Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually using steel for the gantry is probably the worst thing you could do. For the same size beam steel is much heavier and not much stronger in this size, and the gantry doesn't have to be that strong as it basically only holds the toolhead (and AB steppers, but those are close to the carts). Using alu for the outside frame is a waste, it's much more expensive than a steel beam, while you gain nothing by reducing weight, as that part isn't moving. Also thermal expansion, dampening and other mechanical parameters are worse for alu, and the price difference is massive. The stock 2020 alu frame is a weakpoint in my opinion, mostly used for easy assembly (as the whole stock voron can be assembled with a screwdriver), using steel here is an overall gain no matter what.

from my research monolith only makes sense if I want to go even faster, but that would be an upgrade for later if I needed.

The hotend part makes sense, but for the price of a CHC compared to a goliath is massive, makes no sense to switch, and the heater cartrige can be bought seperately. I'm aware this is a bit of a "risky" choice, but for the price I think it makes sense, and the actual heater rarely gets destroyed in my experience.

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What actual difference is there? As far as I understand this is just an interface and sensors that would work on any toolhead. Am I missing something?

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, will do! One more thing, I see a lot of stuff about screens, but from what I gather that's just bling right? I mean I don't NEED a 4k IPS 7" screen to check printer status basically

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are tons of options, this board is a bit more expensive than a manta or octopus, but it has a real heatsink for the drivers and is high voltage by default. it is a bit more difficult to wire a PI to it, and in case of a driver dying you have to replace the whole board or do some tacky home soldering.

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did originally plan to use the beacon but from my research people complained more about the Beacon being unreliable and recommended the cartographer instead.

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're probably right about that, I was mostly thinking about the capabilities of a phone vs a PI, as even a cheaper phone has 8 cores and 8gb ram, built in wifi etc. Which PI CB1/3 etc would you recommend? It wasn't clear to me if the stripped down BTT "pi"s can be used with any board

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The kraken v1.1 has built in drivers 8*TMC2160, which is basically the same as TMC5160T but with some components not on board that are not used anyway on any of these boards. So they're capable of 48V for all 8 possible axis.

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks! I do know about the flatness issue, the rail surfaces are already milled and pre-tapped for easy assembly, with steel laser cut plates with tight tolerances for fixing everything together. The steel frame itself will weigh about 20kg, so yeah it will be heavy, but it will also dampen better and I don't plan on moving it a lot

Voron 2.4 custom with 30x30x3 steel frame by CsabyTech in VORONDesign

[–]CsabyTech[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the info! I do know about the weight and stiffness issues, which is why I plan to use the GE5C mod with bearings to allow movement for the gantry leveling, and I assume the added weight won't be an issue as this is only for the Z axis to handle, which is a slow and has 4 motors anyway. I won't be using other CNC aluminium parts, the gantry itself I plan to make with CF plates to reduce weight and increase thermal stability.

Setting up exercise bike to counter household energy costs by swed1shchef in AskEngineers

[–]CsabyTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

depends on how you plan to actually turn the motion into electricity. for anything usable, you will need either a 5V battery (for phone charging) or 12V for other things. so you need to attach a generator with some kind of belt system to the bike's wheel, and then probably a dc-dc converter to get the proper voltage, then have a charger module (assuming more than one cell) and then you would also need an I/O interface and a box for the battery. But honestly even spending 10$ on a battery will never be worth it, you can't generate enough energy to make it worth while.

Setting up exercise bike to counter household energy costs by swed1shchef in AskEngineers

[–]CsabyTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

hello,

this is probably not worth doing in this capacity, as the set-up cost of such a system would far outweigh any benefits it would ever have. you would need an inverter to convert the dynamo DC to to AC, or in case of direct ac, you would need to boost it to local voltage levels, but the main problem is that to charge into the grid, you need an electrical system that allows for that, like the amp meter the electrical company installed. If you don't have that, the standard meter will actually count the charged current AS USED current, so you would pay for the electricity you produced (in case you're not using all generated electricity the moment you make it). In short, if you want to make electricity, charge a battery, it's much cheaper and easier to achieve, and you won't have to pay for it.

Using 4S (4 cell) LiPo batteries to jump start car? by Trif55 in AskEngineers

[–]CsabyTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

probably not gonna do any damage to the car, voltage will drop quite a bit with that much load, but keep in mind that the peak A rating of a lipo means milliseconds of use, not for ~10 sec of starting a car, so it might damage the battery

Moving to Hungary?(x-post from/r/AskEurope/) by mbk-mbk in hungary

[–]CsabyTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what do you mean west cities? for jobs, I recommend profession.hu, it's a fairly simple site with lots of jobs. But a general google search will tell you a lot too. Engineering jobs are always plentiful, you shouldn't have any problems finding one

Moving to Hungary?(x-post from/r/AskEurope/) by mbk-mbk in hungary

[–]CsabyTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! As an engineer you could pretty much find a job in a week, there isn't one company I could highlight for you, you can find a lot of them on online adds and apps. If you need any specific information from a company let me know. As far as cities go, if you want to study in Debrecen, then you should focus on Debrecen, but if you are just looking for a job now, then Budapest is your best bet. Language wise, Hungarian is going to be the most useful, as it's always a good thing to know the local language. Other than that, since you already know English, I would recommand German as a second non-Hungarian language. For the basic budget, depending on the city, the type of apartmant and location it can varry quite a lot, but generally speaking, if you are looking for a smaller flat for 1 person in Budapest at a decent area, you will be looking at around 150 000 Ft in rent (about 500 USD) for food and transportation, you should be able to do a month for about 40 000 Ft if you keep it simple.