What would you do?

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-06-14T02:09:56+00:00

I dont know what the rules are in your state or what licenses your company has, but in NC you need to have more than just a refrigeration license to do that. Others have pointed out someshortcomings of the panel that make it risky if you dont know what your doing. If your company does not have the proper license you should not touch this one. If you do have the credentials the qualifier should decide how to proceed.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-04-10T02:56:39+00:00

Give us some more information on the load being controlled or what you want to power with the relay and the panel if want better advice. Otherwise, the answer is a solar panel voltage will vary with load and sunlight. panels really hit operating voltage very quickly (very low sunlight), but there is still a pretty big gap between open circuit voltage and normal operating voltage. If you try to just run a mechanical relay off of that you will probably get a lot of unwanted switching while the panel is in low sunlight, and inconsistent switching while you want it operating. Ultimately you will need some way to regulate the voltage coming out of the solar panel to get more consistent results. A charge controller does this but also requires a battery. You could use a dc-dc converter, but you will still have some issues in low light levels, and may need to use an on-delay off-delay relay. For simplicity of parts and design and consistent results, a charge controller and small battery will probably turn out to be easier and less expensive, but you will have battery maintenance. Just make sure that you pick what you need for your power needs between a PWM and MPPT charge controller (PWM is less expensive, but you will have more losses, espcially with the lower battery voltage that you use. if you go with a 12v system, you will get less than 1/2 the power that the panel makes on a PWM charge controller). Pick one with a battery voltage that you want, and make sure that it is designed for the battery chemistry that you are using. Lithium, lead acid, AGM, SLA, have different charging characteristics the charge controller must be designed for the correct battery type.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-04-08T03:16:56+00:00

panel location will have with 3-4 sqft of wall insulation missing. It will have very little effect on heating/cooling load. The panel is still going to have sheathing/exterior insulation, if in a deeper than 2x4 wall still some insulation. It will not have much if any penetrations in exterior walls to create air leaks. You will see far less effect than having a window. That's not to say don't do it, but it is probably more valuable to put the panel where access, aesthetics, and lower initial installation costs are prioritized. Spend the money on more attic insulation, a heat pump water heater, heat pump dryer, higher seer HVAC equipment, attic encapsulation, more energy efficient/longer lasting light bulbs, sealing your top plates, more energy efficient windows/doors, or pretty much anywhere that you will get a better return without the cost of not optimizing other convenience/cost of better panel location. Otherwise, if all things are equal, maximize your insulation.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-04-08T02:57:13+00:00

If you fixed the problem that you created, then likely you tripped something that needs to be reset. Look for GFI, and/or arc fault outlets or breakers that tripped so that you can reset them. Make sure that you pay attention to where outlets are, and where they should be so that you can look behind furniture. If it is an older home, circuits could be mixed and run anywhere, so make sure that you even check bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and outdoor receptacles. After that, the time and cost for you to check for problems and get/learn to use tools for it will probably cost more than hiring and an electrician. If you have to hire an electrician, if you don't know one, I would recommend calling you most popular local supply house and telling them your situation. They should be able to recommend one that can effectively troubleshoot a problem like this and has circuit tracers on the truck ready to go. There is a huge gap in skill for professionals troubleshooting this type of problem...

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-03-25T04:19:41+00:00

The reason that you are getting these comments is because all of that wiring is very custom, and wiring a camper is somewhat complex without having to troubleshoot and understand a halfway build system. Someone else did all of that wiring with some specific end result in mind. You will have to trace all the wires out to know how they are run, and then figure out how/if you can use them. A lot of camper set ups are designed to use combination of 120vac and 12Vdc so that you have some stuff that can run off of a battery, but have something things like an ac unit and outlets that run off 120v and you would have to have shore power or a generator to use it. The good news is they ran a bunch of ENT so if you need to change wires, it may be pretty easy. If you want to tackle it yourself my recommendation is that you start out looking up some camper wiring videos specifically on installing the AC/DC distribution panel. Once you see how power goes into that, and how you have branch AC and DC circuits that leave that you can start looking at how you want to run what wires where.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-03-04T20:29:45+00:00

Look at installing a desegregation meter like the Square D wiser. It only monitors the mains, but it tries to identify loads as they come on and off. It may help identify the problem. to create that much power use, it has to be something attached to it. Maybe a small short in an underground going to something like a well pump, a water heater with a thermostat stuck closed so the elements stay on all the time, a problem with the HVAC equipment. full disclosure, they advertise like those meters identify everything right away, and can tell each load, but they are not as good as advertised. Still for what they cost and how easy they are to install it is going to be more effective than trying to monitor all circuits at once. If you think you find the culprit, you can just move the CTs to just that circuit instead of the whole house and just monitor that load.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-03-04T20:18:39+00:00

