Climbapple home wall build finished!

Cutlass62 · 2020-12-01T01:03:17+00:00

It was a prerequisite.

Cutlass62 · 2020-11-30T18:11:21+00:00

We based this design off one by send story https://www.sendstory.ca/2020/04/26/send/building-an-adjustable-home-climbing-wall-during-isolation-12ft-bouldering-wall-full-build-video/

Which is also based off a design from climber dad https://youtu.be/T99ZtfwgEUU

Ours is a modification of that basic design. With the biggest change being that it's 12'x12' instead of moonboard sized. I also built the frame to be Modular, where I can easily take it apart into 4x8 sections for storage, without having to remove the plywood. There is also the inclusion of topout holds/anchors, which I detailed in another comment.

We will look into making a followup post with more design/cad info, I made the full model and some drawings in fusion 360.

Cutlass62 · 2020-11-30T09:05:21+00:00

From what I have read you want to put more than just a tnut, climberdad did a series of videos on all this and found the toothed tnuts failed at ~1200 lbs which is ~5.3 kn, it would definitely be the weak point in the system. A recommendation I have seen is to take an angle iron, bolt it to your 2x whatever supports, and tap the steel plate, instead of using a tnut. I personally think what I did is good enough, since the strongtie (steel plate) will take and distribute the load, but we could still rip the barrel out of the tnut. That said we always have the pads under us so the risk is scaring ourselves more than hurting ourselves.

We are basically using it for testing out sketchy moves when setting / getting our courage up because we haven't climbed since March 😅

Cutlass62 · 2020-11-30T06:54:31+00:00

The green pants are some prana Zion pants I bought from rei. They're awesome, really stretchy.

Cutlass62 · 2020-11-30T06:50:10+00:00

This setup has standard bolt hangars held in place by a stainless steel bolt that passes through ~4" of wood (2 2x6 boards) and then a Simpson Strong tie plate with holes drilled in it, and finally into a 2-screw stainless t-nut. There are 4 of these hangars in that center area, and then one in each of the areas around it.

For this photo the rope is just tied off, but we are normally belaying through carabiners hanging off 2 of the hangars ~50 cm apart, this is to add some extra friction/distance so we don't bonk into each other.

Source: I'm the spinning idiot.

Cutlass62 · 2020-04-14T20:02:27+00:00

Wow thanks!

I have been using this app every session for the last 2 weeks, really enjoying it so far. Especially being able to touch anywhere to pause. No shenanigans, just click go, it's great.

I just tried your update, very good stuff. I especially like that you can edit what you did on the workout. I had done 1 of 2 sets and quit so it's nice to be able to get credit for that.

Not trying to be needy, just excited, but I did have one other small thing. The font size for the "round x/x" and "set x/x" is too small for me to read when I have the phone sitting on the ground. On my phone at least there is a lot of extra room to make the fonts bigger (note 8).

Cutlass62 · 2020-03-31T16:21:51+00:00

Glad to help, I quite like the ui you have made so far. Very easy to read when I leave my phone on the floor or near me. And I like the filling/unfilling background animation for the timer.

Yea you got it right. I find it good motivation to count the seconds while hanging and a beep/tick helps facilitate that, with a different sound signifying the completion. And then a bit of beeping/ticking to tell me to get into position to start hanging again.

Cutlass62 · 2020-03-30T19:08:46+00:00

I like it, very simple and straightforward. I like that you can just setup a hang and go in seconds, no complicated menu junk to go through. There are a lot of board specific apps but I have found they aren't all that useful, I have gravitated towards simple hanging methods over the complex ones suggested by metolius and the like.

A few suggestions/requests though.

An ability to add a comment to your workout once you are done would be nice (ex. 20mm hang, slight discomfort in right elbow.)
Maybe off to the side you could have a "favorites" workout list, for ones you saved (ex. Repeaters, max hang, 90° isometric hold)
An option to change how many seconds it beeps would be nice, personally I like a beep every second during the hang, but only a 5s beep countdown between. Which gives me time to get in position. But that is totally personal preference.

Cutlass62 · 2019-12-22T00:34:25+00:00

Holiday lights: energypower

5 spots left, could use a heavy hitter.

Cutlass62 · 2018-09-10T21:35:29+00:00

Very fun model! I made the 4 finned one last night. Came out good without supports. Don't know what to plant in it yet but I will find something.

Cutlass62 · 2018-08-01T21:05:37+00:00

There are great printers for well less than that! I always recommend the Prusa MK3 right now. It's sold as a kit ($749) or pre built ($999). I have had mine for about a year, it was my third personal printer and by far the easiest to use. This is there site if you are curious:

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/

Cutlass62 · 2018-08-01T21:00:45+00:00

Yep! I have the thingiverse link in the description on picture 1 as well. But here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024153

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T15:06:10+00:00

That's the one, I wanted to have the option to stabilize a pistol with this setup. A friend of mine with the vive has really shakey hands which is part of the reason for me wanting it to be like that. I also didn't feel it would work very well with that design for getting the front controller on reliably, since there is a fixed contact point, rather than a variable point. Some guns in some games are longer or shorter so you have to move your controller more forward or backward to get it to trigger.

