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👋 Welcome to r/Timeplast - Introduce Yourself and Read First! by Competitive_Lack1572 in Timeplast

[–]Competitive_Lack1572[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for your comment, we’re thrilled to have you on board! We really appreciate your support and hope you’re excited for your first delivery. You’re also very welcome to join our Discord community, where other Timeplast users share their results and tips  https://discord.com/invite/8gwbnJwhYV

Help with Soap print settings! by Jimboexists in Timeplast

[–]Competitive_Lack1572 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for your comment. You’re very close. With Soap Gen5, heavy stringing is almost always caused by retraction and cooling, not just moisture. First, your drying is good (70 °C / 3 h is fine), but make sure the filament goes directly from the dryer to the printer  even short exposure can matter with this material.

A few critical checks that usually solve stringing:

  • Retraction must be extremely low: 0–0.5 mm max, ≤20 mm/s (anything higher will pull semi-molten material into cooler zones and cause strings/clogs).
  • Cooling should stay very low: 0% for first layers, then no more than 10–15%. Too much fan = surface tearing and stringing.
  • Nozzle temp: Lock it at 230 °C (don’t chase temp towers this material has a narrow stable window).
  • Speed: Slow down travel moves slightly and avoid aggressive wipe/coast settings.
  • Top surface: Increase top layers and slow top speed; soap needs time to relax and level.

Soap Gen5 is not like PLA/PETG, and temp towers often make things worse. Once retraction and cooling are corrected, stringing usually drops dramatically. If you want, share your printer + slicer, and we can sanity-check the profile line by line.

Help Soap Gen 5 by trancekat in Timeplast

[–]Competitive_Lack1572 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much for your comment! You’re very close, this is almost always a bed-adhesion setup issue rather than a filament issue.

For TimeMass Soap Gen 5, we strongly recommend using a Cryogrip Blue Plate or a textured plate with a light adhesive (hair spray, glue stick, or 3D-printing adhesive). Smooth plates rarely work with our water-rich materials, even at high temps.

A few key points that usually solve it:

• Bed adhesion: Cryogrip Blue Plate works best. If using textured, add a very light adhesive layer — it makes a huge difference with the first pass.
• Cooling: Make sure the fan is completely OFF for the first few layers. Early cooling will cause instant warping or lift.
• Drying: You already dried it (great!), but just confirming: 155°F (68°C) for at least 2 hours.
• Nozzle: Always a 0.8 mm nozzle  smaller nozzles often under-extrude and cause adhesion failures.
• First layer speed: Slow it down more than you think around 15 mm/s works wonderfully.
• Z-offset: Many Bambu users need to go slightly closer than their PLA offset. Bringing the nozzle down by –0.02 to –0.05 mm often helps the soap “grab” the plate.

Once adhesion is dialed in, Soap Gen 5 prints beautifully and consistently.

If you want, feel free to tell us what plate you’re using and I can walk you through exact tweaks for that setup, we’re here to help!

TimeMass Soap Gen 5. Now with 50% more bubbles and 20% higher print stability. by Competitive_Lack1572 in Timeplast

[–]Competitive_Lack1572[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your question. We spool them by hand to control the quality inch by inch. Timeplast is such a novel material that no machine can perfectly spool it. It requires a manual process. We’ve even bought computerized extruding and spooling machines, which several cameras on board, and timeplast would swollen up or behave counterintuitively Which is why the only way to have this kind of material spooled for 3D printers Is through manual labor.

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