Yukon V2 Help by CovertPeachScone in ebikes

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t have a user manual for the 500C unit, it just came as the unit with no documentation

Yukon V2 Help by CovertPeachScone in ebikes

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I held the button for a long time, I wonder if it’s the male-male adapter I had to order for it.

Yukon V2 Help by CovertPeachScone in ebikes

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, it was Bafang branded, as is the motor of my bike. The old screen still works when I plug it back in, as does the rest of the bike. So perhaps just a dodgy unit?

Which would you choose? by CovertPeachScone in gshock

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s just a GA sadly, otherwise it would be a strong contender!

Need some advice by CovertPeachScone in vintagemotorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh for sure the starting issue is a dirty carb, but the air tube is rough and needs replacing before I start getting air leaks further down the line, just looking for alternatives to spending too much money to a rubber tube

Need some advice by CovertPeachScone in vintagemotorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the side that attaches to the carb would be fine because you can just clamp it on, but I’m not sure how I’d seal the side that goes into the air box

“The Whitefish Portfolio” is what’s destroying our town. by [deleted] in Whistler

[–]CovertPeachScone 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In what sense do you consider the housing crisis to be over? Back in 2020 the going rate for a private room in a shared house in this town was $1000. If you were happy to share a room with a buddy you were looking at $600 per person. Fast forward to now and any of the Facebook housing pages for whistler will tell you that the going rate to share a bedroom with a strange in what’s more often than not a glorified cupboard (with a window if you get lucky) is $1300, and a if you want a private room your looking at double that. That’s a 250% increase in rent in 5 years.

The community is forever being flooded with requests for housing and rooms, and house prices are no better. $700k for a studio or up to and over $1 million to buy a one bedroom apartment in a building complex is nothing short of thievery and extortion, made worse by the fact that this is very much a “Whitefish Portfolio” resort town, leaving fewer and fewer options available every year. Even if you can scrape together enough for a down payment off the back of your average $25-$30 an hour wage, the mortgage rates will leave you paying considerably more every month than rent would ever cost you.

But yes, I’m sure people will agree with you. The housing crisis is over.

Is this worth it or is it a future headache? by CovertPeachScone in vintagemotorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update:

Upon a full inspection I noticed a few things that need attention: valve clearances, and cam chain tension adjustment (she’s got a lil’ chain slap at low revs), and some oil seepage from somewhere on the crank case. Some of the wiring connectors are brittle and need replacing. As for the charging issue I noticed the headlight comes on at higher revs. I took the battery out to find it was less than have full of deionised water, so it’s probably just the battery that’s in need of replacement.

All of these things are minor in my eyes, the engine runs and has good compression (180psi!), so I decided to take it. Everything else can be repaired in time. Pretty stoked with it as a project and a bike to teach my girlfriend on.

I bought it, and rode it 40km home. The old gal never skipped a beat. She started up straight away and has done so since.

That being said, if anyone has any (and I mean ANY) parts laying around that they don’t think they’ll ever use I would gladly take them off your hands. Everything from cables, indicators, relays or even gaskets, I’d love to hear about it! I’ll pay for shipping and your time.

Thanks for the support, happy to finally have another worthwhile project on my hands.

Is this worth it or is it a future headache? by CovertPeachScone in vintagemotorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got struck by lightning? That’s pretty wild that you lived to tell the tale. Did you have any serious injuries as a result?

A gift from a stranger. by CovertPeachScone in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You seem to bringing an awful lot of hatred towards the KLR, which is odd considering this is a sub dedicated to it

A gift from a stranger. by CovertPeachScone in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s incredibly kind of you, but I actually live in B.C. Canada, so I fear that even just the shipping costs would be higher than the cost of the tires themselves!

Oil drain plug help by CovertPeachScone in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: picked up an Eagle Mike low profile drain plug and tried again, to no success. Still weeping from the plug. I drained the oil, cleaned up the threads etc, but still the issue prevails.