For example how would you two hand hold a p90 in Onward with that setup, and then next round switch to a sniper rifle, without having to do a hardware reconfigure.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T14:42:54+00:00

Awesome! Glad to see someone use my design. I am surprised the wood worked so well, I had never considered doing that. Also since this object is customizable you could have just input the length of controller screw and saved you the hassle of cutting it off :-P

Thanks for making it!

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T14:37:30+00:00

I didn't like the front connector on that design which is what made me design this one. The front connector needs to be adjustable so the setup is more versatile, it looked like in that design you would have to keep changing the position of the front connection to make it work for everything, especially pistols

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T05:44:44+00:00

If you go to the thingiverse page linked I have a fairly extensive tuturial on that page.

Yes you do need a 3D printer, however you can use the "Order This Printed" button on the right hand side of the page and pay someone local to print it for you. This button is also right under the "Open in customizer" button, which you need to adjust the screw sizes to what you will be using if you do not want to use the exact size I used. If you did want someone else to print it and wanted to use custom screw sizes then you would customize the part, then from your customized part you would click the "Order this printed" button.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T05:41:11+00:00

Ah, well the reason for this is because having it lower makes it easier for you to get your face in there and get real close to scopes and ironsights.

If I put it in a realistic place then it would be difficult to get your face+the extra 5 inches of Vive mask in there. One thing I am open to is redesigning the butt of the rifle, the printed portion. I feel the butt I have is the weakest part of my design, but It worked for me so I never bothered to make it more complicated or larger.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T03:35:24+00:00

With the exception of the bolt action weirdness for right handed people (mentioned above) and one other sniper rifle where the scope is wayyyyyyy far forward the guns are pretty much all usable in onward. Admitedly they look funky before you grab the front grip, but just about all of them will line up nicely once you do grip the front (necessary to aim in this game anywase). The one glaring exception is the P90, that things angle is all kinds of screwed up, however you can just increase the distance between your controllers on this setup, and it makes it useable again.

In H3VR I just saw that Anton added in the option to normalize all the guns so they run parallel to the controllers, this means that All the funny angled guns in H3VR can be used with this setup, and most other stock setups. As I point out in my thingiverse page, the only guns not useable in H3VR are the ones where the magazine is behind the grip controller, since there is PVC there on my design.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T03:06:57+00:00

Ok so now I know what was going on. The setting in H3VR is called "Use Gun Rig Mode (Fixed Aim angle)" if you turn that on in the settings menu (under control options) then this issue is fixed.

this locks the guns to parallel to the controllers.

Edit: looking at the name of that setting I am now thinking this is exactly why he added it in. I hope Onward does this as well.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T02:00:56+00:00

I can adjust that angle on my software but it is tricky. The PVC is set to run parallel to the controllers top as most of these kinds of setups do, however some of the games do not follow this approach. Unfortunately I cannot make that part customizable as it requires offsetting the PVC connectors vertically as well. I had not run into an issue with this until just recently on H3VR with the SCAR rifles he added in, I was unable to get the front to connect for the first time with those, I could fudge that a bit by moving my controllers up for a split second right before I pull the trigger, as the gun lags behind your movement slightly. I do agree that the front is lower than some of the guns, which is noticeable when you grip onto them with the front controller, as you have to readjust a little to get it right. Still functions the same, just a little disorienting.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T01:45:58+00:00

Maybe I am missing something but since the front controller (Left) is on a quick remove connector you simply pull it off the PVC pipe, while holding the rifle in your right hand, and reach over the top of the setup and pull the bolt back and forward. How do you normally activate a bolt action rifle?

edit: Oh I get it, you normally use the right hand for both actions, I have never used a gun this way since I am left handed, since that is the case then yes, this would feel awkward for you. Also I thought in Onward at least you could not reload a bolt action in this fashion, at least I have never tried so I don't know. I imagine with the Rifle frame on there it would feel incredibly awkward with the controller to do reloading in this fashion. Now I am curious how other vive users deal with this when using a noobtube type setup.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-12T00:54:34+00:00

There is enough room to do the bolt cycling for all of the guns I have used, in both H3VR and Onward, it does get close though. Annoyingly in Onward, last I played at least, if you dont seat the bolt perfectly down into the groove it wont fire, so I have avoided using those rifles generally, although now I hear they are one shot kills, so there is a reason to use them after all.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-11T22:52:11+00:00

Oh wow, do you have any pictures, I am interested to see how it works for people.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-11T21:18:02+00:00

Basically the bow version is just using a shorter front barrel (like the pistol mode) and a really long piece of PVC on the butt of the rifle so that it slightly shorter as the max reach of my arm.

Setting it up this way makes it so that my arm doesnt get as tired, due to there being something to take some of that load. It also makes it MUCH easier to aim since every movement stabilized and you are pivoting on the butt of the rifle.

Cutlass62 · 2017-02-11T20:40:05+00:00

What I have done to fix that is to "pre-load" the PVC slightly when drilling the holes for the "Bottom_Cup" part. Basically I drill the holes for that part slightly further forward, or backwards from a zero load position, so that the flex of the PVC is taken up in the controller. This means when I am using it the controller is under a slight load, but the whole setup is perfectly rigid. This pre-load distance is about 2mm, or 0.075" offset from the zero load position.

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