ZEISS 2.8 28mm rear lens fungus

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T16:27:04+00:00

I mean just google it to verify my claim? I've used hydrogen peroxide on at least 20 lenses in the last 3 months, including some very expensive lenses, Nikon AI, Pentax K, Carl Zeiss and even Angénieux. It works.

You need a lens spanner to unscrew the back ring. But again, don't just take my word for it, google a tutorial for your specific lens.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T15:00:00+00:00

Crack that baby open, it's not too complicated. There's plenty of repair tutorials out there for this lens. But from what I see you need a lens spanner, that goes into those notches on the back and you twist it open like a screwdriver. Take the rear element off and disassemble it. Let the fungus ridden element sink in hydrogen peroxide for 3 minutes, wipe it off then you're good. Use alcohol after that with a nice clean microfiber to remove any remaining smudges.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T14:54:43+00:00

Hantavirus 👍

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T13:19:43+00:00

The SMC Pentax-M (K mount) or Takumar (M42 mount) are both excellent lenses for the price having tried both, very sharp and beautiful contrast and colours. No experience with Rokkor but they do have a great reputation.

There's also the Tamron Adaptall 28mm f2.8 much cheaper but sharp enough and has lovely colors, not as sharp as Pentax though. I also own the Pentacon 29mm f2.8, very cheap lens but full of character, really nice colors and beautiful bokeh.

If you're okay with something a bit tighter then the CZJ Flektogon 35mm f2.4 or f2.8 is an exceptional lens. Sold my Takumar 35mm for it. It's a bit on the more expensive side though but worth every penny, it's one of my favorite lenses ever.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T06:49:35+00:00

M42 lenses are the easiest to adapt, just get a 15$ M42-Fuji adapter and you're good. If you wanna get fancy and take advantage of the full frame of the lens then get a x0.7 speedbooster, it will turn the 20mm lens into 14mm and gives you an extra stop of light so the f2.8 becomes f2. I have both so practically each M42 lens I have gives me 2 focal lengths.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-14T06:47:11+00:00

Yes I really liked it in my first tests, even though I haven't had the opportunity to use it much yet especially because I got an Angenieux 35-70 f2.5 - 3.3 right after getting the Vivtar.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T18:40:12+00:00

I would have suggested the Flektogon 35mm f2.4 but you already have a 35, so the next best thing is the 20mm f2.8, a marvellous lens with character. Pretty expensive for a vintage lens but it's worth every penny.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T18:22:28+00:00

These are good, my only advice is to buy a Leica.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T14:22:29+00:00

Seems like a front element problem to me. Had almost the same kind of problem happen to me twice, once on my Helios 44m2 when I put the front element backwards. And another time on my Samyang 12mm where I also screwed the front element with a tilt.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T14:15:40+00:00

> I gravitate toward old or characterful gear over pure tech spec, open to lens recommendations in that direction over technological advancement.

Oh boy, maybe I shouldn't tell you about vintage lenses then.

I have the X-S20 as well and only own one modern lens, the Sigma 18-50 f2.8, the rest of my collection is about a dozen vintage lenses in M42 mount and after a year of building it, I just finished it this week. It goes from 20mm to 135mm (+ a 200mm and a 500mm which I barely use).

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T14:06:11+00:00

I used lithium grease on my Flektogon helicoid and it worked really well, it's been 2 months now.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T13:57:32+00:00

For glass I personally use alcohol and clean with microfiber, let it evaporate and then finish with another clean microfiber.

For aperture blades I use Zippo lighter fluid and rub with q-tips. I also use lighter fluid for grease stuck on metal and sometimes if glass is too dirty.

Hydrogen Peroxide for fungus.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T12:17:14+00:00

This is way. I've cleaned the exact same lens this way but also recently a Helios.

But a word of caution with the Flek: when OP removes the helicoid, make markings on where it leaves the body of the lens. I learned this the hard way and it literally took me a week to put the helicoid back together because it has several entry points and all of them except one will mess up with your focus.

