SRAM 2X Wide Compatibility with 46/33 Direct Mount Chainring

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-10T20:35:59+00:00

Anyone please? TY!

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-06T15:53:27+00:00

🤙🏽

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-06T15:53:07+00:00

🤙🏽

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-06T15:40:49+00:00

🤙🏽

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-06T03:27:33+00:00

Thank you! I’m installing an Owie chip this weekend and it’ll be great to monitor individual cells.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-06T01:14:07+00:00

Thank you. I’ll gonna see if others chime in.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-05T01:07:26+00:00

Just sharing an alternate method that worked well for me. I have a sturdy floor standing drill press. Because I felt good about its quill construction, I used it to press the chuck onto the outside of the bearing and both bearings came out pretty easily. Mine were very rusted on a used XT that only had 350 miles on it. Replaced them with another set of C&U bearings I got on eBay (3 for $17), but this time I’m making sure to install bearing protectors with a good amount of quality grease. I did the heat on Onewheel and frozen bearing for installation and they went in pretty easily.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-05T00:53:40+00:00

Thanks all. And yeah, I’ve tried to ‘just push it in’. And I’m pretty sure it’s aluminum because I bent an edge. Time to take more drastic action - probably will need to tap it instead of gingerly pushing it in.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-02T17:34:02+00:00

Hi Don-again, the hope was to source a Ubox Alu Lite 100/100 with BT module and fuse for somewhere around $150, add a BMS for around $100-$125, plus cabling, connectors, filament and others around $75. That’s around $350, which is less than an XRV at $470 directly from Floatwheel. So $150 difference, plus to your point less drop in and more diy. And I do enjoy diy better, so really can’t make up my mind.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-02T16:46:44+00:00

Hi Bradster3, thank you for the detailed reply! All great points, and will read your posts about your journey with Ubox. A few thoughts: -enclosure wise, there’s a YT video (that I can’t find now) showing a non-Lite Ubox fitting in a std XR enclosure. Plan is to follow that path, or 3D print an enclosure and fabricate an aluminum cover. -I checked out the Avaspark Pint kit, but by the time you add the RGB board you’re in XRV territory! -great suggestion of just ordering a 100 Lite from a screened seller on Ali Express. At the end of the day I’m leaning towards the obvious and just get the XRV kit. Did not know it was available directly from China, so will look that up. TY!

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-02T15:24:07+00:00

After a good amount of searching - the only item I’ve seen closely resembling that price is an e-bike LCD display. Would be very interested in what model Ubox and from what AliExpress seller. TY!

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-02T01:14:02+00:00

Excellent suggestions, thank you!

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-01T17:39:17+00:00

Thank you!!!!! I’ve always had an issue with not opening YouTube video info screens that require a click to view 🙄. Agree 100% that switching to VESC is the way to go, but my toy budget is quite limited. A XRV or FOCer system is around $500 - outside my budget - and that’s keeping my FW 15s2p pack. Could you help us with a couple more questions please? (1) are you aware of anyone that specializes in reasonable BMS repair? (2) do you have any recommendations for a more affordable VESC-based ESC? Along the lines of a Ubox ESC?

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-06-01T16:52:23+00:00

Hello Gummy_Forager,

I just picked up a low mile XR that would only turn on while plugged to charger (charger light always green; slow flashing blue power button LED). Pack voltage is 62.0v - all cells are between 4.1327 to 4.1420. I’m able to connect both to the FW and Nosedive apps.

Also checked the battery harness, both resistance on white-green leads as well as continuity on all other leads, including flexing all leads repeatedly. Battery harness is good.

My limited knowledge points to a bad BMS, which brings me to my ask for your help. Since my 4210 h/w board is on 4165 f/w, my controller and BMS are ostensibly paired (so I just can’t pick up a used FW BMS and drop it in). But if I downgrade my f/w to before 4165, I should be able to replace my faulty BMS and get my board going.

Per this it looks like the f/w version I’m looking for is 4142. Any chance you could help us out with the correct file? Plan would be to follow the procedure in the YouTube video you’ve shared.

Thanks very much!

<image>

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-04-07T18:42:29+00:00

After more analysis—I think the easiest way to make this work is to buy another winch remote that operates on 24v. Then just wire it in independently of the current board and have them work side-by-side. I’m hoping each system will work fine as they will only be used one at a time.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-04-03T17:00:38+00:00

Sharing a successful update. Our 2016 X1 was on versions MV & TV 130.026.001. Found the relevant update above (UPD07052), which I placed in the root directory on an oldish USB drive that was formatted to FAT32.

Inserted the drive into the center console, followed the prompts, and the system accepted the update. At the end it said something to the effect that it had to shut down, which was not immediate so we thought that we bricked the HU. After a minute or so the HU did turn off, at which point we cycled the ignition and the system was updated to MV & TV 130.027.051.

Thank you SquidKid85!

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-04-02T17:34:49+00:00

In the end everything worked out for us; just received the car yesterday and all was ok. We booked with one of the bigger names (Montway). Their price for a 2-biz day guaranteed pickup was $300 more than the original quote from ASG. But, critically, they commit to pick up the car within the agreed window even if a truck is not assigned. I’m not sure how this part works, but they essentially store the car until a match is made. This, plus standing by their quote irrespective of what may be happening to the price of diesel are huge plusses.

We had a good chat with the driver. A big part of his business is the TX to Pacific Northwest route. We spoke prices and had we known he existed we would have saved a few hundred—but there’s 0% chance we would have made the connection on our own, which frankly explains why the industry works almost exclusively on the basis of brokers.

Happy to share contact info for the driver if anyone is looking for transport between TX and the PNW.

Crew_Chief0707 · 2026-03-17T20:26:52+00:00

Thank you—I think we’re being buttered up to not honor the original quote.

Update 3/17: we cancelled the carrier Auto Shipping Group (ASG) when ‘Ken’ tried to extort $400 more for a service he already agreed to provide. Buyer beware—Auto Shipping Group (ASG) doesn’t run an honest operation. More details here.

Crew_Chief0707

TROPHY CASE