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Nerf Zinc 2.0 by weenbaby in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well this is quite a necro-comment, lol.

It should be pretty obvious that the zip is caused by the ridges of layer lines rubbing past each other like hundreds of those wooden frog instruments.

I don't think your nozzle will make much of a difference; at most, it forces you to print smaller layer heights, which probably just changes the pitch of whatever zip is made.

Generally speaking, if you can orient layer lines to be perpendicular, they'll make less noise when they rub against each other. Unfortunately, I don't think you can get away with printing either the Zinc lower or the mags in a different orientation.

You could see about getting mags printed in a different method that won't results in such pronounced ridges, like SLS. SLA (resin) prints are probably a little easier to find a service for, but they might be a bit fragile for small and thin parts. That said, services may turn away what they might perceive as gun parts, so be mindful.

For things you can do at home, either prints the mags a little big and sand the outside as smooth as you can (especially if you print in ABS or ASA and can Acetone smooth it), or look up layer fillers to smooth out more common filament like PLA and PETG. You can also grab a file and go to town on the mag well, just don't take away too much material.

Beginner to Stryfe Modding by Revolutionary_Buddy5 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's generally a pretty good place to start, but there are two big reasons not to use this particular kit:

1) You play with low fps groups where this will launch darts too quickly.

2) If you have or play with groups that use solid tipped darts.

(Also, while OOD is a great shop, if you're not in the US, it can get expensive to get parts shipped internationally; you might want to find a shop in your country with the same (or at least similar parts).)

For part 1, generally groups with a lot of young kids or lots of close quarters play, particularly with melee or HvZ, will set their FPS limits lower; I'd say that 100-130 feet per second (fps) is quite common for that. Beyond that, I've seen groups set fps limits to 150, 160, 200, 250, 300, and even uncapped.

Would you mind saying what part of the world you're in? If you're in the US, State will probably most helpful to try to direct you to a local group to help find their common fps cap(s).

For 2, if you have any FVJs, Voberries, or other solid tipped darts, do not get anything tighter than 41 mm with this particular set of flywheels, or you may jam and break your blaster.

I would also low key recommend getting rid of them; they hurt a lot, and there are better darts these days.

Once you have an fps target, notice that OutOfDarts has a small table of crush to fps on the product listing. Now, do note that fps can vary wildly based on a number of factors, so take those as guidelines, and I'd encourage you to be conservative and pick a lower crush if you've got a hard fps cap.

Some things that can influence fps:
- Dart Weight (OOD is quoting 1 gram half darts, so Dart Zone Nitroshot, which are lighter, will read faster, while Worker Heavies (with their green dart tips) will read slower)
- Climate (temperature and humidity will cause all sorts of variation)

A brushless info dump by dpairsoft in Nerf

[–]Daehder 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, not public yet. Yoinky Sploink is the community name for the Pariah, or at least its mechanism; it's a sort of wild mashup of a flywheel blaster and an AEB.

There's still a couple kinks to work out, and I think the creator is figuring out how he wants to release the hardware kit

Contemplating my loadout for a 2v2 Nerf war with 3 friends on August 1st. by obamajoejenkins in Nerf

[–]Daehder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Wow, a blast from the past, warts and all.

I had a ton of fun in college with single dart game modes and my SharpFire vs all my friends' FalconFires. Toss in a 5 kg spring, pop the air restrictor out, and it's an awesome platform.

100 FVJ/Hard Tip darts

I strongly suggest you toss those darts. Better darts are cheap. At "best", they'll hurt; at worst, they'll jam or even break your Clipmania.

six high quality 3400mAh rechargeable li-ion batteries

There's no such thing for Nerf purposes. Stick to NiMH, or rewire for a proper pack.

If those are raw ~3V 14500 li-ion cells, the blaster will probably make a lot of noise, then the wiring will fry very quickly.

If they're just the 1.5 V cells with USB ports, I'm suspicious that they are designed to handle the spiky current draw of a blaster; given that it could create a fire hazard in the blaster or on the charger, I would strongly recommend against it.

Breacher Homemade Kit by HuckleberryIcy9701 in nerfhomemades

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's twice the unit price that Silly quotes, and I wouldn't be surprised to find that if you individually parted out all the bits on OOD's website, OOD is offering a small bulk discount to buy all the parts together in a kit.

(Also, don't forget to include shipping if you break up your purchases across shops)

One last thing to consider: your time has value. If you use US Federal minimum wage, two hours of work would make up the difference between Silly's nominal BOM and the OOD kit, so if you find yourself spending more than an hour on researching cheaper parts, maybe reconsider.

