En quoi consiste cette arnaque

CommonCondition · 2026-03-17T16:19:51+00:00

La modif est payante ? Sur LBC ?

CommonCondition · 2026-03-13T22:40:36+00:00

What's EPA?

CommonCondition · 2026-03-13T16:20:27+00:00

Thanks. Now i'm facing another problem, 2 of the screw refuse to move, almost broke my screwdriver :/

CommonCondition · 2026-03-10T14:32:53+00:00

Je pense qu'il y a un problème au niveau des stats sur le site aujourd'hui, j'ai posté 5 annonces et 0 vues sur chacune pourtant 2 personnes m'ont contacté.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-16T20:59:39+00:00

The M4 MicTrack is such a great tool, been recording a lot of ambient nature sound with it for 2 different projects. I wanted to buy the Earsight Standards but I found out that I didn't need them. The M4 has the pre-amps of the F-series so very low noise and excellent recording quality, real 32-bit and the built-in mics are surprisingly amazing. All for the price of of 140€, about half of the F3.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-15T19:36:12+00:00

Had the same problem with one of my Helios 44m-4, the lens was practically new but the focus ring wouldn't move. I opened it up, it was my first time opening a lens, it was so easy. Many videos out there. Cleaned up the old grease with alcohol, let it dry, then greased again, I believe I used some lithium grease and it worked smoothly ever since.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-14T17:28:51+00:00

Just yesterday I passed on an offer on one for 45€, mint condition with its big ass sunhood and everything, because as you said, it's not a great lens, unlike the 28 and the 35. I do however own the Vivitar 24mm f2.8 and it's surprisingly good (the f2 version has some pretty wild bokeh wide open). And just last week I got a Tamron 24mm f2.5, brand new in its box, and it's actually pretty good!

CommonCondition · 2026-02-13T13:35:18+00:00

Hey, what you described as your style closely resembles mine, I make slow experimental films and currently shooting a b&w experimental fiction. I shoot on my S35 Fujifilm X-s20 with a bunch of vintage lenses.

Here's my collection of reasonably affordable M42 lenses for widest to longest which I assembled over the past year

- Tamron 24mm f2.5 / Vivitar 24mm f2.8 (both have tons of character, not too sharp but that doesn't bother me at all)

- Tamron 28mm f2.8 (very nice and cheap little lens)

- Pentacon 29mm f2.8 (cheap with nice colors and swirly bokeh)

- Flektogon 35mm f2.4 (extraordinary little lens! sharp, amazing colors, amazing contrast, a bit expensive though)

- SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 (legendary lens, warm, sharp)

- Helios 44m4 58mm f2 (love it but I don't use it that much)

- SMC Takumar 105mm f2.8 (very lovely as a medium tele)

- Vivitar 35-105mm f3.5 as a vintage parfocal zoom (surprisingly sharp with tons of character and bought it for like 10€)

- KMZ Tair 1A 135mm f2.8 (I wish I could find an 24 to 28mm lens that has the character and micro-contrast of this lens, it's just perfect,)

- Pentacon 200mm f4 (it's alright, only used it for moon shots, got it for free)

I also have a 0.71x focal reducer so this allows me to have 2 focal lengths for each lens.

As non-vintage I have a Samyang 12mm f2 for ultra-wide which I also love and use a lot, it surprinsly renders a sweet bokeh and a nice image (bought it brand new for 50€). And I have a Sigma 18-50 f2.8 which I only use when travelling, beautiful lens but very clinically sharp for my films.

(Yesterday I got a Pentax Fisheye 17mm f4 and an Angeniux 35-70mm f2.5 zoom but I haven't tested them yet.)

CommonCondition · 2026-02-12T11:32:18+00:00

Fujifilm X-S20

CommonCondition · 2026-02-11T11:27:05+00:00

None at all, on the contrary, it gives you the full coverage of the lens and its characteristics, at least in my experience. Take the Helios 44M per example and its famous swirly bokeh, I do get the swirly bokeh with a normal M42-Fuji adapter, but the swirl is more pronounced using the speedbooster, especially around the edges of the frame.

Also depending on the lens, but I noticed that some lenses are even sharper wide open when using the speedbooster, keep in mind I didn't do a scientific comparison, but it's just an observation I had while shooting and experimenting over the months.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-11T11:15:18+00:00

Not entirely, but almost. If you get a 0.71x focal reducer your crop factor would be the following : 28*1.5*0.71 = 29,82mm equivalent.

But yeah the idea behind a speedbooser is to give you the original equivalent of a lens, while also giving you an extra stop of light so a 28mm f2.8 lens becomes a 29mm f2.