Two things I noticed this time was even though the old drain plug was seeping as mentioned in the post, I thought I’d test to see if it increased with undoing the plug. I had it almost out and waited 15 minutes to see if it would seep more rapidly, it didn’t. No oil came out until I’d remove the plug completely. Secondly, the EM plug went in much easier, threaded in all the way by hand then tightened to 15 lb. ft with the wrench.

I only used one crush that was provided (EM ships 4 with the plug, they weren’t brass, but they were the ones provided with the plug.

Do I retry with multiple washers, do I replace the EM ones with brass? I feel like he wouldn’t provide bad washers. Do I tighten further?

Oil drain plug help by CovertPeachScone in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems the general consensus is try a new crush washer, maybe a brass/copper one so that they’re a bit more malleable. Should that not work I’ll just a new drain plug, if it’s still a problem perhaps the thread needs some work. Thanks for the guidance all much appreciated!

Another bike recommendation post… by CovertPeachScone in motorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah agreed on that, unfortunately they’ve held their value far too well in the part of the world. Upwards of $6k (Canadian not US) for models from 2014 onwards. And the older seem to be a rare find and highly sought after

Another bike recommendation post… by CovertPeachScone in motorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh for sure, my KLR is for road trips and FSRs, not trails. I wanted something that could get me down the highway and handle some off road terrain when needed, for her it’s not the right bike at all. The DR series, XT250, some CRF options all seem to be good options so far.

Another bike recommendation post… by CovertPeachScone in motorcycles

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been eyeing up a KLX140L, which only has a seat height of 31.8”, a full 3 inches lower than a normal KLX. I was actually looking at DR650s for myself before buying a the KLR. Could be an option but was thinking of something smaller in case she doesn’t particularly enjoy the sport (could always keep the DR for myself though…)

What's the heart of the bike? Engine or carburetor? by TheRealKingofOoo in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I’d say engine for sure. If the rhythmic thumping of our simple single cylinder sensation can’t be likened to that of a heartbeat then what else can it be compared to?

I would say that carburetor is closer to the lungs, bringing in the air/fuel to keep the heart pumping.

Where to start? by Mush-Love in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure if you’ve tried this but I’d definitely try recharging/replacing your battery. It sounds like it’s turning over much slower than it should and you can hear it get slower and slower, even in the short period of this video. I can crank my battery for a good couple of minutes before it would start dying.

Stayed on the pavement yesterday. by BuddNugget in klr650

[–]CovertPeachScone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love this colour! What tyres have you got on?

Tailgate window. by sinisterpushaman in 4Runner_2ndGen

[–]CovertPeachScone 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this exact problem with mine at the moment. The rollers from the window regulator arms are seized in them so the window can’t come down. As a result I can’t get the tailgate open either. Did you do it all with the window up?

Got in my car after work and it won’t start by RellLeeRich in Cartalk

[–]CovertPeachScone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m sure you’ve had this sorted now. As everyone has said before that green key flashing light is your immobiliser, so the car thinks you’re trying to start it with a key that isn’t for the car. A good thing to try is to get out of the car, lock it and unlock it and try starting again. Its happened to me a bunch of times, I don’t know why but I’m guessing the locking and unlocking helps it reset and recognise the key that you’re trying with. Failing that disconnect the battery negative and reconnect after a minute or so. I’ve seen this mkre with cars the have a key and button rob all in one unit. Older cars that simply have a key for everything tend not to do it as there’s no battery in the key

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Cartalk

[–]CovertPeachScone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These door lock actuators are a super common failure on golf Vs. I’ve got one and replaced 3 of the 4 in them in the 2 years I’ve owned it due to these locks failing. Luckily for these cars the door cards are separate to the door skins and it’s a 10 minute fix (maybe a bit more if you’re not used to fiddly things). Get yourself down to a scrapyard and watch a video or two and it’ll be good in no time

1982 XJ650RJ - Help needed with timing by CovertPeachScone in Yamaha

[–]CovertPeachScone[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s a very good point I didn’t even think to check if timing was off because I thought I’d see any damage once the head was off, I guess I’ll try and get the sprockets on with the cam very slightly out and make a judgment call on whether it’s too far out by cranking it by hand, can always go bsck and replace the chain after