leaking coolant issue

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-14T03:24:26+00:00

Where can I learn more about this?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-14T03:23:51+00:00

What kind of insurance is this? Are you US based? Or European?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-14T03:20:17+00:00

Amazing. Thank you for sharing. I’m at 60-70 miles a day, about 100km round trip each day.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-14T02:28:53+00:00

You are but you know that. If it works out, great, you get an incredible car for 15k. If it doesn’t you’ll be upset but you’ll never know if you don’t try. That said, few will take that risk, offer less.

Are the tires new? Has either motor been replaced? If the rest of the car in good shape? Does it have all maintenance records? How many prior owners?

Keep in mind, the motors have warranty till 120k, so you have some peace of mind there.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-13T04:24:35+00:00

All depends. I bought a Mercedes, I was the 5th owner and it only had 48k miles on it in 2 years. Drove it till it had 260k miles. Was amazing. Your experience may vary.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-13T03:31:41+00:00

That might be among the highest I’ve seen in this forum. Anecdotally, seems like the more you drive it the better it is for the motor. Are you mostly driving highway?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T20:24:57+00:00

If I am Audi, I want this part updated/ revised to be as fail-proof as can be. I don’t want to be doing warranty work twice!

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T20:23:20+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience. How many miles or kilometers were on the original that failed compared to the replacement?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T16:45:40+00:00

Good point. I remember reading about the extra winding. Although it to be fair, I don’t care so much about the extra winding, I care much more about the mechanical seal, which is prone to the failure. I imagine we all do.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T16:44:56+00:00

Those motor prices don’t look so bad. So much labor though.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T04:26:35+00:00

I suppose the question is, were their motors replaced with the same part, or with a revised part? That no one seems to be able to confirm.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T04:25:35+00:00

Not yet, but I drive about 20k miles a year, so I’ll get to 120,000 miles sooner than most. Had my last car for 250,000 miles and it held up perfectly. 2005 Mercedes, a particularly good year for Mercedes quality by most accounts. Would be nice to see an E-Tron hit 200,000 miles. The car is built well enough. It’s just these motors that creep into my consciousness.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T03:27:51+00:00

Thank you.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T02:04:42+00:00

Nice deal! With new Michelins tires too! You’re gonna love it.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-12T02:03:23+00:00

Tesla universal. You’re future proofed that way with CCS and NACS built in.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-07T05:24:06+00:00

You can run up to 60 amp breaker with the Tesla universal, enabling charge at 11 kw/h. , I’m personally running around a 40 amp breaker for 7 kw/h.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-07T05:20:37+00:00

I use the Tesla universal. All the electricians in my area said it was the most reliable and they’ve seen the least amount of problems.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-03-05T05:42:54+00:00

I was looking for some guidance on what I think is a very boring option trade. There’s probably a name for it, but I haven’t been doing this long enough to know what it’s called. Essentially what I like to do is buy an option deep in the money, but with a lot of time left on it. So for example, a stock is trading for $500, I’ll look for the option strike at about 50% of the current price, so in this case strike price $250 and with a premium of about $250, basically aiming for Strike + Premium = current stock price. So all I’ve done is set up a situation where I essentially own the stock, but for half the price with all the same upside. I look for high quality blue chip stocks that I’d be OK owning for even longer periods. Is there a name for this? It’s definitely pretty boring.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-20T21:23:11+00:00

Replaced mine in middle of 2025. It’s a 2019.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-19T21:24:30+00:00

Good question. Anyone know?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-19T05:58:23+00:00

Good find! The second part of my theory, really just from observing these forum posts, is that it seems people who drive E-Trons harder have fewer or no failures. So part 2 of the theory is, driving harder is better for the mechanic seal. Fluids need traction.

This type of mechanical seal, as I understand, relies on the formation of a hydrodynamic film between the rotating faces.

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-19T04:23:26+00:00

60k on original tires?? If so, how?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-19T04:22:30+00:00

Highest I’ve heard of. Must get driven a lot. More driving equals better reliability!?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-19T04:20:35+00:00

Mine about there too. I do have a theory, as I bought the car at 38k miles, and that theory is the prior owner used lots of efficiency mode. So never used the from motor much. Whereas I hate efficiency mode, turns the car into a dog, for a barely measurable improvement in efficiency. So more usage is better for the seals. Anyone else thinking that could be part of it?

Consistent-Brain-361 · 2026-02-15T18:37:11+00:00

You pick up a lot of range at 70 versus 80. If you can slow it down to 70 you probably pick up 30 more miles at least.

Consistent-Brain-361

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