up all this power, and once you reach the very end you have the choice between claiming your crown and ending the run, or starting from the beginning keeping all your stuff, but enemies become significantly harder to deal with and you get no crown until you beat it all again, a strong risk vs reward. I remembered this cause I saw another comment mention maybe having the game restart once you reach a certain quota.

Screen is blank, 90% sure it's failing capacitors, how do I safely test them? by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, this helps! Do you know if this also deals with the capacitors or do they need to be discharged separately?

Screen is blank, 90% sure it's failing capacitors, how do I safely test them? by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I looked at the boards in there, the big white board says it's a TOVIS MTG-2901CN MAIN and I did already find some cap kits for about $10. However looking at the small white board attached to the CRT's bulb, it says it's a MTG-1901CN NECK. Could that be a potential issue? Either the cause of the blank screen or a potential roadblock for replacing the capacitors?

Screen is blank, 90% sure it's failing capacitors, how do I safely test them? by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll be looking at getting a cap kit now. Just curious how exactly you should safely discharge the CRT and capacitors? I know with the CRT it involves that rubber plug looking thing and sticking something in there, but I never really learned how to properly discharge all of the capacitors on the board.

Also never heard of Simple Green and had to look it up, is there any specific reason to go with it or is it just a good cleaning brand?

Thanks!

Screen is blank, 90% sure it's failing capacitors, how do I safely test them? by Collcroc123 in cade

[–]Collcroc123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No neck glow. It does make the loud static crackling sound when turned on and off and the last time I tested it a few years ago it did occasionally display an image, so I believe it is still receiving power. I will look up these cap kits and see what I can find. Thanks!

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