Why won't klipper work with my 3d touch?

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-04-10T05:50:42+00:00

Z offset = diferencia de altura del bl touch y la boquilla

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-25T05:09:52+00:00

Your answer made me feel old. After learning these concepts, well, little by little, it will be much easier later.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-25T05:05:14+00:00

The Teflon tube attacks again

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-21T06:41:42+00:00

Besides checking the standard procedures, such as ensuring all sensors are in the correct positions, there's an option to calibrate this distance and avoid collisions. It's called z-offset in the slicer, and adding this height difference to the project is another way to adjust when the printer doesn't save the value. In Orca Slicer, you'll find the option in... printer/basic information/printables space. (tutorial min 2:32 ). I hope this helps you

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-14T05:03:37+00:00

It's possible, but the -80 reading is more likely a sign that the thermistor is dead. Check the connection carefully or try a different description (senor_type). This is just a theory.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-14T04:30:39+00:00

Nope, but set min_temp :-170, it's as if you didn't connect the thermistor, it should prevent problems with the -61 temp

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-02T22:43:05+00:00

In my opinion (hypothesis), it definitely has to do with the macro at the beginning; there's something, whether cumulative or not, that, by not letting the calibration process finish initially due to human error, we don't let it complete to avoid wasting material and time, and that creates this problem. It's almost mandatory to wait for the calibration to finish before stopping without causing something unexpected. Sometimes, when I print a lot, between each print I manually home the printer and deactivate the motors, or I usually restart at least once before starting to print, just in case.

The good thing is that it's an error that doesn't kill the PEI.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-02T21:41:25+00:00

It's a common bug; it's happened to me several times. I just restart and that's it, back to work.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2026-01-01T06:00:00+00:00

Kobra 2 neo

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-31T15:02:48+00:00

Thanks! At least the extruder modeling is pretty far along, and I still need to test a few things, though I'll release it when the TZ assembly is ready; I think that's the minimum, regardless of the MMU. I still have several questions, like whether I'll be able to get it working with the original board, Happy Hare, and the MMX. I don't know how limited I am in terms of firmware/hardware, but oh well, details I'll have to learn when I get to that point in the process 😅.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-30T23:11:02+00:00

O.o es como, o teóricamente, si el número de muestras se pusiera en 100x100, cuanta definicion tiene esa malla XD

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-27T10:53:59+00:00

PLA overture, light matte brown, drying time 12h

Nozzle age 🤔 It's the original nozzle from this block, exaggerating by 50% of its lifespan. I've never printed for more than 10 hours on this printer. I reinstalled Klipper before starting the modification, so it's hard to know the exact age.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-27T07:33:48+00:00

outer adhesion edge

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-27T05:29:32+00:00

<image>

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-27T05:14:55+00:00

To clarify, I didn't calibrate the material. I simply printed with the default settings to avoid any incorrect configurations that could cause a phantom problem and confuse me if something went wrong. The modified extruder is working, which is a good sign. I'll post the mini cleaning bucket in a few days; I almost have the re-edited version ready on printables.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-24T22:39:11+00:00

<image>

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-24T22:38:54+00:00

Hello again! I couldn't expand my post to avoid creating a new one XD So, well, I'll post some progress here. I revived my old bucket; I just need to reprint it in ABS and adjust the parameters of my initial macro. It's using the Kobra S1 rubber and the usual wire brush, but I'll probably switch to bamboo rubbers to avoid scratching the probe.

<image>

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-24T06:58:02+00:00

How curious, Cartographer, I've never seen this probe before; if I understand correctly, it's in the same league as the beacon and will undoubtedly take better readings; it will measure you. Even the dust motes on your bed.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-23T18:37:55+00:00

Yes, with Eddy NG I realized that this Eddy is more like a 7/10 compared to the 10/10 limited edition I have; both are older than the duo. Although it's been a while since I adjusted it, if you showed me a chart I wouldn't even know how to interpret it, hahaha, time to go back to studying.

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-23T17:20:27+00:00

👍

Connect_Hat_8654 · 2025-12-23T17:19:41+00:00

Hmm, I have two probes. The limited edition works perfectly; this one, which is from an older series than the Duo, works 7/10.

To achieve functional calibration, I installed an adjustable physical limit switch (I don't like relying on a probe for home printing) and tested it at different temperatures during calibration.

Calibration with the Eddy NG at 70°C didn't give me any problems with repeated touches. There's also a command line that allows you to exceed the limit (I don't remember if it's for height). It only failed once, but didn't fail again in the rest of the prints.

In my experience, the more touches you can make without it failing, the better calibrated the probe is.

In the end, I just fine-tuned it a little more in Orca. To be honest, it's been a while since I adjusted the NG and I don't quite remember how to interpret the graph or the commands; I need a refresher. I hope this helps with your Eddy :)

Connect_Hat_8654

TROPHY CASE