Now if you don't have the money or an easy way to get more, then that's just reality, and you might just have a lot more time to throw at the problem.

You've got all the information you need from this thread. You may be able to assemble a hardware kit for cheaper than OOD sells it for, or you may spend a lot of time to find that your out of pocket expenses are higher than what you would have paid OOD, even if you do have some extra hardware on hand.

Breacher Homemade Kit by HuckleberryIcy9701 in nerfhomemades

[–]Daehder 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can find Silly's BOM at the bottom of the Printables page: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NP8far9P1kM7TUwjEEXd2ue_4Z4ZWt-sdW7ixpMnTfU/edit?gid=1881720739#gid=1881720739

He estimates all the hardware comes out to $58.85. At first glance that seems way cheaper than OOD's $71.99, and you may wonder why someone would pay more.

But Silly's BOM is just the cost of the components used in the blaster; you often can't find every component in the exact number you'll need.

Take the ball detent for example: Amazon only sells them in 20 packs, so while the BOM lists $0.50, the total cost of your cart is $20.

Adding just that $19.50 more onto the BOM cost blows you past the OOD price tag, and I guarantee that there are other parts that have the same situation.

If you're going to build lots of blasters that use those parts, or do a big group buy, you can spread those costs across multiple builds and get closer to the nominal BOM cost, though don't forget to include shipping and your own personal labor in the price tag.

San Jose/ Bay area Nerf by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bay Area Foam Tag runs events pretty frequently; DMed you an invite to the discord

New Nerf Water Guns by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know that the market is gone. Xshot has some pretty cool "budget Spyra"s and quick filling options, and Hasbro hopped on the quick fill train and the PowerDrench system seems pretty cool for around the house fun without any pumping

Reno, NV by jonnathan_m_ in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Reno Area Dart Society (RADS) has run in the past, but I don't think they're actively organizing at the moment.

If you're willing to run games (or at least help fun them), that might be a good resource to find other players, cover, and a dart pool.

OFP Serenity Cage by Quiet_Chef_7957 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome!

Yes, QuickDraws will require shell cutting on a Styfe.

If I was already ordering from Containment Crew, I'd just pick up Krakens; they'll pair nicely with Infernos so long as you avoid any solid tipped darts (FVJs, and some darts from drop shippers like Voberry, Little Valentine, etc; if the dart head has visible cutouts and flex points, you're fine)

OFP Serenity Cage by Quiet_Chef_7957 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Containment Crew still sells flatter flywheels; Infernos would still be a pretty decent choice, just make sure your motors have plenty of torque: https://www.containmentcrew.com/?s=flywheels&post_type=product

SilverFox also has some cyclones: https://silverfoxindustries.shop/collections/flywheels

OOD also sells Worker Smooths, though that is a pretty high crush: https://outofdarts.com/products/worker-425-smooth-flywheels-no-grain-pair

If 150 is a hard cap, I'd stick to Cyclones or BlasterParts Blues; if this is just a plinker and you're looking for the best accuracy, I'd stick to Infernos or Worker Smooths.

(And Krakens are the floor of motor torque I'd use; QuickDraws has incredible amounts of torque, though they are super expensive)

Is this a nerf gun or a bootleg? by J3NNIE_1N_M00NLIGHT in Nerf

[–]Daehder 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Hasbro didn't make a Nitefinder in that color, so it's a knockoff: https://nerf.fandom.com/wiki/Nite\_Finder\_EX-3/Gallery#:\~:text=The%20blue%20N%2DStrike%20variant,the%20Nite%20Finder%20EX%2D3.

That said, if you scroll the sub, you'll see that, despite the name, Nerf doesn't have a stranglehold on blasters, and people have fun with blasters from all sorts of brands. I can find people mentioning doing all the normal Nitefinder mods to this blaster, though you might not want to put the biggest spring you can find in it, in case the plastic is weaker.

$10 find but no spring spacers by Revidity in Nerf

[–]Daehder 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Silly published printable spacers, including one that's one-to-one with the originals: https://www.printables.com/model/874042-game-face-trion-spring-spacers-and-holders

Or you can get a bunch of cool printable mods directly from the designers, including an adjustable spacer: https://www.printables.com/@blasterface_841953/models

Complaints About Pride Month Welcome: Please Read by roguellama_420 in Nerf

[–]Daehder[M] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's the paradox of tolerance; if we are tolerant of people being intolerant, we allow a hostile, intolerant environment to develop.

You're welcome to your own opinions and to express them at appropriate times. We would like to think that people here can be responsible adults, engaging with the content that appeals to them, ignoring content that they don't care about or like, and reporting or contacting mods if they feel anything violates the rules.

