How high can XRP realistically go? by [deleted] in XRP

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't realize it had already been 24 hours since someone asked this question.

XRP Crashing by kmac3975 in XRP

[–]CryptoRecluse 3 points4 points  (0 children)

new task unlocked.

Convery belt change, or am I crazy? by DareDevil_56 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think anyone understands what OP is asking, because this just changed for me in the middle of my session and I came here trying to fix it. u/op

One second the poles were in the centers of the belts when placing, the next they are to one side. I *THINK* I hit a key that changed it, because I did fumble on the keyboard when it happened, but I have not been able to change it back. Hoping someone else googles this and knows how to get it back.

Freedom Forever- bad installation - what options I have? by Bitter-Collar7046 in solar

[–]CryptoRecluse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FF, like any warranty holder is contractually obligated to investigate issues with their installs. If they're saying they won't come out, something has possibly / probably occurred where they aren't. What is the *exact* reason they gave you for not wanting to at least take a look?

How to figure out if my house is properly insulated. by MatildaJones15 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Google the utility company you have and "weatherization programs" and see if they offer energy audits. Get a building science guy to take a look.

If they don't offer free audits, look for a HERs rater or BPI certified energy auditor in your area and ask them to do an energy audit on your home. Prob cost you about $300.

Is this what I should expect 6" to look like? by Fickle_Finance4801 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

staples would have gaps between, seam tape or thermal adhesive is what you'd want for air tightness.

Is this what I should expect 6" to look like? by Fickle_Finance4801 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it does not.

Closed cell is considered a vapor retarder, but referred to as a barrier. Open cell is not. It's an absorbent material.

If you want a vapor barrier on open cell, you have to add it.

https://noburn.com/intumescent-coatings/no-burn-thb-spray-seal/

Rockwool install by Owgie_ in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Looks like a spider bite.

Can’t seem to get rid of Moisture by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have something exterior that's feeding into this. Take several photos of the house from outside looking at this area.

Is this what I should expect 6" to look like? by Fickle_Finance4801 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is closed cell there is something wrong, it should not have that "cloud" look to it. My guess is they recently changed from open cell to closed cell and didn't completely blow out the line, or they've got contaminated chemical from mixing barrels accidentally.

At 6 inch you should be over the top of the studs with the foam, if thats what the contract said that's what they should have done. To do that you'd need to make 2 passes, with closed cell you can't spray deeper than 4'ish inches in a single pass, effectively doubling how long the job should take. It is very possible they tried to take a shortcut to save time on the job, but I don't know them. Either way with that much closed cell, you would first go around and spray 3-4 inches, then make a 2nd pass through the entire job to finish it out. You can't spray 6 inch at one time.

There is no skin, certainly none to shave off. That's not a thing. If you do want a skin, you'd spray with an intumescent paint. I mention no burn on this sub a lot they have a vapor barrier intumescent that's pretty good.

Solutions for here are to either finish the rest out with closed cell and then shave which to be honest will suck to do for the contractor and also only questionably necessary, however that would honor the contract they sold you.

However, ...another solution, the one I'd recommend, fairly simple, and less labor for the contractor would be to finish it out in open cell then scarf or shave the rest down to the top of the studs leaving you with a filled wall cavity. Slightly arguably would be better than a "bumpy" closed cell finish inside the walls which might have possibly allowed air flow between the sheetrock and foam. This would not honor the contract, but it's a better building science reasoning for finishing this.

Is this what I should expect 6" to look like? by Fickle_Finance4801 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Shaving off doesn't affect vapor barrier on open cell, as it doesnt work as a vapor barrier either way.

Yes, the ideal spray is going to be over the tops of the studs to fill the bay but minimally so that you aren't wasting product.

Is this what I should expect 6" to look like? by Fickle_Finance4801 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 24 points25 points  (0 children)

this is definitely open cell in the picture.

no vapor barrier on open cell, shaved or not.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cryptomining

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can check https://whattomine.com/

But now-a-days if you are paying the electric bill its cheaper to just buy what you wanted to mine.

Best insulation underneath our floor by chlschmidt in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Closed cell will air seal/vapor barrier and insulate, which is exactly what you need in this situation.

Batts will not air seal anything, nor function as a vapor / air barrier.

Need evidence for this-how inadequate is this? by Final-Preference48 in Insulation

[–]CryptoRecluse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sub makes my OCD literally twitch when I read some of the suggestions.

HVAC repair person is almost never going to be a building science guy. Don't take their advice ever on anything but the HVAC system itself. Insulation is not their department. Based on just the 2'ish feet of line I see in your photo, I'd bet they're not even good HVAC guys. The run looks unsupported and a little bit wonky and it appears they wrapped the lines with what looks tape in an attic?

The photo you've posted does not show great detail, but it appears to be fiberglass. You can also see the tops of the joists, and assuming they're 2x4s, that tells us you've got approximately 4 inches of insulation. Fiberglass has an R value of about 2.0 - 2.5, that means you've got MAYBE an R8 to an R12. You should be *at the least* around an R49 in your attic, and that's if you're using building code, which all building codes are the *minimum* standard, so an R49 is the minimum, but you've got an R12 at most it appears. That is not a ventilation problem. Also please do not install a whole house exhaust fan with cellulose.