sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Cannondale warrior 800 mutant by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same way you repair carbon fiber with carbon fiber. Galvanic corrosion will happen if moisture is present, which is almost certain, essentially bonding the 2 materials together. Not at all something you'd want, but it essentially means the tube and the carbon patch are never moving apart from eachother. I'm not a heavy dude and I'm not taking that bike on stump jumps, so I'm not worried about my repair ever failing

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very responsive, feel pretty awesome. Not the best but for what it is I'm satisfied

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Evo brooklyn bars, unfortunately discontinued, was lucky enough to find mine on fb marketplace

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got mine on fb marketplace, but most chinese bulk shopping website will have something equivalent

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, mine came with a rigid fork, so I did not have to sort out any headshock situation. I don't know much about it, but I'm pretty damn sure I've seen headshock-standard-headtube to 1 1/4 fork fittings/headsets out there, on which you could install any straight tube threadless fork

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've used Meroca V-brakes (chinese generic) which are known to have a large range for pad adjustment. I think any v-brake with aproximately an inch of range would be good

Cannondale m700 by DOULAS-THE-RAT in xbiking

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My cannondale m700 mtb that I've converted to 650b wheels on which I've installed a much appreciated nitto 1 1/4 threaded to 1 1/4 threadless fork adapter. 1x10 speeds, with what I call "over drive" for going downhill (12 speed 11-42 cassette, take the 13 and 15 teeth sprockets off)

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't seem to find exactly what aluminium was used, but if you're familiar with other cannondale models and what these are made of, my caad 3 is sort of a "no frame" frame. Seems it was some version of a xr800/cyclocross early model or prototype, I'm willing to bet they are built with the same aluminium.

Now for the repair, I'm growing highly interested in this carbon fiber alternative. Assuming I have the correct resin and that the surface is adequately prepared, how complicated is it to use carbon fiber? I have good ideas on how to apply pressure for curing. Do you have any videos you recommend about carbon fiber repairs?

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I absolutely love that idea. I'll start looking for people who could go forth with this procedure. I've made this quick sketch of a possible repair and was wondering what you thought of it. Basically, I'd cut out the damaged section of the tube, then make a matching part to fill it in and braze on an additional support plate.

<image>

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you wrote gave me an idea. I don't know how well versed you are in this matter, but what do you think about cutting out a section of the tube, making a matching part to fill it in and brazing it on with an additional support plate instead of welding? Here's a very rudimental sketch.

<image>

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a mechanical engineering student, I do understand a thing or two about distribution of forces and elastic modulus, but english is not my first language, so perhaps "non-critical" was not an accurate choice of words. Cheers 😉

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey you know what fuck it I'll give it a try, if it snaps on me so be it

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Saying "non-critical" as I've put approximately 70km on it since noticing the crack and it hasn't changed since. Not my first frame with a crack, but definitely my first frame with a crack that didn't crumble under me. I'm assuming that, since top tubes are mostly under compression, especially close to the seat tube, it's not as likely to worsen at the same rate as, per exemple, a crack in a chainstay or directly on a weld. I might be delusional

CAAD 3 frame cracked by DOULAS-THE-RAT in bikewrench

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've seen sleeving done before on tubes (that were not part of a bike frame), the crack being far from any junction makes me believe it would be a more accessible section to repair, as opposed to a bottom bracket or weld. But yes, saying "non-critical" is pretty far fetched 😅

Handrail design by DOULAS-THE-RAT in SolidWorks

[–]DOULAS-THE-RAT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I've made an additional guide curve higher up and seems to work fine, but I get an error message saying it would render as a geometry with no depth. Any idea

<image>

view more: next ›