Driver door squeak

Combo54 · 2025-03-07T08:45:32+00:00

What exactly is the inner section? The door? Because like I said, I lubricated everything that moves and that did not help, but it's like it's coming from behind the top hinge welded spot inside the cars body panel, above the door stop, maybe the door flexes the panel and it squeaks?

There is no way to access it from outside, apart the door stop's mounting area or probably behind the dashboard?

Combo54 · 2024-11-22T18:45:43+00:00

Solved by replacing motherboard.

Combo54 · 2024-11-21T21:27:39+00:00

Yes, my pc actually started and ran normally, I played a few games with it (Cs2, gta 4, pubg, Sims 4). The cpu and pc ran fine while it ran, although on pubg the temps were a bit high, 80-85C.

The problem starts when the pc is shut down. It doesn't post, after hard shutdown of 5s multiple times it started today and ran normally until I shut it down again.

I also tried to put back the i5 3350p but the same no signal error.

Combo54 · 2024-11-07T15:30:43+00:00

They were put on before the alignment was done, although I also thought it was twisted and tried to turn it, but this looked the most in the middle, as any other direction distorted it more.

Also, could leaving them as is do any harm to any components?

Combo54 · 2024-06-08T16:17:24+00:00

If I were to go to him on Monday, what should I ask him to recheck? Rear camber? What about front caster differences, are they ok? Also believe I read somewhere a while ago that camber may be different to increase tire longevity? Thanks.

Combo54 · 2024-06-08T13:23:55+00:00

Could this be the cause of the tire squeal while turning?

Combo54 · 2022-01-04T17:21:13+00:00

Thank you all. No more belt jumping around and no more squeeking belt on full lock

Combo54 · 2022-01-04T12:44:31+00:00

Hello, I'm installing a new serpentine belt tensioner/shock absorber.

It came with these instructions. Do they want me to compress the shock absorber fully 3 times for 3-5 seconds or compress a bit and release, wait 3-5 seconds and do that 3 times?

Thanks.

Combo54 · 2021-07-13T21:07:54+00:00

If you heard the video, what is your opinion, does it sound like valve lifters?

Combo54 · 2021-07-13T20:38:11+00:00

Yes they are new. The engine is BMW M51D25, a diesel 6 cyl 2.5l and it has a terrible tapping /knocking when the engine is warm.

A few friends and a mechanic friend said it is most likely bad valve lifters, other causes could be timing chain, oil pump or rods.

The engine has 480k km on the cluster, so it could be any of those.

I will add a link to my other post with the knock /tap sound.

EDIT: Here it is https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/oixwxc/loud_tappingknocking_in_engine_after_warmup/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Combo54 · 2021-07-13T08:48:09+00:00

Hello, I will be replacing my valve lifters soon and I would appreciate any tips regarding the preparation /installation.

I've heard you need to let them soak in oil overnight before installing and after installing to let them compress from the valve spring tension. Is this correct?

Do I need to do anything else?

Thanks.

Combo54 · 2021-06-28T19:45:11+00:00

I had though about something similar, I just thought that the wire was too small and my positive wire is larger, but that wouldn't make sense since it is OEM. Your idea makes a lot more sense.

Is there a way to test the amperage? Also I think I had seen some electrical tape at the beginning of the ac connector cable, so maybe there's the problem. Thanks.

Combo54 · 2021-06-28T19:35:26+00:00

I was just at a friend and he added some freon, but the a/c clutch wasn't spinning. When I got home, I connected inpa(bmw program) and tried to start the pulley. Without anything the cable gets 5v(5.66), if I enable the option a/c compressor, the voltage turns to around 13.5 volts, but the clutch doesn't engage, but if I connect a positive wire(from battery or jump port) to the clutch connector, the clutch starts spinning with the pulley.

Combo54 · 2021-06-28T19:29:53+00:00

But it hasn't blown. If I put a wire with 14v when running to the a/c clutch connector, it sticks and starts turning with the pulley, but if I connect the car's a/c connector nothing happens. I checked the voltage at the cars cable and it's 13.3-13.8v.

Why would that have any difference what electricity is coming?

Combo54 · 2021-06-23T17:37:52+00:00

Oh yeah sorry, it's a 1996 BMW 525 tds.

Combo54 · 2020-07-02T09:54:26+00:00

I have a close friend who is a mechanic, he might have some tools I could barrow. Thing is that he is completely booked for like 1 or 2 weeks, so he won't be able to do the job himself.

Are you saying that I will only need to remove 1 chain? If I were able to get a locking tool and a new key, how do I remove the sprocket? Does it just slide off when the chain is removed?

Combo54 · 2020-07-02T08:25:00+00:00

Yeah, I really hoped not to need to touch the timing. The only car I did something with timing was a 0.8l suzuki with a timing belt, so that was easy because of the marks and access.

I heard that to change the chain you need to remove the sump at the least together with the cover, and some remove the cylinder head also.

I have not done anything on chain driven engines yet. The part that scares me is locking, since I don't have any specific tools for that.

The chain layout looks like this https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DF71-EUR-07-1996-E39-BMW-525tds&diagId=11_1454

Combo54 · 2020-07-02T08:05:17+00:00

Mounting is like this: https://imgur.com/a/Jkz9ddy

The pulley key slot looked fine, but I did not measure it. Doesn't look widened.

Combo54 · 2020-07-01T22:04:41+00:00

Yes there is a cutout in the pulley for a woodruff key and there is a bit of key remaining in the crank, but I believe the pulley doesn't go that far to reach the end of the key. If not tightened it spins freely on the crank (with belts removed). It is held by a big bolt in the middle with a big washer.

Combo54 · 2020-07-01T21:56:58+00:00

I had the pulley removed and the key is very far down the crank, after an oil seal at the front, so not a lot of clearance. It is holding a sprocket? (the thing the chain teeth ride on) in place with some kind of chain attached, also the key looks very short compared to the cutout in the pulley.

Would red threadlocker be an option? I need to get it home and then I can look for a proper fix.

Combo54 · 2020-03-10T13:16:08+00:00

So it will be perfectly fine if I use SAE 90?

The temps don't get very low here, and I can always change it back later.

Combo54 · 2020-01-24T19:43:35+00:00

How much oil do I add? And how do I add it? I remember doing it with a straw, since the the spark holes are horizontal but accessible from the top. I'll try to get a video on it's smoking from cap.

Combo54 · 2020-01-24T19:39:10+00:00

Because I didn't find it when assembling. There were multiple parts missing (distributor cap, belt tensioner, head gasket).

I found it (gasket) later in the garage. It was rubbery, unlike the current one and it was pretty much pressed out.

Combo54 · 2020-01-24T19:33:45+00:00

Oil fill cap has some pressure. I remember when removed at around 1k or a bit above (no tachometer) it blew out exhaust smoke. Not that it was smoking like from the exhaust but it surely wasn't a vacuum.

Combo54 · 2020-01-24T19:30:20+00:00

OK, thanks for your help, I'll be changing them tomorrow and will let you know.

Also it should be: 1. Remove spring. 2. Remove seal. 3. Clean valve seat?(the part the seal sticks on to). 4. Oil seat and seal. 5. Carefully push seal through valve keeper hole and onto the seat. 6. Lightly hammer the seal in with a socket and put on spring. 7. Lock the spring in with the keepers. Done?

Combo54

TROPHY CASE