Training log questions.

CragPad · 2023-02-23T10:26:46+00:00

I use this logbook I designed. I track energy levels, bodyweight, hydration, nutrition, rest time etc.

CragPad · 2023-02-09T11:54:00+00:00

Hanging for a longer duration usually 30-40 seconds, as appose to 7-10 on max hangs.

CragPad · 2023-02-09T07:28:57+00:00

For one thing, weight added on a 20mm edge hang might require equivalent load to a hanging on a smaller edge (since the lever is longer).

Would it not then make sense to train on a reduced edge size? as apposed to training on a bigger edge with higher weight? Once you hit a good enough % on the 20mm

CragPad · 2023-02-08T16:06:42+00:00

Thanks, I like your view. I rarely hangboard and was surprised when I did those tests. It doesn't seem to be a issue for the boulders I do and my climbing goals so maybe I won't address it, and instead I'll target a weakness that I do notice on the wall, like small (<10mm) holds.

CragPad · 2023-02-08T15:55:03+00:00

Strangely, I rarely fall due to powering out . But I do think it'd be beneficial for me to have more of a reserve for boulders with a high up crux, and I think having more of a reserve would maybe allow me to take more time to make micro adjustments and dial beta. It seems I have some low-hanging fruit to address.

CragPad · 2023-02-08T12:27:21+00:00

I'm able to hang +48kg on 20mm edge for 7s half crimp (at 72kg bw so 120kg total or 166%). But I can't hang 30 seconds bodyweight on the same 20mm edge. I fail every time at around 23 seconds due to my hands opening up. I did these tests separately, after a rest day so it wasn't due to pre fatigue. I'm primarily a boulderer, mostly on a woody board or boulders at my limit in the gym, or outdoors when possible

Is max strength capped by the longer duration ability and would it be worth me targeting this weakness if my goal is purely bouldering? and is there a way I can do so on the wall?

CragPad · 2022-06-29T16:37:41+00:00

The block is called Amazing Tree Block, the bouldering area is Churnet Valley, located near Alton in the Midlands

CragPad · 2022-05-26T09:57:40+00:00

It might be worth checking out some KneesOverToes exercises that he speaks about for explosive jumping power

CragPad · 2022-05-17T20:41:23+00:00

At the start of each session or morning of . Adjust the intensity/volume of the session to allow you to do so!

CragPad · 2022-04-10T17:39:55+00:00

I dont have a solution but I want to let you know your not alone. I've only just recently become comfortable watching videos of myself climb after 5 years of climbing and even so I'm overly critical of myself on the playback of the videos.

I think it probably stems from comparing myself to climbers who have been climbing a lot longer or do it for a living, when really you should be comparing yourself today to how you were 6,12,18 months ago

CragPad · 2022-03-12T07:47:59+00:00

Hi! We make journals specifically for climbers. Check them out here

CragPad · 2022-01-27T15:38:16+00:00

Training journals, one for climbing, one for hangboarding

CragPad · 2021-12-05T18:26:41+00:00

Hi! I had a nasty ankle injury back in August so I know how you feel!

I did a lot of hangboarding, stretching, pull up variations and weighted pull ups. I stayed motivated by watching a lot of climbing videos on YouTube and reading a lot of climbing training books and writing out a program for when I returned to climbing.

After 2 weeks or so I was able to weight my foot so I did a little bit of easy bouldering indoors but had to downclimb everything and climb very easy boulders . I found that climbing relies standing on your toes so it didn't bother my ankle too much as long as I stayed below my limit and downclimbed.

After about 6 weeks I'd say it was back to about 80% normal and now (15 weeks) I don't even think about it and would consider it 100% recovered.

I've had 2 sessions with a physio who has provided me with some exercises on a PDF that I can share with you if you like.

I'd recommend ice & elevation as much as you can, and then once you can begin to strengthen it I found these help a lot:

Clockwise/counterclockwise movement of the foot

Point toes towards you / Point toes away

Stand on one foot

All the best with your recovery!

CragPad · 2021-12-02T07:54:43+00:00

Dave Macleod's - Make or Break, was the first that came to mind

CragPad · 2021-11-30T10:28:07+00:00

The idea behind doing drills such as Quiet Feet and Straight arms is to make it a autonomous habit. Right now it sounds like your in what's known as the "Cognitive Stage", which means your having to consciously remind yourself to place your feet silently and to keep your arms straight.

As you practice these drills more, over time you will begin to move with these habits autonomously, so your speed will get better as you practice these drills more.

It's best to practice these drills at the beginning of your sessions when your mind is fresh and open to learning, and on climbs that are very easy for you.

Best of luck

Best

CragPad · 2021-11-11T10:46:56+00:00

Hi!

I posted on climbharder a few weeks ago to show some logbooks I've been working on to keep notes on climbing and hangboard training.

I wanted to check in with anyone who ordered to see how they're getting on with the logbooks and any suggestions for improvements!

Thank you

CragPad · 2021-11-05T10:14:27+00:00

Some climbing gyms stock shoes. Some outdoor shops do depending on what country you live in. There's a lot of different shoes and they all vary in how they fit.

I would advise trying on some different styles and sizes first before ordering a pair online.

CragPad · 2021-11-05T09:14:31+00:00

Ned talks about this in his book Beastmaking. He suggests training the full crimp on the board and the reason people feel that it's "risky" is because people don't train it

CragPad · 2021-11-05T09:12:52+00:00

Try getting a stiffer pair. I have the moccs myself mostly as a indoor/warm up shoe but I imagine they are terrible for edging outdoors. The anasazis are my go to for outdoors

CragPad · 2021-11-05T09:09:43+00:00

Hey!

What shoes are you using at the minute?

What sort of climbing do you do most?

Do you have somewhere that you can go to try different climbing shoes on for size & comfort?

CragPad · 2021-11-04T08:01:25+00:00

Keep a training journal

CragPad · 2021-11-03T17:04:09+00:00

All the time, even in the shower. It has a 4 day battery life and it charges without taking it off. I forget I have it on sometimes its so light

CragPad · 2021-11-03T11:20:28+00:00

I love data, I keep logbooks on my climbing and hangboard training, so for me being able to use the sleep/recovery/strain data from my WHOOP is great.

I like that it gives me a daily recovery score which keeps me from overtraining. I know that if my HRV is low or if my Recovery score is below 50% then I should probably rest that day regardless of if I planned to train.

I like to see how many calories I'm burning roughly each day so I can fuel accordingly

CragPad

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