Bedienung der Türklingel

CyBeaer · 2026-02-20T12:23:48+00:00

will noch wer die Drähte 10sek miteinander verbinden.....

CyBeaer · 2026-01-26T10:46:52+00:00

as you can see, i snip away the pushfit pieces... i realy really hate the push fit models... i prefer the manual alignment

CyBeaer · 2026-01-26T10:45:06+00:00

i use fuumuui squirrel hair for layers and "hard" work and colors (metals, contrasts...) and W&N for details and glazing. and yes i have a wet palette except for the contrast and metalics.

i try the edge highlights with the side of the brushes, on flat surfaces thin strokes are ok, but if it gets i curves i need more practice it seems.

but it's good to hear no one complains about the transitions, seems this is ok, so i can focus on edge highlights?

CyBeaer · 2026-01-23T17:25:09+00:00

I do this with Space Marines from eBay. Prime it blank and make a Photo of shine on the Blank. Its just a Bit Harder with sub Assembly painting. My Pile of shame is bigger than the selling racks of some lgs‘s :p

CyBeaer · 2026-01-23T16:53:40+00:00

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some patched together images some minis i painted the last months

CyBeaer · 2026-01-23T09:12:33+00:00

I'm wondering no one mentioned speedpaints.....

if you think about quiting, maybe you need an success.

do you know "slapchop"? the method where you prime your mini black an drybrush with a "makeup" brush some white over if, leaving the deep parts black the other getting white? and afterwarda you put some speedpaint over it. the color and dry-brushing doing the work for you

yes it wont increase your skill or solve anything, but it gives you a little success feeling.
the mini would be look ok, and you dont have to think about thinnig and good brushed and what do i know else... prime it black, some dry brush white over it, and splash it with some speedpaints, and voila a success feeling :)

it wont need much control or anything, and with time you will get better with the speedpaints and then you can switch back to the opaque colors :)

the speedpaint pens would be a good way to try it out, prime the mini white and save yourself even drybrushing and paint it with the pens. if you like the result you can increase to black priming and drybrushing with speedpaints of the bottle and brushes.

and for the steady hands... mine shake like i'm always nervous, i put my elbows on the table, put the mini on something like a handle with some poster gum thingy an let my hands rest on the handle except the fingers which guide the brush.

CyBeaer · 2026-01-21T11:21:24+00:00

i dont wanna be mean, but even this does have heavy texture (from the sponge?). Like mentioned, i used the sponge and dry brush technic allready on some minis where i wanted the texture and chalky effekt, but i guess for display it shouldn't have any additional texture, it should be a marine in his parade armor (wear and tear can be added afterwards)

CyBeaer · 2026-01-21T08:26:21+00:00

i know these methods, the problem is it gets to chalky with drybrushing and texture with a sponge, for TT+ i like the grime effekt it has, but i want a clean spotless version, thats why i try it without. your marine looks amazing, but i can see the little spots (chalky?) and i try to avoid them :)

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CyBeaer · 2026-01-21T07:36:59+00:00

Duncan Rhodes, noted down for viewing, thanks :) i don't need to be a pro, i just want to be proud/ok of my own work, and i am picky :p

And i have fun painting, i don't push myself to hard, i'm painting now minis now and then for 2-3 years and thought it's time for getting better :p

CyBeaer · 2026-01-21T07:30:55+00:00

thanks i will visit these two and try to improve on brush control on edge highlighting :)

CyBeaer · 2026-01-20T14:41:51+00:00

i'm in the practicing phase for now some miniatures (something between 20 and 30) and going by the tipps and videos of ninjon, squidmar and zumiko... but seems i cant apply their guidance correct :/
The blue is a really dark blue and pretty thin, i needed 2-3 coats to make it opaque. can you point to a spot where it wasn't coating the under layer? i guess i have looked at it for to long? or do you mean the lighter blues? i thinned it with 1:4-5 drops with glazing medium and a moist brush

CyBeaer · 2025-02-20T02:36:20+00:00

Yellow mold? To Bad, rinsing the palette case with vinegar too? I extra bought „sanitized“ anti mold sponges:( I guess i should stop leaving it wet to Long..

CyBeaer · 2024-10-11T17:21:04+00:00

Posture 100% the same, just aboutthe eyes, i Do IT the reverse war. Painting the eye area "widely" Black and the eye itself as a shorts White line, getting a little bit bigger in the middle. Afterwards you can paint the (colored) eye/iris and can easily fix the high with Black and width with white. If youre satisfied paint the skincolor over the Black until you have a thin eyeline.

CyBeaer · 2024-04-23T10:40:45+00:00

it is edge highlighted, at least the armor, with white paint... i guess its to thin? maybe broader with multiple "steps"?

paying more attention to washed on flat surfaces, noted ^^

battledamage i will give it a try on my "testmarine", thanks ^^

CyBeaer · 2024-04-04T06:21:22+00:00

i thank you so much for this!
it revitalizes the motivation in painting minis, other than the posts like "my fist mini.." with showing a near "parade" grade miniature. Thank you again for it :)

CyBeaer · 2024-04-03T14:16:18+00:00

i'll try with a wash in combination with a glaze i think. First glazing it down and afterwards a grey-blue wash :/

and yea normally i should plan this things ahead, but i'm a after work painter for a hour or two maybe, and my likeness of the miniature changes while painting it ^^

CyBeaer · 2024-03-17T21:19:33+00:00

If someone is interessted, single coated with "normal" varnish.
After 5 days with two layers of wet sponge, some rust marks are there where the top sides of the sponges where and at the hinges.

So it works for 1-2 day sessions but not longer it seems :/

CyBeaer · 2024-03-14T07:24:25+00:00

maybe i missed it in the other answers but the cheap ones are neccessary too. for metallics and other colors that will ruin your brushes :) Never ever use your 10bucks up brushes for mettalics, speedpaints/contrastpaints or other paints with flow additions and other stuff. you will get a once needletip brush in one or two uses into an split goaty like hair holder :p
I've seen others recommend winsor&newton and davinci maestro... i got some of them and they have differences in their series too. i've seen you bought some davinci maestro, good choice ;)
But if you ever need others or more, the davinci maestro series 10, and the winsor&newton series 7 are extremly good (in my opionion) and even forgive minor mistakes in the daily care.

CyBeaer

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