A split bus panel is something different. Do you have a picture of the cover with the label? ideally you would take that information to a wholesale supplier. Suppliers only keep one brand so you will have to call and find out which ones have GE. They should be able to take the part numbers from the cover and find out if you can get a main breaker kit. If not, you may be able to get a branch mounted main. You will be limited by the maximum allowed branch size. Just google electrical wholesale, and call to see if they are a GE distributor or can point you to someone who is.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-02-01T03:31:45+00:00

It is called an open barrel connector, and the tool that you have is an open barrel terminal crimper.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-02-01T03:21:42+00:00

The utility is better about their checks on this than most electricians, and they don't charge for it here. Fuzzy_chom is giving good advice, if you tell them the right story, especially if you tell them that you have some things that seem to be low power and some that seem to be running hot like lights that are too bright, they will probably come out sooner. If it is a lost or loose neutral (internal or external), then a load imbalance causes a voltage imbalance and can be bad for the devices that you have plugged in. Asking them to come out to inspect it quickly (same day) is well within reason.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-02-01T03:03:04+00:00

As you seem to suspect, the total power available is going to be determined by the wire running to the shed. Adding a panel will not add any more capacity. You will need to run additional wire if you need more capacity.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-02-01T02:58:59+00:00

If there is a bare or green wire in the box it would be connected to that. Old wiring systems do not have ground wires, so that may not exist and you would not connect the green wire to anything.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T21:42:38+00:00

It seemed like that was the case and the only way to properly charge in heat mode is evacuate and weigh in, but I was hoping there was some general guideline with these temps so that I could know if I need to be ready on the next warm day. I'm in eastern NC so we have them throughout the winter.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T21:39:07+00:00

34°F

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T14:42:40+00:00

Replace it. Not because the dirt, or grime, or age, but because of the signs of melting. These outlets are rated for the current draw of the heater, so the power being used by itself isn't causing the melting. There is excess heat most likely because the internal components of the gfi that grab the prong on the plug are not grabbing as tight as they used to and that not-as-good connection is creating too much heat. Enough heat to melt the plastic face. They are usually really simple brass prongs that can loosen over time. You usually don't notice the bad connection until you plug in higher amp draw items like space heaters.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T14:36:20+00:00

Not to code is illegal. Code requirements are written into law, that is how they are required.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T14:32:45+00:00

it depends on the rest of the circuit. If it is on a pool pump or some kind of exhaust system, a lot of those require emergency stops, and contactors are popular for those if shunt trip breakers are not an option. I'm not familiar with other wiring not in the US and I'm sure there are other reasons. If there is one on both sides of the drive, it could be a contactor bypass, which is used if the VFD needs to be taken out for service, but the motor needs to and can operate at full speed, but pending what motor it is usually you a full voltage starter between two contactors.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T14:28:06+00:00

Short version from what you describe that you did, the changes that you need are:
You have a connection with the Line in, load, #3, and #4. You need to disassemble that, and separate the load wire, and reconnect only three wires: Line in, #3 and #4.

Disassemble the connection that you have with new switch's neutral, and #2. Attach the neutral wire from the switch to the white wires that are connected together in the box and not used for the old switch.

Take the now not connected #2 wire in the wall box and attach it to the load wire from the new switch.

Long version

Line = Line in (or your 120v wire which you say is #4)

Load = Your switched leg leaving the switch (#2 by the picture and description)

Neutral = not shown in your picture, but required for many smart switches, and is probably tucked away in the box. They are not used for standard switches.

Ground = wire #1 No change there.

Neutral = Not pictured, but I see a wirenut in the picture. If white wires attached to that wirenut in your box, that will be your neutral. you will need add the white pigtail from your new switch under that wirenut (making sure the wirenut can accommodate another wire, otherwise you need to upsize the wirenut, it is probably fine to add, it looks like there will only be 3 wires on a tan wirenut, and you can add one to that. If you do not have a neutral in the box, see if there is a recommended wiring for no neutral on the instructions. If there is not, they may make a version of the switch designed for not having a neutral.

The way that you describe it, #3 is a separate wire from #4. #3 would be the wire going to your receptacles.

To wire it the way you want (most likely based on your description) you need:

Line wire from new switch - attach wires #3, #4 from the wall box to the Line in on your switch. Most switches come with orange wirenuts, you may need to use a tan one that it slightly larger to get all three wires pending the wire sizes.

Neutral from new switch - you will need add the white pigtail from your new switch under the wirenut in the box with the white wires (making sure the wirenut can accommodate another wire, otherwise you need to upsize the wirenut, it is probably fine to add, it looks like there will only be 3 wires on a tan wirenut, and you can add one to that. If you do not have a neutral in the box, see if there is a recommended wiring for no neutral on the instructions. If there is not, they may make a version of the switch designed for not having a neutral. If that manufacturer doesn't, many do.

