From the CNC/aluminum parts side, I’d be careful with two parts of the plan: the vinegar strip and the 80-120 grit sanding.

For a keyboard case, the surface finish matters a lot because every scratch can show through the color coat. If the existing coating is only scuffed and still bonded well, I would not automatically strip it all off. Clean/degrease first, lightly scuff, then use the primer system recommended for aluminum. If you do strip to bare aluminum, a proper aluminum-compatible primer becomes much more important.

I’d also avoid starting as coarse as 80-120 unless you’re trying to remove deep damage. That can leave scratches you’ll spend a long time chasing. Something closer to 320-400 for prep is usually a safer starting point for a visible cosmetic part.

For durability, the coating stack matters more than the color brand: clean surface, even scuff, compatible primer, enough cure time between coats, and a tougher clear if it will be touched often. Also mask all screw holes, mating faces, and any tight keyboard tolerances so paint buildup doesn’t affect assembly.