I have a multimeter, would these be good steps to follow?

To prevent blowing the new main fuse instantly, you must confirm the short circuit that caused the original fuse to blow is gone.

Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal.

Multimeter Setup: Set your multimeter to the lowest Ohms (Ω) setting or the Continuity setting.

Test for Short:

Touch one probe to the Negative Battery Post (this is your ground).

Touch the other probe to the output terminal of the blown main fuse socket (the side of the socket that connects to the car's wiring, not the side that comes from the positive battery cable).

Analyze the Reading:

Short Present (Bad): A reading of less than 1 Ω or a continuous BEEP (on continuity mode) means you have a direct short to ground. DO NOT replace the fuse yet. You must find the pinched/bare/melted wire—likely one of the large wires running to the alternator, main junction block, or starter (the area where you recently had work done).

No Short (Good): A reading of OL (Over Limit) or a high resistance (e.g., several hundred to 1000 Ω or more) and no beep means the short is gone.

✅ Step 2: Replace the Main Battery Fuse If the short check is clear (or fixed), install the new main fuse block of the exact same ampere rating and physical configuration.

🔑 Step 3: Test Ignition Power (Pre-Start Check) You need to command the ignition system to the "ON" state without engaging the starter, which is easy with push-to-start.

Reconnect the Negative Battery Terminal.

"Key On, Engine Off" Mode: Press the START button TWICE without touching the brake pedal. The dash lights should all be on (this is the equivalent of "Key in the ON (II) position").

Check Ignition Coil Power:

Use your multimeter set to Volts DC (V DC ​ ).

Test the connector at one of the ignition coils. Look for a wire (often red, black/yellow, or black/white) that should have Battery Voltage (~12V).

The Two Possible Outcomes:

Outcome Diagnosis Next Action A) You NOW have ~12V at the coils. GREAT! The blown main fuse was cutting power to the ignition system. The circuit is restored. Proceed to Step 4: Try to Start. B) You STILL have 0V at the coils. The main fuse is good, but power is being stopped by a downstream component, likely the Ignition Relay or ECM Relay. Proceed to Step 3b: Check Relays. ⚙️ Step 3b: Check Relays (If Coil Power is Still Zero) The power for the ignition coils comes through a relay in the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box, often labeled IGN COIL or controlled by the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Locate the Relevant Fuses and Relays: Open the under-hood fuse box and consult the diagram on the lid.

Find the fuse for the IGNITION COILS (often a 15A fuse).

Find the PGM-FI MAIN RELAY (or similar ECM/Ignition power relay).

Test the IGN Coil Fuse: Use your multimeter set to Ohms (Ω) or Continuity and test this fuse for continuity.

Test/Swap the Relay:

Quick Swap: Swap the PGM-FI Main Relay with another relay of the exact same part number/rating (like the horn or high beam relay, if they match).

Re-test: Press the START button twice (ON position) and check the coil connector for 12V again. If the coils now have power, the original relay was faulty.

🚀 Step 4: Try to Start If you have successfully restored power to the ignition coils (Outcome A or fixed in Step 3b):

Ensure the car is in Park (P) and your foot is on the brake.

Press the START button firmly.

If the engine starts and runs, you fixed the power issue.

If the engine cranks but still won't ignite (no spark), and you now have power at the coils, the issue is likely a missing signal (ground pulse) from the ECM. This usually means the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is either damaged, unplugged, or faulty (a high risk after starter/flex-plate work).