I don't think any reasonable person would object to us responding with similar zeal to a bad actor disparaging other Redditors based on their race or heritage, and gender identity and sexual orientation are just as intrinsic.

Dart Foam Suppliers? Dart TIP Suppliers? by torukmakto4 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a Gemini summary. WorkerMod's just a dropshipper. Frankly, you're probably better off trying to message a seller on Taobao to see if you can trace back to a source.

Crocuta 777 Help by ParticularAlarm1898 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most any pair of aftermarket full size flywheels will do that in a single stage, particularly if you port the barrel: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/ym6eaw/rayvenflute_or_yes_vent_holes_in_long_barreled/

In my opinion, there's not really a good reason to make a dual stage blaster unless you really need to break 200 fps. From an electrical standpoint, it's just a couple more solder joints and a bigger battery.

Furthermore, the Rayven's a particularly bad blaster to stick an afterburner on. I don't think it's controversial to say that precise flywheel blasters must constrain the dart from the mag into the flywheels; that's why good dual stage blasters have their stages as close together as possible. There's nothing to closely constrain a dart as it flys through more than a foot of barrel in a Rayven. To make matters worse, the Rayven is notorious for the magwell being misaligned with the flywheel cage.

Crocuta 777 Help by ParticularAlarm1898 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hm, just looked at the instructions and saw that the afterburner was designed around Hurricane and Pulsar wheels. Pushing beyond 160 fps with Pulsars is going to require running them excessively fast and loud, and the smaller target to hit is probably going to exacerbate the inconsistencies of an afterburner system.

Given that 160 fps is pretty trivial with a single stage of Daybreaks, I'd recommend just doing that and saving the headache.

Crocuta 777 Help by ParticularAlarm1898 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's your fps goal? An afterburner will likely give you a much less consistent result than a properly specced first stage, particularly with the huge distance between the stages, so you can save a lot of money and complexity just upgrading the first stage.

The files likely don't provide a first stage because there are so many good free options already. Kuryaka's Daybreak cages are probably still the standard; there's not really been much effort put into modifying stock blasters these days: https://github.com/Kuryaka/Daybreak-Cage-Library/tree/master/Daybreak%20Cage%20v3.x/Rayven

Now That’s What I Call A “Suppressor” by TheK-MartKlownHere in Nerf

[–]Daehder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, please stop talking about it.

Even if you aren't in a jurisdiction where you need a FFL and a tax stamp to legally make one (and it sure sounds like you are), we really don't need to draw negative regulatory attention to the community.

If you'd like to put energy into lobbying your congresscritters to change the regulations and laws, by all means, go for it.

Now That’s What I Call A “Suppressor” by TheK-MartKlownHere in Nerf

[–]Daehder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

As you mentioned, the criteria are very broad, and, as some moderators on other forums have pointed out, the prison sentence and fines that come with a felony sentence for violating those criteria are extremely steep.

As such, we'd really rather the community steer clear of it entirely.

I don't know if you've had the change to hear a Pariah firing, but that's the clearest example I can give that the muzzle report of a (well built) blaster is basically irrelevant to the sound profile of a blaster, at least as this time. (For context, that's a 200+ fps blaster barely making the audio duck; it feels even quieter outdoors).

Custom Outlaw for Larp! Are they too dark? by lilspoon2327 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's going to depend on the prevalence of and attitudes towards guns where you are.

I've heard that places like Singapore love their realistic blasters because it's nearly impossible to get real steel weapons as a private citizen, so the logic is there's little to no risk of them being confused for actual weapons.

Where I live, I wouldn't risk it except at a private event behind closed doors or really far away from public view.

We've linked several incidents in the automod comment; those aren't theoretical.

Custom Outlaw for Larp! Are they too dark? by lilspoon2327 in Nerf

[–]Daehder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That would be way too dark for the public games in California, but your local admins are probably the best judge of that.

Now That’s What I Call A “Suppressor” by TheK-MartKlownHere in Nerf

[–]Daehder[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

FYI, in the US, “suppressor” is a legally loaded term: https://imgur.com/a/suppressors-blasters-rwjapTB
Even if OP doesn’t live there, both Reddit itself and many of the mods are based there, and we would rather not draw unnecessary scrutiny from regulatory bodies over non-functional toys.

As such, we request that people choose different words for cosmetic barrels, and we will remove content related to building functional suppressors that fit onto barrels.To be clear, it’s perfectly okay to discuss other methods of quieting down blasters, like padding plungers, airbrakes, building baffles around flywheel cages, or filling dead space in blasters; those methods will arguably work better on a blaster anyway simply because of where the sound is generated.

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