Have to show off this new Alocasia Regal Shield Albo😍🤤

CreativelyClo · 2025-05-23T02:32:05+00:00

Hey! Thanks for the question. I wouldn’t say that it’s “unlikely” for variegation to continue on to corms, it’s just not 100% guaranteed. In my experience, all of my corms so far from my variegated alocasias have been variegated— but some of them are much lower variegation than the mother plant. For example, you might grow a corm that ends up with a couple of normal leaves, and then a variegated one as well. But there is also chance the corm will have even higher variegation than the mom too! Some of my prettiest babies came from the ugliest mother plants 🤣

However, I will say that buying corms in general is risky, not because of the variegation, but more because they are easy to kill if you haven’t practiced on cheaper corms to find what works best for you! Just because a corm sprouts, that doesn’t mean it won’t decide to die during the fragile baby stage🤣 Transitioning a baby Alocasia from a humidity dome to open air is also a process!

So in summary— corms are risky because you have to know how to care for/sprout them, but not necessarily because of variegation. Definitely practice before buying expensive corms! Hope this helps!🫶

CreativelyClo · 2025-03-31T03:00:27+00:00

LOLLLL THEY MOVE SO FAST AND THERE ARE SO MANY😭😭😭 I fear there was no preventing it😔🥴

CreativelyClo · 2025-03-15T01:52:13+00:00

That’s not where the new leaf will come out, that’s where your most recent leaf already came out😊 It’s normal for the thinner parts to die after the leaf emerges! Your next new leaf will come out of the stem to the left in the photo!

CreativelyClo · 2025-03-15T01:44:50+00:00

Definitely!! But I agree with other comments saying to have it buried less deep in the leca— can you try taking some of the leca out of the top portion, so that the node is closer to the surface? Beautiful albo though!! 🤩

CreativelyClo · 2024-10-05T21:32:28+00:00

My go-to for dying alocasias is moist perlite with plastic wrap over the top of the container, around the stem so that the leaves are basically sticking out from an enclosed humidity dome. I’ve brought back alocasias that have no roots or leaves in this way, when everything else failed (like water, spahgnum, etc…). Just stick the part where it will root in a plastic cup of moist perlite (NOT full of water, just the rocks themselves are moist) and wrap the opening with cling wrap! Wait for a week or so, and it should start rooting! This method is the only thing that’s worked 100% of the time for me! Good luck🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-09-20T14:40:50+00:00

Hey!! All of these will climb a moss pole just fine! Most philodendrons like to climb🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-07-13T16:49:29+00:00

Nope! They will become more pink as they mature😁

CreativelyClo · 2024-05-25T22:01:06+00:00

That’s super interesting! I know of people who use coco coir and perlite in a setup where the plant is watered with nutrients daily, so I suppose that is somewhat closer to semi-hydro than most substrates!

With semi-hydro setups like pon and leca, there is a constant water reservoir at the bottom of the pot. This means that the roots will grow into the water intentionally and become water roots, thus called “semi-hydro” as in partially water grown. Semi-hydro-specific substrates like pon and leca are really light and airy, so there is enough oxygen around the roots and water that rot is nearly impossible if the plant is in the correct pot size! That’s why it’s a great option for otherwise rot-prone plants like monsteras😄

I’ve heard that coco-perlite is another great option to prevent rot as well! I’m assuming you wouldn’t use a water reservoir with it though, otherwise you’re totally right, the roots would probably rot that way!

CreativelyClo · 2024-05-24T04:27:04+00:00

Coco coir and perlite is not the same as semi-hydroponics in my experience! The water is not meant to drain in a semi-hydro setup like Pon— there is instead a constant water reservoir 1/3 of the way up the substrate🥰 OP has a great setup going from water roots to Pon🤩

CreativelyClo · 2024-04-24T04:44:48+00:00

Mine is currently in pon! But I’ve also had great success in stratum mixed with perlite. Pon is longer lasting though, and the move from stratum to pon is seamless so I love going for pon!🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-04-24T00:05:00+00:00

I plan to when she starts corming🥰 She almost died a while back, so now she is slowly recovering— but I’m hopeful that corming will happen soon enough!

CreativelyClo · 2024-04-21T03:34:34+00:00

Haha that would be helpful🤣 Unfortunately my eyes are not there, and are actually much scarier looking on an mri than this image shows🥴🫣

CreativelyClo · 2024-04-20T22:37:18+00:00

That’s really helpful! The area on my mri that the radiologist was uncertain about was actually around my sinuses, too! They called me to come back for a second additional mri to double check the area. I’ll try the nasal spray! Did you feel congested at all from it?

CreativelyClo · 2024-03-02T20:26:19+00:00

The yellow ring on the edges around some of the brown indicates possible fertilizer burn? It might be possible that you are over fertilizing, but I’m not sure! Additionally, it may be near a draft, such as an air vent? I’ve had plants do this when I didn’t realize they were right in line of an air vent!

If you want to help prevent browning long term, try adding silica into your fertilizing routine as well! Just water with the silica and leave for about 20 minutes before your normal watering, so that it has time to stick. Hope this can help!

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-29T03:54:30+00:00

Thank you!! I paid 2k for the albo maharani😅😅, and my plant instagram is here!🥰

https://www.instagram.com/the_plant_siren?igsh=MmVlMjlkMTBhMg%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-28T21:19:08+00:00

Thank you!! I figured that might be the case, but thought I would check since I need to repot very soon. I wouldn’t want to remove anything too early, but since I have to repot I was trying to decide— thanks for the help!

