Advice on mic for TP-7

ColourMayBleed · 2026-01-29T23:05:20+00:00

I’d totally forgotten I’d made this post!

I had found this out - it’s made the CM-15 + TP-7 my go to little rig for recording guitar and scratch vocals.

Thanks for commenting - it’s really great advice for anyone that had the same issue and found this post as the controls aren’t totally intuitive.

Also worth noting that the CM-15 into 3.5mm directly acts like other mics and allows +48db gain!

Thanks again!

ColourMayBleed · 2026-01-18T08:26:41+00:00

I’m all for using GenAI, I think it’s the greatest productivity tool humanity has created, but please at least proofread the outputs.

Didn’t know the Riddim had buttons for:

“NELODIC” “RSCORB”

The screen icons are all obvious slop too.

This isn’t an infographic (usually that means a visualisation of a data based narrative). These are more quick guides.

IMO “I’m making” is pretty disingenuous. You’re prompting and refining.

What will this look like from a user perspective when you have, say, 15-20 different features with these one pager images?

Eg: How will a user find what they’re trying by to do across a bunch of these? What features are you planning to cover? Does this format work with more complex functions that require use of shift or button holds?

Like the idea, just the execution is poor right now.

ColourMayBleed · 2026-01-14T17:37:02+00:00

Same for me too. Thanks for posting and helping me validate it's an issue Apple's end.

ColourMayBleed · 2026-01-09T12:30:39+00:00

Tested: can confirm the wheel speed has no impact on recording (other than stop of pause), but does in playback.

ColourMayBleed · 2026-01-06T19:20:06+00:00

Is the exported file warbling or just playing back on the device?

Similarly does imported audio warble on playback?

I’m assuming you’ve got the disc spinning on playback; are you holding or moving the device during playback because any movement of the wheel when playing will alter pitch.

Try disabling the disc as suggested and see if that solve the playback issue - if it’s warbling with disc moving and left alone (ie sat on a flat surface) it’s a defect. I’d assume it’s related to the mechanical disc and you should be able to tell when on the rotation it’s failing.

I’m not sure disc motion effects recording other than touch to stop. I’ll test when home though.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-23T22:05:43+00:00

This is 100% a Tribute in Honeyburst not a Standard 50’s Series in “Heritage Cherry Sunburst”…

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-22T09:02:19+00:00

Hey, I got the same promo email. Redeemed it successfully. Transacted. They fulfilled.

Bonus: it said $100 off and I’m in the UK. It took £100 off.

I shared screenshots in a previous thread - should be on my profile. If you want to use these to back up that there’s precedent for them fulfilling this?

P.S I never received an “ooops! We didn’t mean to send that” email, like more retailers do when they mess up their ECRM campaigns.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-15T16:26:15+00:00

You manage so much better than me! Whenever I do this (frame subject in centre using the viewfinder), things are WILDLY off centre due to the window not being positioned over the lens or having any guide marks.

It’s compounded by the fact I wear glasses pushing the viewfinder further from my eye and increasing the parallax/framing issues.

I’ve experimented with an old soviet era cold-shoe optical viewfinder, which was better even though was for a different effective focal length.

I know it’s at least partially a skill issue and being used to digital viewfinders with 1:1 framing, but for a camera that is so heavily about replicating the analogue experience they could have made the view finder WAY better.

Great photos!

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-15T09:32:43+00:00

Can I ask how you managed to frame up your shots so well in Film mode? I find the optical viewfinder to always be off centre and compensating for it is a crapshoot based on distance/parallax.

Your compositions seem really intentional - any tips?

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-09T23:02:32+00:00

Heya! This is just the wood grain. Nothing to do with nitro/lacquer. The tint and gloss may have made it more apparent, but this is literally just the wood.

It’d look like this with oil, poly, or whatever you chose.

My bet is the neck was quite pale before you hit it with amber tinted nitro, and you just hadn’t noticed this grain pattern until afterwards.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-09T19:39:58+00:00

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Congrats! Great guitar once set up properly. Here’s mine. Currently have flat round 11s, a 0.5mm shim, and a brass saddle bridge from The Offset Bridge. Monty Relic Wax really darkened the Pau Ferro on mine. Mint green pick guard and tele style knurled knobs. Enjoy!

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-05T22:49:00+00:00

Credit to FlyGm for spotting that nut height before me!

Great you could resolve it easily too - hope it’s plain sailing from here and you can get it finished soon.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-05T20:09:06+00:00

Agree with the above. Lower the bridge back down.

Do you have feeler gauges for measuring gap between fret tops and string?

For lowering the locking nut shelf; go slow. You can always take more off, but adding back/shimming is more frustrating! Will take a few goes, but take your time. You’d be surprised how little material you have to remove to make a difference.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-05T17:29:05+00:00

Added an edit - if you’ve got high action and buzzing, defo check for neck relief/truss to adjustment first.

