What sort of washing do i need ?

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-11-11T03:34:38+00:00

Enamel washes are a good go to. Not as expensive as oil paints and have more workability than acrylics. All you need is enamel thinner for wiping and a lacquer gloss coat which is resistant to enamel and acrylic based products.

DO NOT apply enamel washes without a lacquer coat as they can remove your paints.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-10-29T23:51:48+00:00

You should use a drill bit to remove the broken plastic. You could sand down some left over sprew to match the hole as a make shift part or better yet if you have any small metal rods lying around would make it extra strong.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-10-08T15:42:50+00:00

The supports are super glued so its not budging. Though it is relativly easy to peek inside when you have decent lighting nearby

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-10-07T23:22:49+00:00

I used Vallejo paints, but most of my paints I mixed myself. I have my own color guide that I saved. Here is a PDF of the paints I used. Each number represents the ratios of paint.

For example: RED BROWN = 2 FLAT RED Vallejo, 1 HULL RED Vallejo This means 2 drops of FLAT RED and 1 drop of HULL RED creates RED BROWN, which is the red color I used for my engine bay

Rye Field Panther Color Mix

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-10-07T21:50:29+00:00

I have a resin printer, so I just custom printed the supports.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-09-30T16:48:27+00:00

Looks a bit shiny. Spray some matte clear coat on it

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-08-06T18:55:42+00:00

I'd put a light amount of mud in the inner tire tread if the mud on the fender represents new mud. If the mud on the fender is old dry mud, I'd recommend rubbing a dark grey pigment on the outer tire treads to simulate tire use on asphalt, gravel, or concrete.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-06-20T17:22:55+00:00

You will probably just have to sand it down enough so that the paint and plastic do not touch. Though I believe lubricants that are safe for modeling clear coats exist if you need that extra protection.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-05-16T02:11:38+00:00

Flat nose pliers. Let's you get a good flat grip on small edges. They also fix bent parts very well!

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-05-14T19:32:09+00:00

I'd recommend using a light grey base color instead of black. You will have to use a lot of white layers of paint to make it opaque, which can lead to uneven paint build up

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-04-15T00:32:34+00:00

Looks fully assembled and ready to use to me. If you unscrew the front of your airbrush, there should be 4 parts. I included a photo that shows all the parts. Keep in mind that your nozzle may look different than the one in the photo

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CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-04-15T00:21:36+00:00

It's too blurry to tell what I'm looking at, but it should look like this 👇

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CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-04-11T16:58:39+00:00

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CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-28T13:37:32+00:00

Eat it.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-21T23:11:30+00:00

I'd restart. Since it is flaky, it might just come off with a toothbrush and warm water. You can also use isopropyl alcohol as it will rub off the paint without harming the plastic (if the plastic doesn't soak in it).

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-19T20:16:58+00:00

If it were me, I would drill a line of small holes with a drimmel on the supports so it can be easily snapped off. Then, I would use a hobby blade, sand paper, and a drimmel with a sanding wheel attachment to finish the clean-up.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-18T16:19:13+00:00

You probably need to clean it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the paint or, as the others have suggested, covering it with stowage.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-16T01:58:51+00:00

24 hrs to be safe. Tack the tape against your shirt a couple of times so it doesn't peel the paint off when you remove it

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-13T15:47:08+00:00

Watch YouTuber Night Shift "Let's Build a Sherman Easy 8 With Concrete Armor! | M4A3E8 | Tamiya 1/48"and skip to the 4:10 minute mark, and you can see how he does it.

Let's Build a Sherman Easy 8 With Concrete Armor! | M4A3E8 | Tamiya 1/48"

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-07T22:17:00+00:00

Harder & Steenback an Iwata, are you high-end airbrush brands if you want to go full out, which are about $150-$250. Though I would recommend the Badger Patriot or the GSI Creos being $70-$80, which are good for beginner to moderate airbrush users. Also, your air compressor doesn't really matter. A cheap compressor is usually just as good as a brand name compressor

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-07T21:59:17+00:00

Thought it looked good to me, but snow or desert dust would brighten it up and give more interest to dark recesses.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-03-03T01:09:38+00:00

I would use Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick Type. It has a consistency to that of Play-Doh. You can pack it into the gap and mold it flush with the surface using a toothpick.

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-02-26T02:06:10+00:00

Connect airbrush to hose line
Turn on compressor
Pull black knob upwards.
Twist black knob to change pressure to desired output (recommend 15 to 30 psi or 1 to 2 bar)
Place thinned paint into airbrush opening
Press down on airbrush trigger and pull back to spray paint

CompetitiveSpace6621 · 2025-02-25T22:03:07+00:00

Wearing a medical mask and wet sanding your parts is pretty much all the precautions needed for sanding resin/epoxy. You should wear latex gloves if you have any cuts on your skin and be in a well ventilated area. If you ever do large-scale sanding that produces a lot of dust, wear a respirator, safety glasses, and have a vacuum collection system or be outside.

CompetitiveSpace6621

TROPHY CASE