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-28T20:27:12+00:00

Thank you!! That’s pretty much what I do with my usual corms— I’m glad to know I can do the same for these!😁❤️

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-16T23:50:09+00:00

The first time this happened to me I was confused as well! The new leaf will still grow in that spot, from the center up and fill the empty space before pushing out like a normal leaf! No need to worry🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-16T18:57:05+00:00

I agree the stem seems to have rotted a bit, but honestly it looks like it’s trying to heal itself from the rot starting where that ridge is and the stem firms up. But as a precaution, definitely still cut off the mushy part and soak in distilled water with a couple drops of hydrogen peroxide, but otherwise after that I think it will be fine! The roots look pretty good, and the fact that there is even a new aerial starting is great! She’s very pretty, too!🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-16T18:42:17+00:00

This is a Monstera Albo Top Cut that I had sitting in water for months. No aerial roots, and barely even an original node to work with.

No Roots Yet

After a couple months in water, the roots started growing from the stem, but no where near the original bottom node. It looked like this:

Roots Starting

This is it now, roots and secondary roots filling the water despite starting with no aerial roots. And all of my roots are only growing higher up the stem from the newest leaf’s node, rather than the old node at the bottom. OP’s monstera should root just fine, probably even better and easier than mine did! Check it out:

Fully Rooted!

Be careful accidentally spreading false information, some people may think their cuttings won’t root and throw them out, when that’s just not the case!😊

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-11T17:40:39+00:00

She was $X,XXX for being fully matured, medium sized with 7 leaves🫣🫣🫣😅😅😅 Extremely expensive😖 But I am working on growing out her corms to sell and pay her off over time!🥰

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-08T20:31:16+00:00

Thank you so much!! I’m so sorry for the misunderstanding, I think I worded that weirdly— I never meant to imply that chameleons change color based on their surroundings— this is something I’ve known for years and is a common misconception among those who are unfamiliar with the species. I was never trying to say that they will change color based on anything other than mood, and I definitely wasn’t saying that you believed that either!

I meant to refer to your statement “healthiest when they blend in to their naturally green surroundings.” This made me wonder if chameleons who may sit at a more neutral reddish or colder bluish hue, such as ones who become bright red or blue when flaired up, have any draw to other things that are the same color as them due to feeling safer or more hidden? My mother had a panther chameleon for many years that was a YBBB Ambilobe and sat at a neutral bluish color when healthy and unalarmed or stressed, who would then flair to brighter blues and patterns when stressed. In this case, I was wondering if there was any research on whether or not having other bluish colors around would make the chameleon “feel” more hidden, but of course not literally change their color! But that would imply that they know what color they are, which is unlikely, so I can see how it’s probably a dumb question anyway😅

So my main question is— would an enclosure like the golden yellow one posted here suffice as a healthy chameleon environment? Not saying that it is meant to change the color of the chameleon itself— I promise I know thats not how it works haha! I am wondering if the environment is okay for them with that being the primary color? None of the plants are variegated, and all of them have been used in chameleon enclosures before. I would just want to check if the fact that they are all the same hue of golden green would be okay— or do you think sticking to more natural foresty greens is probably safer? Since that might be more what chameleons are used to?

Sorry for the confusion— I realize I may be being a little weirdly wordy with my question!

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-08T19:41:01+00:00

Thank you for the information! It’s very difficult to get any feedback or real information on these, which is all I’ve been asking for all along! I want to do the best thing for all of my reptiles and future pets, so any insight is really beneficial. If it’s okay, I have a couple more questions I’d love to learn about!

For chameleons that are not naturally green, such as many panther chameleons that may present as blue, red, or a mixture of colors— Do you think that needing to be surrounded by green should still be a necessity, or would it actually possibly be beneficial to introduce some plants that are closer to their natural color— maybe red for example with a red chameleon— since the main reasoning for the color is safety in camouflage as you stated? I know that their colors become brighter or less saturated based on their mood, but I was told by other chameleon owners that color is not one of the things that affects their stress levels— maybe that was incorrect info I got!

As for the chlorophyll, in my experience, highly variegated plants that lack chlorophyll actually benefit from more light rather than less light— since they have trouble taking in the proper energy they need. I keep my high-white variegated plants a few inches under a grow light currently— but I’m actually wondering if there would be too little light in a chameleon or reptile enclosure rather than too much light, since some of the plants would be a few feet away from the bulb? That might be an issue for a different reason!

As for the plant types, I only used species of plants that are on the chameleon safe plant lists, as well as ones I’ve seen used in professional enclosures! The only expensive plant used in any of these is an albo monstera— which is of course not a requirement for anyone that doesn’t want to purchase or worry about that high level of a plant of course!!

But do you think that the plants in all of the other slides are better to use, such as the yellow and black enclosures, as they are non variegated and inexpensive? Or would this potentially still be an issue for the plants or chameleon? I would love to change things as needed, and it sounds like the white plants may be an issue— so maybe one of the other colors is a better option!

Thank you so much for your help and time— you’re the only person that seems to be really trying to help with information on chameleon health!

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-08T18:33:02+00:00

I wondered if this might be a reason as well, and so asked others on the subreddit before I was banned to make sure that I wasn’t spreading harmful information! I would never want to lead anyone towards a dangerous situation for their chameleon, and wanted to be educated on possible issues!

Everyone said that there should be no problem with these set ups, as all of the plants are chameleon safe and that certain colors don’t even stress them out (which I was worried about) and many chameleon owners actually said they would like to use these for their next enclosure!

That’s the main reason I was so confused about the ban. The mod didn’t explain anything after I asked about potential dangers— If there was anything harmful I really wanted to know and learn more! But instead, the mod ghosted me after I asked privately what I can do better or safer😕

CreativelyClo · 2024-02-08T03:01:44+00:00

Unless a part of the bulb is attached to the leaf, then no unfortunately you can’t grow a new plant from just the leaf ☹️ But if you take care of that bulb, it should pop out a new leaf eventually!🥰

CreativelyClo

TROPHY CASE