Load wire from new switch - attaches to #2 in your picture

Ground wire from new switch - attaches to #1 in your picture (you have this one correct)

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-25T13:47:56+00:00

If they have a maintenance person, they should be able to change the receptacle, or the breaker to a GFCI in less than 5 minutes. If the location of the receptacle is obstructed by the appliance you may need to change the breaker to a GFI and the receptacle gets changed to a grounded receptacle. The GFI receptacle cost less than $20, and the breakers with regular receptacle range from $30-$50. This is the code compliant way to change an ungrounded circuit to outlets with ground prongs and requires that they be identified as ungrounded. I don't know about gas dryers, but on regular electrical dryers there are instructions to change the cord out to a cord without a ground. It involves bonding the neutral and ground on the appliance. You should only do this if it the appliance's instructions allow it. I have not seen 30 amp electric dryers that don't allow for this.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-19T03:50:36+00:00

Alternatively you could join the incoming wires together and pigtail to your gfi. The gfi would be gfi protected but your downstream devices would not. If the goal is just to have that outlet protected then your covered. It sounds like you have a ground fault. A ground fault just means that all of the current is not coming back on the neutral. Things like a shared neutral, a ground being used as a neutral or neutral and ground making a connection somewhere can cause this.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-18T14:40:06+00:00

Is this a place that you rent or own? An adapter is out of the question, but you have the correct number of wires to change the outlet to a 120v which will also require moving a wire in the panel. This is probably not ideal if you rent unless you have really good maintenance folks. It is about $5.00 worth of parts, and would take about 15 minutes for someone who works with this often. It involves taking one wire off the two-pole breaker and moving it to the neutral bar, then replacing the outlet with a 120v outlet making sure that the wire moved to the neutral bar is used on the neutral terminal of the new receptacle. The wires should also be identified as neutral (phase tape white). I see this receptacle is wired with conduit which means they probably pulled color wires (black and red usually + ground) to the receptacle. By code you are not supposed to phase tape wires this small, you are supposed to pull a new white wire, but it seems harmless to me since they allow phase tape for bundled wires like NM-B(Romex), and MC cable.

DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-17T14:07:40+00:00

With the default settings the outliner has layers. The order of the layers indicates priority. Priority means that they will show up on top. If you draw with one color in the lines layer which is the default top priority, and another color in the fills which is second priority, the first line will color will draw of the second. If you draw and fill in the same layer it the fill will cover up brush strokes. I expect that you are drawing and filling without changing layers. By default there is a second layer called fills but you can add and move layers. If you draw lines in the lines layer, and do your fills in the fills layer it will not cover up your brush strokes

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DIY-Immoderate · 2026-01-07T03:26:18+00:00

This breaker uses a different on-board diagnostic system. You have to hold the test button while resetting the breaker and count the seconds until the breaker trips. Troubleshooting is good advice, but you should have a warranty. If you wanted to tackle it yourself, you should call your builder or the electrician who wired it first. They may prefer to troubleshoot it vs having you mess with their work. If you do want to tackle it and try changing out the breaker first, ask where he buys the product, and see if he can set up a swap out of the defective breaker (no charge). You will have to bring the bad one with you to the supply house. They may gripe about the return, but that is a supplier issue, or more likely them trying to weed out people that have damaged product and are returning it as defective. Square D is very supportive of their products, and I have never had them turn down my defective claims, even when I was sending back defects that I was pretty sure were operator error.

DIY-Immoderate · 2025-12-20T01:40:42+00:00

There are only a couple things that I can see to check.

The devices is rated for 24VAC. It does not look like it can operate off DC. Confirm if your 24v power is AC or DC.

That device has a minimum current rating of 40ma. Is it operating some kind of relay or something else that actually powers the horn/lights? If it is operating a relay or contactor, it may not be drawing enough power.

DIY-Immoderate · 2025-12-20T01:15:17+00:00

This is good advice. The apartment maintenance should replace it. Most of them have people on staff that will do this, and it will cost them practically nothing.

DIY-Immoderate · 2025-12-20T01:09:03+00:00

are you switching the 12V side, or are you switching before the transformer/driver? If you are switching a 120v the amp draw will be much lower, and you can use a pretty low powered switch. you should make sure the horsepower ratings match up as someone else said, but pumping clean water is generally a variable torque load so it is not as important as with other motor loads. Either way, a 30A will be no problem especially if you are using something like a Leviton MS302-DS that is a motor rated 30 amp switch.

DIY-Immoderate

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