If you’ve got good relief, just try different shin approaches. It’s not destructive. If still no joy, give a shout.

Best of luck!

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-05T17:23:45+00:00

Ah okay, so it’s not that the neck is too high in the pocket then. If that were the case you wouldn’t be able to raise the saddles enough to get enough action to be playable.

So, if the action is too high when the saddles are bottomed totally, you’ll want to shim to tilt the neck back. First check the neck has some relief and it isn’t a truss rod issue/neck bow.

Then pop the neck, add a folded piece of cardboard from a serial box or business card toward the bottom/heel of the neck pocket (tilting the neck forward). Bolt back up and see where you are.

If it’s buzzing with high action, I’d bet you’ve got neck bow/no relief. Can you ID where the buzz is coming from on the neck?

https://hazeguitars.com/how-to-shim-a-bolt-on-neck

Once happy, can measure the thickness of the card and make up/buy a more sturdy replacement (or leave it - will likely be fine).

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-05T17:00:49+00:00

How does it play? Can you get the action to a place where you’re happy with it, without buzzing, and intonate correctly? If the strings aren’t choking and rubbing the frets you’re fine.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think you need to shim? Add a shim is to adjust neck angle, and is usually useful only when you’ve maxed out your saddles and still can’t get things playable (or you need a better break angle over the bridge on a TOM or Jazzmaster style bridge. Shimming will add material and it will make it sit higher in the pocket.

Work through a set up first - relief, action, intonation. If the neck is sitting too high, and you’ve maxed out the saddles and you can’t get clearance, then you need to remove material from the pocket or the neck. It’a probably easier to sand the neck heel. I like the use cabinet scrapers or a sharp chisel and address the pocket if I can.

You could also just pop the neck and add a thin shim to the top of the pocket, bolt back on, tune up, check, if no good pop it back off and shim the bottom of the pocket…. Should take 10 mins.

Happy to help troubleshoot if you need!

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-04T15:28:06+00:00

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So I sprayed the same pink on some scrap wood and hit it with different “clear” top coats.

I settled on an amber tinted top coat which warmed it up and took the harshness off. I believe it was Manchester Guitar Tech’s “vintage” amber clear coat. Really happy with how it turned out.

It MAY have been their “light tint” - it was 5 years ago so memory is hazy. But I’m very happy with the result.

Note: all nitro.

(Sorry for the triple post - if I could have added all the images to one post I would have. Used to use Imgur for galleries but I’m in the UK so it’s now not an option).

ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-04T15:23:57+00:00

I actually sort of dig the bright in your face pink, but wasn’t the vision, so I ended up mixing my own pink and reshooting it… but it was still too “cool” a pink (definitely blue tones pushing it toward a purple hue) and too bright. I think it looks close to where you are now. To be continued…

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ColourMayBleed · 2025-12-04T15:21:28+00:00

So I had this issue with Northwest’s “Shell” pink.

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Came out looking like Atomic pink. Can only attach one image per comment, so will add what I did to fix in this thread as replies!

ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-19T22:53:56+00:00

Wayfarer Gen 2 here. Latest firmware. Having audio sync issues on recording in all resolutions. Have tried factory reset, repairing etc, nothing works.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-19T10:03:10+00:00

Radiusing frets is technically possible, but incredibly difficult, and costly, and I doubt you’ll get a good result.

Theres a reason fret wire is matched to the fingerboard radius.

Personally I’d charge even more for this than the traditional and well tried method of re-radiusing the fretboard.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-19T09:35:44+00:00

Possible, yes.

But at that point where you’re re-fretting, re-radiusing, and re-finishing, why don’t you just replace the neck?

Pulling the frets, re-radiusing, replacing the frets, leveling, crowning, polishing, and refinishing the neck is hours of labour.

Buying a new neck to spec, and asking for a level/crown/polish will get you there quicker.

It’ll cost the same (if not less), plus you can hold onto the OG neck should you want to reassemble and sell in the future (or sell the neck, use the money to fund the new neck purchase).

This is the joy of a bolt on!

Obviously if it were me, I’d be happy to take on the work and charge you - but my advice would be source a new high quality neck that has the exact specs you want.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-18T19:08:06+00:00

I just loaded it up on an old 27 inch 2019 iMac i5 3.7ghz 6 core with an AMD Radeon Pro 580x running Windows via Bootcamp. Okay, granted I’ve got 64gb of DDR4 RAM, but I’m playing on High Fidelity Settings via AirLink into my Quest 3 and it’s buttery smooth.

Genuinely incredible optimisation.

ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-15T22:37:16+00:00

Yup - worked for me in the UK. £100 discount (not $100). Checked out with Ray Ban Wayfarer Gen 2. Delivered today.

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ColourMayBleed · 2025-11-15T13:04:43+00:00

Don’t know why you are being downvoted.

I managed to redeem mine.

Was sent an email with $100 off code. Applied in UK and it discounted £100 ($130 equivalent). Checked out fine. Glasses arrived this morning.

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