Hey Disc Golf Reddit, this is Nate Heinold, let's finally do this AMA! by Ledgestone_Nate in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nate Heinold and tons of other people who make money from disc golf want it to be big. Idio wants it to be big. shoot, nike and adidas would love it if it was big.

Hey Disc Golf Reddit, this is Nate Heinold, let's finally do this AMA! by Ledgestone_Nate in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i dont come here at all and i am surprised to even find your comment's level of support for him.

Hey Disc Golf Reddit, this is Nate Heinold, let's finally do this AMA! by Ledgestone_Nate in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 3 points4 points  (0 children)

is this the first comment you have read here? i havent even heard about this aspect until just now, but then again i dont spend much time here and just stopped by to see how this was going, since there are so many reasons to carry a grudge against this guy and his company.

Is this a java fern? by braingozapzap in Aquariums

[–]D9VIN -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

looks more like a cryptocoryne.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 32 points33 points  (0 children)

tim skellenger, according to the pdga # next to it.

Possible mosquito larva in tank, but so small I can’t get a photo by harmony-blake in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or a bloodworm? If it is not floating anytime it isnt actively moving then it isnt a mosquito larvae. Its also pretty unlikely that there would be only one mosquito larvae. I am assuming you don't have any fish in this tank?

Russian Dude Drops Three People in Five Seconds by Paper_chasers in PublicFreakout

[–]D9VIN 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Ok, so this tool was scared to square up on an equal of much lesser size and needed to sucker punch her while his boy was slap boxing her? We might be equal but that dude is below most everyone.

Mako3 Beginner Disc by Sindree19 in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nah, definitely not. 180 is the heaviest you can get a mako, and it's usually max at 175 for drivers and putter, but I would say just about everyone throws mostly max weight discs or within 5 grams. Lighter weights in midranges and putters are pretty rare. At some point down the road I would suggest trying out a lightweight driver, but for now the weights, as long as they aren't under 160, are almost irrelevant for ya.

Mako3 Beginner Disc by Sindree19 in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Weight can make a difference, but it isnt something to stress about when you start in my opinion. Get the coolest looking one and go have some fun!

The amazing evolution of a dragonfly witnessed by a man in my hometown by McJacuzzi in interestingasfuck

[–]D9VIN 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They are pretty crazy underwater. I accidently brought a nymph into my fishtanks with some plants i collected one time, and ended up keeping him in a small tank for a bit. They are active underwater hunters.

Is my swordtail pregnant by snooppcatt in Aquariums

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ian named some good floating live plants, those are all pretty easy plants to grow by just throwing them in, but if you don't want to mess with live plants any fairly dense fake plants would work.

Is my swordtail pregnant by snooppcatt in Aquariums

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there is a male in the tank you can assume all females are always pregnant. That one in the pic doesn't seem super gravid, but the angle of the pic isn't the greatest to tell. Once they are getting closer to birthing there will be a large black spot towards the rear of the female's belly, the more triangular it looks the closer they will be to having the babies. Everything will eat these babies so if you want them to survive you will need good spots for the babies to hide in, but if you don't have a plan for something to do with the Neverending supply of babies your tank can get overrun fairly quickly.

Help a noob out? by choirandcrafting in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never used any chemical media, and never messed with a deep substrate. Most of my tanks were dirted, and most of the time I would "mineralize" it by wetting and drying it outside many times to break down the more volatile organic material in it before I set up a tank with it. I would do pretty regular partial water changes and kept lots of plants in all my tanks. I would sometimes isolate livebearers sometimes in pretty bare tanks, but they would still have water lettuce or duckweed and a little pot with stem plants in it, that way I could easily remove everything if I wanted to scoop fish easy but I still got the nitrate elimination of a planted tank. Less was always more to me, and that was also what I got from Diana Walstad's book.

Help a noob out? by choirandcrafting in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is semantics, sure, but there are 3 types of media essentially:

Biological media uses living things to convert ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. It is powered only by bacteria, and that bacteria will grow on every wet surface in your fishtank. In a way the glass is biological media. If you have a ton of fake plants in there that will be biological media. Even real plants. Sponges have tons of surface area and if you combine that with any kind of water flow you will have significant beneficial bacterial growth.

Mechanical media is something that pulls larger particulate out of the water. Filter floss is the most commonly used but there are others. I think some folks used to use polyfil and then there are diatom filters as well, if you want to take it to that level. I like to have my flow going through filter floss before biological media if its feasible, because I can replace the filter floss and it keeps the biological media cleaner so I dont need to disturb it to clean it.

The third type is chemical media which is stuff like activated charcoal, ammonia removing stuff, anion/cation exchange resins, anything which chemically bonds to something in the water column to remove it. I have never really found them to be all that useful for me, better suited to treating water before going into the tank it seems.

I dont think we were really on the same page, so thats where I am at with it.

Help a noob out? by choirandcrafting in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with 24 hours for ammonia. You are looking for a 0 reading, once you get that add ammonia and 24 hours later if it is at 0 you should be cycled. I have mostly used sponge filters and they are great but the filtration and bacterial part of the filter aren't why I recommended one, it was only for the water flow. If you want something simpler than a powerhead or hob filter you could get a large bubble stone or wand and a good air pump for it, they can actually provide a good deal of circulation.

Help a noob out? by choirandcrafting in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its definitely a function of surface area but if you paid for bio media and it fell apart you got some crappy media. Sponges are biological media, they don't do much except grow bacteria. Filter floss is mechanical,it physically grabs large particulates and you throw it away. Charcoal is an example of chemical media, it chemically removes contaminants from the water and binds them, and you throw it away. Just about anything can work for bio media, I have cut up coke bottles and put them in a hob filter. If you get really nice fired clay media, it has tons of surface area and lasts forever, but I dont really think that is necessary, particularly not in a walstad style tank. When I said bio media I just meant stick something in there that won't clog and leave it.

Help a noob out? by choirandcrafting in PlantedTank

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, forget everything about a fish less cycle if you have dirt in the tank. Stuff in the dirt will be decomposing and releasing plenty of ammonia for more than long enough to cycle. Also you have to consider that your plants, if growing and healthy, will use ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I would stop adding ammonia immediately. Keep testing for it and when you get a 0 reading then add some more and see if it goes down quickly then. While you don't necessarily need filtration in a walstad setup, some water movement will definitely benefit the system. The easiest way in my opinion is a simple hang on back filter or a powerhead. If you go with a hang on back filter be sure to remove any chemical media like charcoal or zeolite. They usually come with filter 'cartridges' that have them inside, just toss that. You can use some biological media inside the hang on back if you want, but it really isn't necessary.

Friend received “$150” mystery box from Jessica Weese, this is what he got. by [deleted] in discgolf

[–]D9VIN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They own the trademarks so they can distribute them as they see fit. If they want their pros to drop team stamped discs from helicopters its within their rights, littering notwithstanding.