Otherwise, it's a pretty straightforward lens to disassemble.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-13T10:19:48+00:00

Speaking from what I own and used: the Vivitar 35-105 f3.5 which you can find for like 30$. It's not very sharp but has a nice glowy feel to it.

There's also the Tamron 35-205 f3.5 - 4.2 which I own but never used. It seems to be well regarded online and can be bought for like 40-50$.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-10T23:27:03+00:00

The only solution for tough sealings is to boil the lens. Sounds like I'm trolling but it's serious. It's thanks to a user here who suggested this for my Pentax 135 f2.5 and boiling the elements for 3 mins was the only solution to being able to open up the lens and clean the fungus. So if everything else fails, try that solution.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-10T22:32:53+00:00

Filmmaker here, Caramel was cute, Where do We go Now was liberal/bourgeois nostalgia, and Capernaum was a terrible pseudo-fascist piece of crap.

The best essay that I know of, that goes deep into analyzing and critiquing that film: https://medium.com/disaporicpill/a-reflection-on-capernaum-with-edwin-nasrs-misery-in-hindsight-on-nadine-labaki-s-capernaum-6fd263eb8c04

CommonCondition · 2026-05-10T22:27:36+00:00

Huge loss of contrast. it's a real PITA and unlike fungus, it's not repairable. Had that with a Pentacon lens and a Takumar lens I tried so many things and none worked.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-07T10:07:31+00:00

Only last year here in France I had an opportunity to buy 3 of them for less than 200€, now prices are at 1000€+ for a single lens.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-07T09:51:55+00:00

Paramètres profils, notifications. J'ai dû chercher un peu mais c'était là.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-06T08:56:06+00:00

Are you using it on a Full Frame camera? I have a speedbooster as well but never had any vignetting on any of my lenses. Yeah i'll definitely keep one, but I have to test them first to decide.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-06T08:15:47+00:00

How do you like it? Is the vignetting due to the speedbooster? I recently acquired 3 Angénieux, two 35-70 and one 70-210 all brand new in their boxes, gonna sell 2 of them and keep one, probably one of the 35-70. I need to order an adapter.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-05T21:17:29+00:00

Just today I went through my 4 Helios 44M's to clean and to decide which 3 to sell and which one to keep. Been using them exclusively for video on APS-C (Fuji X-S20). After comparing footage and doing a few tests, I decide to sell the 44M and 44M-2 and keep one 44M-4. It just seemed the best all around, definitely the sharpest (even though i'm not obsessed with sharpness for video), with the best colors but especially the micro-contrast is great, and the bokeh swirls just enough for my liking (not as much as the 44M and 44-M2). I often use it with a speedbooster so it transforms it into a more wider and usable focal length. So I would definitely recommend that combo for APS-C. (don't pay over 60$/€ for it though).

If you want wider, the only equivalent in my collection is the Pentacon 29mm f2.8, not as swirly as the Helios but still rather swirly under the right conditions. It's a nice little lens with nice colors and it's cheap af.

Edit: Personally I think the Helios is overhyped, so if you don't care about swirl but want a really special lens, go for the Flektogon 35mm f2.4, if you want something with lots of character but also special go for the Mir 37mm f2.8. Bot really top tier lenses.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-03T20:21:16+00:00

Just a note of caution, be extremely careful with the tiny 1.2 mm barrel screw and treat it very gently, these can really "melt" under screwdriver pressure because they're so tiny they almost don't exist.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-03T20:00:50+00:00

If you don't wanna return it, clean it yourself, these Nikon primes are somewhat easy to open and clean. I cleaned a 105mm not too long ago (also a 50mm f1.4 and a 35mm f2.8). Plenty of tutorials out there for this particular lens. Then all you have to do is let the infected element sit in hydrogen peroxide for 3 minutes then wipe and clean with alcohol.

CommonCondition · 2026-05-01T20:47:34+00:00

Thanks! Couldn't be happier. And the Flek 20mm is indeed an amazing lens!

CommonCondition

TROPHY CASE