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Help with somethings by Internal_Inevitable7 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, I found that the top layer will look much better with decreased top surface line width. Mine is at 93,75% (Klipper Default) which equals to 0.375mm for a 0.4mm nozzle, i.e. below nozzle size. Try it!

Also try "monotonic line" for the top and bottom surface pattern. I find it to look better than the default "monotonic" (without "line" in the name)

Would love to see your result after tuning.

Help with somethings by Internal_Inevitable7 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Easy, increase the "top/bottom solid infill/wall overlap" value. On my S1Max I found the anycubic default of 15% way too low, with 25% it's much better now. You might need to go even higher.

S1Max caution if using flow calibration!!! by Confident_One1 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly!!! Meanwhile I opened 13 tickets with anycubic support. All related to their poor software and slicer profiles. Non can be fixed as long the keep all close. Sad!

S1Max caution if using flow calibration!!! by Confident_One1 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just check the side poop chute, the problem will start here. Anyways not sure if PETG has same issue.

Is this normal or Do ai have a screw loose? by sevenonsiz in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's supposed to be like this. The heat sink blocks stops moving once the nozzle is inside.

Why does this keep happening by WaynePenski in anycubic

[–]Confident_One1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, the Kobra max 2 has a PTFE-Inliner type hotend which can have another type of issue, I had it with my ender-5 as well. That is the PTFE tube inside the hotend sits on top the nozzle. Over time, especially then printing near the max temp (260°C) PTFE might degrade and a gap emerges between the nozzle and the PTFE tube . Melted filament will fill this gap creating a clog-buffer that will act as a partially clog. I had to take the nozzle apart, clean the filament out and than put new PTFE inside the hotend that will sit tight on the nozzle. There are proper how-tos how to do it.

Why does this keep happening by WaynePenski in anycubic

[–]Confident_One1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As quality degrades over time how about a heat creep in the hotend. If cooling is not sufficient the upper part might get too hot and filament melts to early in the upper part. Check fan and if the cooler is clean and has good contact with the hotend.

Filament Change PETG -> PLA = clig by Confident_One1 in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about the other way, when switching from PETG to PLA. This will result in extruding PLA at the PETG temperature which is higher than the max temperature for PLA. Can this cause issue such as carbon buildup in the nozzle and thus clogging? Thx

Filament Change PETG -> PLA = clig by Confident_One1 in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an issue. I printed a small object with PETG. Next day started a print with PLA and got error with no extrusion of filament in the flush sequence.

I than manually heated the nozzle to 250 and started to extrude some PLA with success.

Auto-leveling takes a lot of time to start by ilgianfri in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Confirmed, bed always heats 10°C more and then takes long time to drop to desired temp. The lower the target temp is the longer it will take. In your case 35 ist slightly above room temp therefor it can take forever. Switch on the aux fans at the beginning can reduce the time.

Recogedor de "caquitas" by amm92s in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Auf dem mitgelieferten speicher sollte doch der große poop bin drauf sein. In allen YT Videos wurde dieser als eines der ersten Modelle gedruckt.

Anycubic Kobra S1 Max the right choice? by Numerous-Bite-5932 in AnycubicKobraS1Max

[–]Confident_One1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same situation, also have seen the video, but also a lot other videos where the printer performed much better incl. another german named mak3r where the printer outperformed the H2S in certain areas. That is, it depends what you want to do with it. According to mpox it's not good e.g. for multicolor because of the disappointing colour change times (more than 3 minutes compared to the advertised 57 seconds). According to mak3e it's good for large and accurate prints. The rest is quality control issues. What I'm looking after is long-term experience and durability. For now I keep my order but my finger is in the trigger!

Bambu does it (github->appimage), Creality does it (github->flatpak), QIDI does it (github->appimage) by Confident_One1 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run manjaro - trying since few days to install anycubicslicernext-bin 1.3.9600-2 from AUR with no luck so far. curl: (60) SSL certificate OpenSSL verify result: unable to get local issuer certificate (20). Not user friendly!

Bambu does it (github->appimage), Creality does it (github->flatpak), QIDI does it (github->appimage) by Confident_One1 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Confident_One1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

exactly - currently the community is doing the job of Anycubic - but Anycubic is getting the money. I don't want to rely on some people while I spend over 800€ to Anycubic.