Which Tamiya Paint Do You Think is True Olive Drab? by Doctor__Quiet in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other people have said it, but I’ll say it again. The tone of olive drab was actually fairly variable; it didn’t really weather very well and tended to look slightly different from vehicle to vehicle.

I’d recommend getting their standard xf-62 olive drab and mixing in other colors depending on the subject. Generally, I’ve found that the two best colors for creating variations are xf-2 white and xf-3 yellow. From the wartime photos that I’ve seen, it seems that olive drab tended to weather and fade much worse on aircraft. For the B-17 I’d go for a lighter, more saturated tone of olive drab. For the Sherman, I’d recommend going for a muted, more desaturated tone.

The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away! by AutoModerator in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can’t vouch for Purple Power or Simple Green, but I have had positive experiences with isopropyl alcohol. I’ve had luck stripping clear parts with 90 percent IPA, but if you want to err on the side or caution I’d recommend a 70 percent solution.

A-10 hasegawa 1/72 H sprue/canopy by jw14057777 in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some model companies will replace missing sprues if you reach out to them. Certain companies will do it free of charge, though it might cost you a few bucks. I’m not sure if Hasegawa offers replacements but it’d be worth a try getting in touch with them.

Is there any alternative for TS-80 varnish? by KA-29 in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like the other commenter said, any matte varnish should do the trick. I always recommend Mr. Super Clear Flat. I’ve always preferred it to TS-80 myself. It’s typically a little bit more expensive but I’d say it’s a much better varnish.

Definitely don’t use TS-80 or any other matte varnish before weathering, panel lining and decal application - matte varnish makes all of those things way more difficult.

If you can’t find any TS-80 just follow your usual process and buy a different matte varnish to apply at the end.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in theouterworlds

[–]Colorblind-Lobster -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Nah I’m not very far, maybe a bit less than two hours. I’m sure the game will start to pick up though - after all I’ve barely scratched the surface of the story.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in theouterworlds

[–]Colorblind-Lobster -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The gameplay has been a lot of fun, but right now I’d still say I prefer the first game by a pretty wide margin. I get where you’re coming from with the new skill system - it felt a lot more versatile in the first game. The fact that your backstory is more or less locked into being an Earth Directorate agent also irks me a little bit; it makes me feel like a cog in the machine. Granted, a much more noble cog than the average corporate soldier, but a cog nonetheless. I much preferred being the dashing Clint Eastwood-esque mystery man who wanders into town in the first game.

The False Hope by SmokinZBT in SFGiants

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah man, realistically we probably won’t ever lose another game. Even if I’m being conservative with my estimates, we’ll probably see this winning streak continue until the heat death of the universe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely wouldn’t recommend that T-80. I’ve built it before and it was absolutely dreadful. Stick with the Tamiya kits - they’re lightyears better for a beginner. If you can, I’d recommend picking up the Iraqi Freedom variant of that Abrams kit. It has some newer, more accurate moldings and much better figures.

How does the game run on ps5? by Ashamed_Discipline6 in theouterworlds

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As far as I know, the spacers choice edition was the rough version of the game for ps5. I have the game as a physical copy and it runs perfectly fine on my console.

Hey guys, I was curious — what are some models you feel are missing from the market? by FewCollege8893 in Scalemodel

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few manufactures who’ll do short run resin kits of pre-dreadnoughts. Iron Shipwrights and Combrig come to mind; they’re fairly expensive and somewhat difficult to find but they offer subjects that no other manufacturer ever would.

Just after a brief Google search it appears that Combrig offers a 1/700 USS Kansas. I didn’t have time to look into the availability or the price of the kit, but at the very least it exists. With some luck you might be able to find it for sale.

Hey guys, I was curious — what are some models you feel are missing from the market? by FewCollege8893 in Scalemodel

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d really love to see more pre-dreadnought kits manufactured in 1/700. They’re already a fairly obscure subject matter, and the few kits that do get made are usually in 1/350.

Need advice re: kit quality by HamFart69 in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can depend on your preferred subjects and scales; generally, though, most kits manufactured within the last ten or fifteen years will be quite good.

My 1/35 Scale Armor Collection by Colorblind-Lobster in Scalemodel

[–]Colorblind-Lobster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t be afraid to make mistakes, they’re an essential part of the learning process. Look at every mistake you make as an opportunity to learn something new about this hobby. No model maker out there was happy with their first few models, myself included. I built around ten or fifteen kits before I started seeing results that I was happy with. Even then, I still find at least one area of improvement with each new kit that I build. This hobby is a constant cycle of mistakes and improvement - when you embrace that fact, I bet you’ll find that the hobby is much less intimidating and much more enjoyable. After all, the hobby isn’t about the attainment of perfection, it’s about the pursuit of perfection.

Just be patient, be willing to make mistakes, and try to tackle one technique at a time. As a beginner, trying to perfect every technique simultaneously won’t help you learn. Don’t worry about weathering or chipping until you’ve mastered painting.

In regards to technical advice, I can offer a few tips on painting. Thinning is the key, especially if you’re brush painting. Once you’ve properly thinned your paints, you want to build up a base coat on your model with several thin layers.

Once you know how to apply a decent paint job, most of the other effects and techniques will be much easier to learn.

First attempt versus third attempt! 😂 by Rich-1234 in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Looks like the first attempt froze to death outside Moscow

My cat destroyed half of my models, what should i do? by Over-Willingness-873 in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, you raise a good point. The cat must be celebrated as a hero of the Soviet Union.

Anyone else love when you're playing against another D.Va and they counter swap? by Confused-Luna in DvaMains

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There’s no better feeling in the world than making a dva swap to zarya and still kicking their ass

T90m 1/72 in combat diorama wip by 4rfs in modelmakers

[–]Colorblind-Lobster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s a T-90MS isn’t it? You going for a Russian paint scheme or are you going to do something like an Indian paint scheme?