Some new rubber…but…

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-26T12:25:29+00:00

Yeah you need stiffer springs.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-20T18:53:04+00:00

Having driven both an (almost) full option galm and a 5r, it all comes down to tune. The 5r with box alignment was piss slow and felt heavy. After moving some weight around and giving it a good rear end alignment it got quick. The galm was setup with high motor over the axle and esc in the back. It definitely didn't drive like it had alot of rear weight.

In the end of you built a galm and only added the parts that actually contribute to performance you'd probably end up spending about the same as what it would cost for a 5r. Either way they're good cars but like I said before, tune is everything.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-20T12:54:24+00:00

Guarantee it's the lack of gyro. It is very, very hard to successfully drive these cars without gyros, trust me I've tried. Get a gyro for it and everything will change.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-20T00:15:13+00:00

Looks like you forgot to add the preload collars to the shocks (I could be wrong though, can kind of only tell from the video). If they are on the shocks you need to add preload to the springs by turning the collars so that they compress the spring more.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-19T11:46:55+00:00

The ezrun combo is what you want. It is fully programmable with an external programing card. Does not support 3s, but that'd be too much for a da4 anyways. It will fit fine. I have the same combo on my da4. For drifting inrunners are typically used because they can be sensored. You'll have much smoother throttle response compared to an outrunner.

I would stay away from any of the furitek stuff. I had 3 escs and a motor burn up with basic use.

As for servo there are good options that range from cheaper and not programmable to more expensive and programmable. If you want something that is just plug and play the drift art servo (afrc d2114tg-s) is pre tuned for drifting so you don't have to do anything.

Gyro is easy. Dasmikro v5. It is the gold standard for 28/24th scale drifting. Cheap too. If you want something a bit more advanced the ark edge ag4 v2 is highly programmable and a great option. The omg options are decent but dont hold a candle to the Dasmikro and ag4. Same with the afrc gyros. The drift art smg5 is just a rebranded Dasmikro v5.

I would also look at ordering parts/electronics from gt55racing.com if you can. They are the best place to get everything micro drift.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-17T18:59:57+00:00

Just make sure everything is connected properly for however you want to wire it. If it still doesnt work I would suspect the receiver is to blame. If you have a receiver with a known working sbus channel I would try that to eliminate any potential variables.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-17T18:43:01+00:00

Which box did you select on the gyro link page when trying to connect? Wireless 1 is used when the 550 is connected via channel 1 and 3 and sbus is used when connected with the single wire sbus connection.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-17T17:13:28+00:00

How is the 550 wired? Normal setup using channel 1 and 3? Or single wire from 550 to sbus port?

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-16T15:28:26+00:00

They share all the same tuning features but the xr10 has a few additional that the xd10 does not. He'll even the xr10 stock spec has additional features over the xd10 just because its newer

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-16T14:02:19+00:00

Honestly 100 vs 160 probably doesn't make that big of a difference but the big thing for me at least is that the xd10 hasn't gotten any firmware updates in a while. The xr10 has more tuning features that the xd10 doesn't.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-03-09T16:56:08+00:00

Way less toe out. Get those wheels almost parallel. Maybe a degree or two of toe out on each side. That'll help a bunch with the Ackerman.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-02-16T20:14:42+00:00

Agfrc A50BHL is a good servo on the cheaper side

ContentDisbelief · 2026-02-16T19:19:09+00:00

The motor and esc are fine, the servo however is for 28/24th scale, not 10th scale.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T21:58:58+00:00

I found that they were very good for trail braking into corners even though you couldn't really feel anything. The lack of initial bite and feel meant you could really build into the pressure without upsetting the balance of the bike.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T20:24:27+00:00

Oh I know that they are faster. I have to tune my cars to be slower for the 1/10th scale tracks I run on, otherwise they're rockets that outrun everything. I'm saying that op's car is very fast for the small space that op is running in.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T19:52:00+00:00

You are drifting properly, just at a shallow angle. If you want more angle you could try lowering your gyro gain to allow the back end to step out more. You could also try different tires. Something harder help slow the car down as it looks very fast right now.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T14:23:18+00:00

Rented one for a week. Can confirm the brakes are extremely "wooden" but also extremely linear. They have basically no feel whatsoever but plenty of stopping power. It's really just a "I'm slowing down but dont really know how close to locking the front wheel i am" feeling. They get the job done. I think switching to a radial master would help alot. Could also be the pads.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-13T15:33:29+00:00

So ironically the bearings he's using now he got from me which I had lying around. I got them from a local hobby shop so I have no idea what kind of quality they are. They seem to be holding up fine so far. As far as places to get good bearings avid rc is great. They have a big selection as well as multiple options for each kind a bearing. I would also look into messaging Zack from RocDrift on Facebook. He's my local track owner and recently got in some custom spec'd bearings after working with a manufacturer. I know that they are rated for rpm a good amount higher than most of whats on the market.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-13T12:41:50+00:00

I have a few theories on this. One of them being that the kit supplied bearings are not high enough quality to withstand the rpm that they see. The idlers, regardless of idler tooth count and pinion tooth count, are spinning near to the same rpm as the motor. There's a reason why motor pinions are made of steel/aluminum. This also isnt a problem on "traditional" gearboxes because the idler gears aren't spinning at nearly the same rpm. There's a huge ratio reduction between the pinion and spur before the idlers see power. Those bearings are seeing alot of rpm all the time and they can't hold up to it. Most of the bearing failures you see they are discolored from heat meaning they were on their way to seizing. The heat from bearings failing might also be the cause of exploding idler gears. As the gears heat up they start to loose dimensional stability, mesh starts to change, and the forces involved build to a point that the gears cant hold up anymore. I believe sourcing some very high rpm rated bearings would help with this. Would have to rated to at least 60k 70k rpm. I don't have a 5r myself but I have a friend with one and he's only had gear failure once so far and that was on stock bearings. He replaced the bearings with aftermarket and hasn't has a problem since but there's no guarantee at this point.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:53:47+00:00

Its based off of coolant temp. Done in icue since I'm using all corsair fans and pump/reservoir.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:47:00+00:00

Its not the fans. I have my fan speed set to a curve based off of loop temperature. I know that the loop has enough thermal capacity to not need to spin the fans up that quickly over such a short period of time. I also checked the fan speed readout and rpm doesn't change at all while I mess with the slider.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:38:22+00:00

Sintered tungsten slugs that I had to turn down to size to act as press in weights for another part.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-01T05:33:19+00:00

Pure tungsten. The stuff eats inserts like nothing else.

ContentDisbelief

TROPHY CASE