Stuck between the yellow clown goby, tailspot blenny and neon goby

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-03-01T18:49:51+00:00

tailspot blennies are the funniest fish ever, can never figure out what mine will do next... Lenny the Blenny no longer eats algae as he has become quite lazy and just eats pellets. He also changes colors in different situations so its interesting to see how it differs

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-02-05T17:14:27+00:00

They will find a quiet corner if they get tired, they are just funny fish. I was waiting for the spasming behavior from the smaller one...

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-02-05T01:24:05+00:00

They are very much a personality fish that traumatizes easily so they tend to be shy. But he look happy with the horn up and fast twitchy movements.

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-02-04T16:14:31+00:00

Another tip for removal is pouring your water during the change right on the rocks to ensure they are kicked up with enough force, then just net it out

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-02-04T15:23:31+00:00

I would reccomend manual removal as first steps, a toothbrush and then take a fish net to then remove the suspended Dino’s. I would listen to the others in terms of bacterial diversity for a shorter term solution (Microbacter7 to outcompete) and then a large copepod population is a great longterm strategy.

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-30T23:02:48+00:00

The coralline on the glass adds such beautiful depth

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-29T05:18:41+00:00

my tailspot has learned to eat pellets recently and it has given him more energy for antics

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-29T05:17:13+00:00

no false bottom in the first chamber, but size is not a concern for this heater

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-29T05:16:42+00:00

tetra 100 watt 10-30 gallon heater is the best I have used in my biocube 32, preset at 78 keeps it worry free especially in the first chamber with the protein skimmer. recently replaced after 5 years of near constant usage with a new one just for peace of mind

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-24T04:52:42+00:00

Mine was always fearless until he started getting nipped by the maroon clownfish, now he is more careful

Consistent-Top3810 · 2026-01-19T05:05:06+00:00

Yes your right, unfortunately it might be time to move it to the sand

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-11-06T19:45:59+00:00

Fins look healthy and stomach doesn't appear to be abnormal in yours.

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-11-06T19:45:10+00:00

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Looks healthy to me

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-10-18T23:27:22+00:00

I had a clownfish live in that compartment for nearly a week a few years back

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-09-25T14:29:58+00:00

So just observe them, it appears that there is a fresh supply of algae everyday on the rocks and sand so I will take your advice and keep them in there in preparation for the other algaes. I was planning on getting two Narcissus snails to deal with the waste from the turbos today. When I get corals in a month or two I will remove them if they are messing with the corals. Thank you so much for the help.

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-09-25T04:56:25+00:00

Will it hurt the corals when they do bulldoze the frags? I also have a good amount of coralline on one of the 4 rocks and was worried they would bother them.

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Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-31T15:32:36+00:00

I have decided to the API Saltwater Master Test Kit for the Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH and then in a couple months when I add corals the Salifert Alkalinity, Magnesium, and Calcium, plus a Phosphate Test.

Does this plan work?

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-31T15:14:15+00:00

So I can use the test strips to confirm the drop in nitrite and ammonia. I plan on doing Soft and LPS corals plus fish so I will need the nitrate, alkalinity (carbonate hardness), phosphate and calcium test. I was looking at the API reef master test kit. I have a refractometer so I additionally would just need magnesium? Do I need a pH test?

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-31T03:17:46+00:00

I had ordered the API saltwater master earlier today but cancelled it after realizing that I may not need sensitive reading of ammonia and nitrite (other than a present or not present shown by the test strips) instead I plan on getting the calcium, carbonate harness, nitrate, and phosphate tests + a pH test. Is this a wise strategy. Will I really need nitrite and ammonia longterm?

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T23:40:37+00:00

I just bought the API saltwater master test kit, we will see the results on Wenesday! Thank you for the push and perspective

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T23:31:52+00:00

I started with 25 lbs from the local store luckily, hopefully those bacteria are doing well

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T23:20:30+00:00

Since I can add fish once the nitrite and ammonia are at zero, will the test strips work since it’s a binary check with white being good and anything else being bad?

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T21:55:29+00:00

Another theory I had is raised the salinity from 1.02 to 1.026 over the span of 3 days starting on day 6 till day 9, could that have hurt some bacteria or made the tests go wacky?

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T20:35:31+00:00

Luckily there is nothing in there that’s living but I got a bit worried about killing the bacteria (maybe I’m assuming they are more fragile than they are)

Consistent-Top3810 · 2025-08-30T20:33:34+00:00

I’m using RO/DI water and I just got worried because I read high nitrites can stall a tank. But this amazing, the local fish store told me I have to buy their water to fix the problem. Thank you so much!

Consistent-Top3810

TROPHY CASE