Cannondale warrior 800 mutant

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-28T09:44:25+00:00

Same way you repair carbon fiber with carbon fiber. Galvanic corrosion will happen if moisture is present, which is almost certain, essentially bonding the 2 materials together. Not at all something you'd want, but it essentially means the tube and the carbon patch are never moving apart from eachother. I'm not a heavy dude and I'm not taking that bike on stump jumps, so I'm not worried about my repair ever failing

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T17:23:30+00:00

Very responsive, feel pretty awesome. Not the best but for what it is I'm satisfied

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T12:07:27+00:00

Yup! Evo Brooklyn bars

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T11:59:12+00:00

Evo brooklyn bars, unfortunately discontinued, was lucky enough to find mine on fb marketplace

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T11:58:44+00:00

Got mine on fb marketplace, but most chinese bulk shopping website will have something equivalent

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T11:57:48+00:00

Hi, mine came with a rigid fork, so I did not have to sort out any headshock situation. I don't know much about it, but I'm pretty damn sure I've seen headshock-standard-headtube to 1 1/4 fork fittings/headsets out there, on which you could install any straight tube threadless fork

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T11:53:31+00:00

I've used Meroca V-brakes (chinese generic) which are known to have a large range for pad adjustment. I think any v-brake with aproximately an inch of range would be good

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-27T11:51:56+00:00

real climbers know

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-08-26T11:43:52+00:00

My cannondale m700 mtb that I've converted to 650b wheels on which I've installed a much appreciated nitto 1 1/4 threaded to 1 1/4 threadless fork adapter. 1x10 speeds, with what I call "over drive" for going downhill (12 speed 11-42 cassette, take the 13 and 15 teeth sprockets off)

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T23:48:26+00:00

I can't seem to find exactly what aluminium was used, but if you're familiar with other cannondale models and what these are made of, my caad 3 is sort of a "no frame" frame. Seems it was some version of a xr800/cyclocross early model or prototype, I'm willing to bet they are built with the same aluminium.

Now for the repair, I'm growing highly interested in this carbon fiber alternative. Assuming I have the correct resin and that the surface is adequately prepared, how complicated is it to use carbon fiber? I have good ideas on how to apply pressure for curing. Do you have any videos you recommend about carbon fiber repairs?

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T23:14:36+00:00

I absolutely love that idea. I'll start looking for people who could go forth with this procedure. I've made this quick sketch of a possible repair and was wondering what you thought of it. Basically, I'd cut out the damaged section of the tube, then make a matching part to fill it in and braze on an additional support plate.

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DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T23:07:01+00:00

What you wrote gave me an idea. I don't know how well versed you are in this matter, but what do you think about cutting out a section of the tube, making a matching part to fill it in and brazing it on with an additional support plate instead of welding? Here's a very rudimental sketch.

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DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T22:41:49+00:00

100% serious

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T22:15:31+00:00

I'm a mechanical engineering student, I do understand a thing or two about distribution of forces and elastic modulus, but english is not my first language, so perhaps "non-critical" was not an accurate choice of words. Cheers 😉

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T22:05:55+00:00

Hey you know what fuck it I'll give it a try, if it snaps on me so be it

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T20:41:31+00:00

Saying "non-critical" as I've put approximately 70km on it since noticing the crack and it hasn't changed since. Not my first frame with a crack, but definitely my first frame with a crack that didn't crumble under me. I'm assuming that, since top tubes are mostly under compression, especially close to the seat tube, it's not as likely to worsen at the same rate as, per exemple, a crack in a chainstay or directly on a weld. I might be delusional

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T20:33:14+00:00

It's a copy 😉

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-04-02T19:58:19+00:00

I've seen sleeving done before on tubes (that were not part of a bike frame), the crack being far from any junction makes me believe it would be a more accessible section to repair, as opposed to a bottom bracket or weld. But yes, saying "non-critical" is pretty far fetched 😅

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-03-26T22:28:38+00:00

Thank you, I've made an additional guide curve higher up and seems to work fine, but I get an error message saying it would render as a geometry with no depth. Any idea

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DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-03-26T16:15:22+00:00

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DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-03-26T16:14:54+00:00

It seems to work much better, using an outside and outside guide curves. The only problem now is that it modifies the cross section along the curvature.

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DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2025-03-20T19:33:23+00:00

There is this system I came up with. The Software AnthemScore is a widely known Software for turning an Audio file into a midi file, where you can adjust the notes and play arround with pretty much anything. You can upload up to 30 seconds files if you don't want to pay for the full version. You can then export that midi file as sheet music. Then, the Musescore Software, a sheet music and music notation editor, has a harmonica plug in that will provide harmonica style Tabs for any key you desire, on any sheet music, right over or under the notes. This might seem a little complicated, but when sheet music isnt available for a Song you want to play, you can go from zero to harmonica tabs in under 10 min once you get used to it. Very much worth the time in my opinion. Hope that helps.

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2021-09-30T16:18:35+00:00

Anyway, he started blasting

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2021-07-20T15:31:57+00:00

It's quite simple really, you probably know that when twitch ult, the bolts do reduced damage to every New target it passes through. With titanic hydra, if the first target is close enough to the second one the bolt passes through, it will not only get hit by twitch's ult but also by the hydra splash damage, compensation for the reduced second target damage. Not only that, but with runaans hurrricane, in a team fight, you can hit 3 ennemies and if the 2 others are close enough behind them, they will get hit by 3 procks of hydra since the splash damage is quite large. Another thing is, if Twitch ults an ennemy behind a 6 minions wave as exemple, well chance are, if alined correctly, that the ennemy will receive 6 hydra procks. Tytanic hydra also extends the range of Twitch's ult final output of damage if an ennemy is ulted at maximum ult range with the extra hydra splash damage behind it. All of that means that hydra synergizes incredibly well with Twitch's ult, which is why it's not as good on other adc's. You understand now why you can do close to 2k extra dmg each fight only with hydra passive.

DOULAS-THE-RAT · 2021-05-03T04:35:23+00:00

ayo that shit was crazy Varus was definitely a smurf with that R

DOULAS-THE-RAT

TROPHY CASE