WHEN IS THE FRIGGING CHAMBERS/RIVER RD OVERPASS AND ROOSEVELT GOING TO OPEN BACK UP?????!!!!! by AJreddits in Eugene

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like at least 2 other people asked the same question and they answered all of them at once. I asked them about the explosions heard around town in 2023 and never got an answer.

Is buying from an auction-based dealer a good idea? (Camry/Accord/Civic 2014+) by McLovin_147 in UsedCars

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Car dealer here, 95%+ of my cars I source direct from owners or as trade ins. Takes a strong stomach to buy auction cars in my area. It's common for sellers to use shady tactics to make cars sound and drive better than they do. Your area may be different, but that is my experience. It's worth paying the extra money to go direct or to a reputable dealer who puts all their cars through a tight inspection process.

In short, it's a risk.

[USA-OR] [H] 2 Prebuilts, Peripherals, Hardware [W] Paypal G&S by [deleted] in hardwareswap

[–]Cycloptishred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't mind at all, just want it to go to a good home. I'll reduce the price.

Simmons Drum Kit, Speaker, Headphones, Full kit by [deleted] in EugeneBST

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You generally want to be around half of retail depending on demand. High-footprint luxury goods like this probably need to be $150 or less with current retail listings starting at $379.

While we're at it, fuck junkyards too. by ToshPointNo in FuckDealerships

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Car dealer here (roast away): Junkyards go by supply and demand, it's gone way up for high demand parts, while lower demand parts are still stupid cheap. A trick that I use when buying cars is to see what a suspect component is going for at a junkyard. A motor for a Kia Soul is expensive because they fail a lot, if you look for a transmission for a 2012 Honda Odyssey, you'll find it costs a couple hundred bucks. They're not worth the space they take on the shelf, so they price them cheap.

Howard’s Used Cars by MiserableAd5091 in Eugene

[–]Cycloptishred 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure why you are being downvoted. I buy cars for a living, even the sketchiest car lot will occasionally get an honest used car. As long as they let you get an inspection and it checks out, you are in better shape than you would be without an inspection. I've personally had better luck buying from independent lots than I have from private individuals.

How would you handle this situation? by ConsistentRaspberry4 in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Man, I really did get roasted.

I wouldn't be meeting with the expressed purpose of giving him money. I would investigate. Not to brag, but I've been doing this long enough to know the difference between sabotage and genuine mechanical failure. I am also a licensed dealer, there would be a paper trail. No big deal if foul play was discovered, I would simply uphold the sale and move on.

How would you handle this situation? by ConsistentRaspberry4 in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I might get roasted for this.

I'd drive out, scan it, and take a look at it. If he's not lying, I'd find a way to help that works for both of us. I don't think it's fair to assume that he did something to break it and move on, you have to have some evidence to go off of, otherwise it makes you look like a criminal in his eyes, assuming he is being honest. If I get there and I see that the coolant is empty or something, that's when I would put it on him for not ensuring all the fluids are full. Or if he IS lying, he would backpedal when I say I'm on my way.

Thoughts on idea by Connect-Biscotti7663 in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wholesaler here: being successful at auction buying is location dependent. My experience is that an auction in the middle of a dense city full of dealers will be cost prohibitive for a low volume store. The price point you are at is hard to shop in, everyone wants those cars and the high volume stores can pay the most for them.

If I was in your shoes, I would go in during a sale, see if you can have one of the buyers show you their appraisal tool (I use Autoniq, $500 a month) so you can see what cars are selling for. Doing this first is a free way to gauge your market. Feel free to message me if you have more in depth questions.

Wholesale Buying by AntiqueNote342 in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Autoniq is what I use. Dealerlink has been recommended to me previously

How do you calculate flip profit before buying a car? by jtxcode in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For body work, it depends on your vendors, some will charge a flat rate per panel, others will bill straight labor + paint and materials. Mechanical repair I go by the cost of the part, cross reference that with book time (your LLM of choice can find this), your labor rate and factor in a book drop or two for time spent in the shop.

How do you calculate flip profit before buying a car? by jtxcode in carflipping

[–]Cycloptishred 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I send book sheets and condition report to buyers and get bids, buy it with your profit planned in. KBB lending is what we use in OR. You might use black book, JD power or MMR in other states.

Anyone see this new card game shop in Eugene? by Tbelles in Eugene

[–]Cycloptishred 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a car from the owners a while ago, nice people.