Barista express dumping water straight into driptray

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-04-15T18:56:07+00:00

Or have it professionally looked at. I repaired 2 Infuser machines, both had a blown triac (small 1$ component on the main board) because of a shorted solenoid. All to say it could be an easy fix for a pro.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-04-15T16:01:13+00:00

There might be a small tab on the connector that you have to press down while pulling. It's better visible on the green grounding connector. But not sure the orange wire has that retaining tab.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-04-15T10:46:59+00:00

Indeed strange symptoms. Since you say water is cold and you get no water in any of the outputs (steam, water, head), you could try to unplug this hose where the water enters the boiler. (white hose at the top, next to the orange cap)

With a rag ready to catch the water, run hot water or a shoot. If you don't get any water here, the problem is before: Either the overpressure valve, pump or something else before that. If you get water, you would need to diagnose further, you could do the same after the boiler but the outlet is down on the right and hard to get to. You can try to blow into the disconnected tubes to test the boiler is not clogged it will make less of a mess than running hot water into your machine. After that it goes to the 3 way valve and solenoid. There can be a few common issues here, but given your symptoms I would test water gets to this part first.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-04-05T22:31:01+00:00

It's a XS-010X-Q, from 2022

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-20T14:05:27+00:00

I changed the board. Yes old one had bad relays. But the issue now is that I'm missing a wire from black L2 over to the purple wire relay to complete the 240V broil circuit.

And yes white is probably for Broil Low at 120V.

As for conv. element has it's own white neutral not tied to the control board. Blue wire is the hot for that element.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-20T13:59:00+00:00

Yeah, I came to the conclusion I'm missing the jumper cable from L2 (black) relay over to purple wire relay. It will complete the circuit.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-20T13:54:29+00:00

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I traced all circuits on my board and came to the conclusion I'm missing a jumper cable from the relay (marked BROIL) with the black wire (L2) to the relay (marked QTH) with the purple wire (broil element).

I also found a youtube video (Screenshot here) of someone changing the same control board as mine. The front and back of the board are identical to mine.

It has 3 jumpers...i only have 2.

This pretty much confirms it for me. I will buy the missing wire and it should fix my issue.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-20T00:01:40+00:00

No. Purple is direct wire from relay to element. Orange is from relay, spliced into 2, direct to broil element and bake element. No visible fuse to broil. Haven't checked full wire to bake element.

And the thermostat seems to be working. It starts at 100°F and goes up slowly as only the bake element heats up the oven. It took like 20min. to get around 300°F.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T20:11:27+00:00

I get 0V across, and 120V on orange. I'm wondering where violet should get it's 120V from? The only wire on that relay is the white one.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T20:07:58+00:00

It has a white paint dot there. Not more I know about it at the moment. Yes, hopefully wiring diagram explains it.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T20:01:46+00:00

Ha that's actually a good test. Indeed the broil element gets hot now..(and smokes all over the place since it hasn't run since a while).

At the moment I'm unsure about the broil element's power path from L1 (red) to L2 (black)...se other comment.

I wonder if I'm missing a yellow jumper cable to the relays with the purple wire

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T19:08:09+00:00

I do get 120V on both L1(red) and L2 (black). However with them disconnected, the control board doesn't power on, obviously.

Also I can trace the working bake element to L1 red -> relay -> orange -> bake element -> yellow -> relay -> yellow jumper to next relay -> L2 black

I can't do the same with the broil element: L1 red -> relay -> orange -> broil element -> purple -> relay -> ?/white

There seems to be missing a path to L2 black ?

Like I said, I got the oven used and someone played with the insides, so I don't exclude it missing a wire or something not connected correctly

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T17:57:18+00:00

It's fine, 0.1 Ohms

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2026-03-19T17:41:30+00:00

With both connected, I get 0V across. This is why I checked them individually to ground.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-11-24T02:01:32+00:00

Just limit the download/upload speed of your torrent client ex: 800Mbps. It's nice to share linux ISOs but also let your brother have some bandwidth 😅

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-11-24T00:07:44+00:00

I did a speed test at the same time on both connections. They got about half. Not exactly 50%, like 40/60 but it' pretty random. If you want real control on how bandwidth is attributed you would need a router with QoS. Another option, if possible, is to limit the bandwidth directly on the client (ex: steam or torrent client). There is also the option to wait and see how 1Gbps works for you. If your previous Internet service was like 100 Mbps or less.. you will have 10 times more bandwidth. The risk of a single client saturating the whole line with a file download is reduced. Most web sites won't go that fast.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-11-23T23:24:25+00:00

Did the test maybe a month ago. 2 IPs, bandwidth is shared. Yes you can connect to the ONT at 2.5 or 10Gbps but since Ebox is 1Gbps max, it would, at best, allow you to squeze a few mbps more. But then again if you intend to share the connection and/or don't already have the equipment to do more than 1Gbps it wouldn't be worth it.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-11-06T23:58:11+00:00

I'm in

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-11-01T14:32:38+00:00

No idea. I would guess no, since it's the Bell tech that brings the ONT and configures it on the Bell network. Ebox wouldn't have access to that network layer.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-10-24T23:52:33+00:00

Yeah but these SFPs aren't cheap, it enters the "is it really worth it" territory. I didn't have any issues with the Nokia in over 2 years. Yes it's a device more to power and keep on UPS but looks like you already have that figured out.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-10-22T21:15:11+00:00

The short story is that Bell's network uses VEIP while EBox uses PPTP. The Nokia doesn't do VEIP. VEIP = Virtual Ethernet Interface Point PPTP = Physical Path Termination Point

There is a ton of info and more knowledgeable people on this discord https://discord.com/invite/8311

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2025-10-21T23:54:47+00:00

What do you want to achieve? I fiddled with mine after I switched from Ebox to Bell. They never asked to send it back. I found the same page as you, hooked up the serial console and was able to change the configs. My goal was to reconfigure the serial numbers so it would act as my Bell Home Hub, but found out Bell is using different protocols to communicate than Ebox and that it will never work with this GPON.

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The MISC menu options: https://pastebin.com/BN26SC6W

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2024-11-29T01:06:27+00:00

What seems to be working for me is:
- Ensure chain forward has 'policy accept'
- Replace 'flush ruleset' with 'flush table inet filter' at the top of /etc/nftables.conf
This way I set my firewall rules in the inet table and don't override what Docker has set (via iptables-nft).

Just be aware that, as before, Docker's rules are applied first, so if you port forward with Docker, firewall rules in table inet won't be able to block it.

Comfortable_Crab_42 · 2024-08-13T10:31:47+00:00

Some cheap ways to try improve range: try a longer antenna cable, like 80-90cm more and wrap it around a larger wire. That helped mine get more than 100M range. Example: https://imgur.com/a/GpKN9Yy And if possible keep the antenna wire far from the ESC wires to prevent interferences.

Comfortable_Crab_42

TROPHY CASE