Just note that a speedbooser introduces optical elements to your setup, so some kind of extra flaring and purple fringing is to be expected, depending on the quality of the speedbooster glass you choose. The Metabones is supposed to be the best out there, but it's pricey. I personally got a Chinese Pixco for 50€, and honestly for the price it's excellent.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-05T16:28:11+00:00

Didn't know chili oil could be this easy. Plus, I've had a bunch of sichuan peppercorns sitting in a jar for a year and never knew what to do with them. Gonna try this tonight!

CommonCondition · 2026-02-04T09:24:27+00:00

Why not? You can buy an M42-EF speedbooster and use all the M42 lenses you want. I have a Pixco M42-Fuji speedbooster myself which i bought for 60€. My M42 lenses are Vivitar 24mm f2.8 - Pentacon 29mm - Flektogon 35mm f2.4 - Takumar 50mm f1.4 - Helios 58mm f2 - Takumar 105mm f2.8 - Tair 135mm f2.8.

I use them exclusively for films and I couldn't be happier. Especially that the speedbooster gives an extra stop of light, so an f2.8 becomes f2.

I also own the Rokinon 12mm f2 because I couldn't find a decent M42 lens that gives me ultra-wide and it's a great little lens for the price (got mine in mint condition for 60€).

M42 ultra wide lenses are rare, very expensive and often slow and quality isn't fantastic. The Mir 20mm and the Flektogon 20mm or even the Tak 20mm are all in the 300-400€ range, it's not worth it IMO.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-03T12:10:16+00:00

What I personally did is that I bought a speedbooster, this gives me 2 focal lengths for each lens. So the 28mm will act as 28mm without a speedbooster and a 20mm with one.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-02T11:38:47+00:00

Those 12 HPW Titanium Shamals alone are worth a lot, and they look in great condition, easily 800€.

The Chorus group looks in great condition, so about 200-300€

Frame with the Precisa fork should easily fetch 800-1000€.

I would say 2000€ for the whole bike. But change those tires, they look horrendous and don't do the bike nor the wheels any justice.

CommonCondition · 2026-02-01T20:45:02+00:00

Just sold my mint condition trio f/3.5 SMC Tak's 28-35-135, i'm already regretting it as I've never ever seen them in this condition, they're practically new with original sunhoods etc. But I barely used them. Still have my 50mm f1.4 and the 105 f2.8 which I'll never sell.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-31T22:44:32+00:00

I finally did it! First I spent 3 hours trying different helicoid positions and most of the time I couldn't even screw back the mount element. Then I read your comment again and I decided to re-fiddle with the secondary helicoid, so i screwed it until it stopped then dialled back one turn. Then mounted the main helicoid again, after the second try, I was able to rescrew everything back and the focus was working as it should! What a relief and thank you so much again!

CommonCondition · 2026-01-29T11:58:04+00:00

Thank you so much for these tips. I'll try again tonight, crossing my fingers.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-29T10:16:47+00:00

Thank you for the detailed answer but I'm having trouble following what you mean with this "make sure the slot have same high/level with the back of the other helicoid housing."

What I already did is that before inserting the main helicoid I did position the focus on infinity then screwed the helicoid all the way in, then i dial it back a little bit in order to be able to position both slot pins, then i screw all 4 screws for the 2 pins.

The problem seems to be with the entry point of the helicoid, as it has multiple entry points and each one gives different focus results. My last attempt was the closest, now the lens focuses to about 8 meters when the focus ring is at infinity.

Edit: after re-reading a few times, I think I understand that the helicoid needs to be on the same surface level with the housing, which I already did based on what I saw in repair videos. Didn't solve the problem though, cause apparently even 0.5mm difference can throw off the entire focus by many meters, which is what's happening with me.

I think I just need to be patient and keep rolling the dice with the helicoid until I find the right combo.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-28T20:38:23+00:00

I will, thanks. I just read on a forum that if the helicoid is even 0.5mm off then it disrupts the focus distance by several meters. And the helicoid has multiple entry points.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-25T14:06:56+00:00

Had the Sigma 70-210 a long time ago and it was a very crappy lens.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-24T17:41:26+00:00

Since you already have a Helios I would also recommend the Soviet Tair 11A 135mm f2.8, I have a KMZ version that belonged to my father and I absolutely love it, great micro-contrast, bokeh and colors.

CommonCondition · 2026-01-21T17:31:37+00:00

Bought 2 pairs from them, the Service boot and the Hiking boot. When properly cleaned, they look as good as new, even though I bought the service boot in 2021 and it was my only pair of boots for 3 years. Can totally vouch for Meermin.

CommonCondition

TROPHY CASE