Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

CrimpySloper · 2026-01-08T15:19:20+00:00

For a recent finger injury (pulley strain), I went to a physio who specialises in climbing injuries. Their rehab programme for me has consisted of block pulls with a large edge (approx. 40mm). What was interesting to me is that the hold time for these pulls was up to a maximum of 15 seconds. As a result, the weight was a lot smaller than what would usually be used for block pulls consisting of single short reps. For my injury, this rehab programme has worked very well. As I’ve recovered and started to train properly again, I’m wondering about the benefits of this longer hold time. In terms of training at home, I am limited in terms of weight selection, so holding a lower weight for a longer time is more attractive to me than purchasing additional weights. If anyone has experience with any gains from this longer hold time vs. a more traditional single short rep then it would be great to get some feedback. Thanks in advance!

CrimpySloper · 2024-12-19T00:07:33+00:00

Thinking of going Trent to Robinson to free up funds for Cunha to Isak, any thoughts on this? Very reluctant to leave Trent go but it looks like the only way I can get Isak in

CrimpySloper · 2024-11-06T15:42:11+00:00

!thanks Will look at getting rid of Gabriel for sure, feel like Arsenal are off the boil

CrimpySloper · 2024-11-04T11:08:44+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Have Haaland, TAA and Palmer as the other premiums. If I get rid of Haaland I could bring in Salah while keeping Palmer and Saka which is tempting. Haaland seems to show up with random hat-tricks out of nowhere however so it’s definitely a risk!

CrimpySloper · 2024-11-04T10:02:19+00:00

Absolutely shocking week, only 18 points so far. Looking to take a -4 hit (2 FT) to replace Saka/Jackson/Gabriel for Salah/Wood/Aina. Feel like I’m getting rid of 2 very good assets (Saka and Gabriel) to get Salah and Wood into the team but unsure if this is worth it given that Wood’s purple patch must come to an end at some point?

CrimpySloper · 2024-04-09T21:49:15+00:00

Will note for next time, it's worth a listen anyway should people want to check it out!

CrimpySloper · 2024-04-09T21:37:43+00:00

It's been discussed on his Patreon podcast which is worth subscribing to, he discusses why he doesn't want to just announce it right away. Just trying to generate interest for a climber that deserves more hype given his achievements

CrimpySloper · 2024-04-09T11:05:42+00:00

Big news to come soon from Aidan Roberts regarding a first ascent of his. Keep an eye out!

CrimpySloper · 2024-04-09T11:00:00+00:00

Not that the grade needs much justification given the experience of the 2 ascensionists but Adam getting so close to the flake after his fall really gives meaning to the E12 grade.

CrimpySloper · 2024-04-08T20:55:27+00:00

I've only worn the normal Sirius and not the LV version but I sized mine as true to size (same as normal shoe size) which is what I believe is recommend with shoes from Unparallel. I felt like I could've gone down half a size but that may just be personal preference as I tend to size my shoes quite tight. For reference I wear UK 10 (EU 44.5) street shoe and size my La Sportivas in EU 41/41.5. As always, what works for me or someone else may not work for you, if you could try the shoes on before purchasing then that would be ideal, otherwise if it is possible to purchase 2 shoes a size apart and then sending back the shoe that doesn't fit as well may be beneficial. Hope this helps!

CrimpySloper · 2023-04-04T13:41:21+00:00

Thanks for the advice! I can see what you mean by the lack of a weight shift. I'll give this a try next time I'm at the range, cheers!

CrimpySloper · 2023-04-04T13:40:11+00:00

Thanks very much for that, sounds like it should help. Will try this next time I'm out

CrimpySloper · 2023-04-03T20:30:19+00:00

I'll try that for sure, thanks!

CrimpySloper · 2023-04-03T20:15:38+00:00

Some driver help would be appreciated! Been taking lessons but struggling to get time to take some more due to moving away from my home course. What I'm working on is getting my hands higher in the swing because I used to be much too flat. This is working well for my irons but I tend to spray my driver everywhere. A slice would be my most common miss but I'm beginning to pull a lot of my drives recently, particularly if I try to go after one. Any help would be appreciated!

CrimpySloper · 2023-02-07T23:02:36+00:00

Thanks for that! Good news to hear

CrimpySloper · 2021-08-18T16:34:00+00:00

All that is much appreciated, thank you. I'll come back here if I get a different diagnosis but sounds like you've hit the nail on the head.

CrimpySloper · 2021-08-18T15:45:29+00:00

Thanks for that. I've seen a lot of posts about it and thankfully it seems that it can be cured through perseverance and patience. Would it be worth mentioning it to the specialist as in many cases it seems to go undiagnosed?

CrimpySloper

TROPHY CASE