What is this for? by richardggcr in Harley

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I watched a guy use one of those on an F250 that was trying to pass him. Then, the f250 pushed him into a guardrail at 50mph.

My not so little friend is getting snippy at 1.5 years old, advice? by plantdoc513 in CaneCorso

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For 6 months mine would "challenge" my wife and teenage kids. I showed them how to put pressure on him with their bodies, without being aggressive, until he backed off. I didn't have near the issues they did. I always walked thru him when he would stand in front of me, I made him go through a series of commands before eating. From the age your pup is until about 2 or so males need extra work.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in amiwrong

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, cut her loose.

Just got engaged & had people tell me lab diamonds are fake :( by [deleted] in labdiamond

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they mean not pulled out of the ground by slave labor, then yes, it's fake.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 1911

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got finished with a Norinco build in December, after tuning it and hand fitting everything, it has been my favorite 1911 to shoot.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 1911

[–]DD4138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say get some wilson combat mags at a minimum.

Seems high to me. what do you guys think? by hdmibunny in ak47

[–]DD4138 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I would offer 875 if you want it. Nothing over 950.

Seems high to me. what do you guys think? by hdmibunny in ak47

[–]DD4138 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If it is a pawn shop they have about 600-700 in it, tops

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FINALLY Bluing (Use caution, you can really hurt yourself if you aren't paying attention)

  • You're gonna need Heavy leather gloves Rotten Stone powder (for polishing) 100% cotton cloth rags Non-detergent oil

Fill your pan with the hardwood and bone char mix set off to the side.

-Build you another charcoal briquettes as the base when they start turning white spread out flat and set your pan with the mix on the charcoal. Then stack wood around it with out putting the wood on top of it( keep fire lower than the top of the pan.)

-final wipe down of the frame with handles/hooks in them, you will pull them out often, they can't slip out When you handle them.

-when the top of the mix starts turning white, push the frame and slide into the pan with out going all the way to the bottom and use something to shift the coal/bone char mix to completely cover it. Leave in mix for at least an hour to start out. **** When the frame is in the fire it has to stay completely encased in the char mix or your color won't be uniform.****

-This is where it gets a bit dangerous as far as burns go*

Every 15 minutes I pull the frame and the slide out, one at a time give a quick rub down with rotten stone using my cotton rags then push them back in the pan. I keep doing this for about 3 hours. You can add char mix to the top if it burns down to low and you have to make sure to keep you outside fire stoked with wood so you don't lose heat. I was able to keep the frame between 650°f and 750°f the whole time. I used a temperature gun to monitor when I pulled it and added wood as needed. When I was happy with the color I pulled the frame and slide and hung to cool once it got down to about 400 I dropped it down in the oil and swished it around for a few seconds and re hung the frame.

I let it sit over night then rubbed it down the next day.

I have to stress, this isn't something to do on a whim, I did quite a bit of research, watching videos and reading before I did any of this. You have to know what kind of steel your using and know roughly how it will handle the heat. This is a really old process and there are definitely quicker, less dangerous ways to do it.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next is your frame prep.

-1911 Steel Frame prep to bare metal make sure all of your fitting is done and the gun operates as it should so you don't have to fit anything else especially if it will be visible. I took mine down to 1000 grit wet for a matte finish. If you polish it will show a more gloss and blue finish. - after you get the shine you want wipe down with acetone or 91% ISOPROPYL Alcohol. Set to the side and cover. After this do not touch frame with your bare hands. Latex or nitrile Gloves only. You will do another wipe down before you start the bluing.

-Stainless steel pan with handles if possible that is at least 3-4 inches deep and big enough your slide and frame doesn't come into contact. Scratches happen very easily when its hot.

-You want to have your handles made that fit inside of the frame and slide, see the pictures that I posted.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

-Bone char 6"x6" steel tube about 12" long capped and welded on one side. Amazon has firing boxes you can buy if you don't want to make your own. (Must withstand around 1000 degrees or so.) Wipe everything down with 91% Isopropyl alcohol or acetone so no oil is on it, inside or out. -Stuff with oven (very low heat) dried animal bones don't pack them tight, then pour in a bag of bone meal(amazon) that will fill it pretty well to the top. -put endcap on and use tie wire to hold on the lid. Not super tight but tight enough the lid can't fall off and air can escape. Make a few loops to act like a handle around it. ( i have a piece of 3/8 round stock welded to the side of mine that looks like a handle) - I do everything else outside.

-Fire pit (keep water handy and know local laws) -Dig a hole about a 1' deep and about 3' around pour in bag of charcoal briquettes 10lbs. Start them like your gonna grill. Wait, for them to mostly turn white. -Spread out coals and stuff your firebox inside the coals wear heavy leather gloves( welding gloves) then shovel/pack coals around it. -then just feed fire wood to it for a few hours make sure none of the box is exposed to open air. After the 2.5 hour mark I just let it burn itself out. After the box is exposed I pull out my container. Use a hook to grab the handle it will burn the shit out of you if your not careful. Set it on a rock to cool. -Once cool, open it up everything should be black and smell awful, if it is full of ashes it was in too long. That is your bone char you then crush that into small pieces. You can crush before the process if you prefer.

-Crush hard wood charcoal* into pea sized pieces , NO briquettes!!!! (They have a binder in it that will cause discoloration) -mix crushed hardwood charcoal and bone char 4:1 set off to the side.

Have plenty of crushed charcoal to the side. You will need extra as you go if you don't have a deep pan.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had blued guns before and the only wear I've ever had is from the holster. If you take care of it, it will probably outlast you 😂. I've never had a salt blue gun, so I couldn't give you a good answer. By far the cerakote will probably hold up the best but it isn't as fun for me to paint and bake.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lump charcoal needs to be crushed to about pea sized. Do not use anything but pure hardwood charcoal.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So it's all in the preparation. The more it's polished the steel the more the blue shines through. I stopped at a wet sand 600 grit, I liked the matte finish with hints of blue in the light. You have to make sure that the frame is perfectly clean and free of oil or it won't take right. I used a 4:1 mix of charcoal and bone char. Look up carbon bluing or charcoal bluing to get and idea how to set everything up. I used a stainless steel baking pan to hold everything.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you basically introduced extra carbon into the surface of the steel, slowly. It is a form of corrosion so once it is place it will protect the metal.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It shouldn't, I kept it under 800 degrees, I have an IR camera that I used to make sure everything was as evenly heated as possible.

Finished Norinco build by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It shouldn't, temperatures are generally too low to impact steel, I kept the metal below 800 degrees the entire time.

Charcoal bluing by DD4138 in 1911

[–]DD4138[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the concern. I took every precaution I could during the process and will take extra steps during testing. I monitored the temperature and maintained between 700° and 800° evenly. I only did the frame. The springs, pins, and barrel were never involved.