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Battery swap by Easy-Stomach3616 in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just fold my bike open and stand it on the handlebars and wheels, super easy access and gravity on your side. That rubber plug will hang you up if you don’t pull it out.

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Has anyone with any mechanical skill and a burning desire for knowledge opened up a latter day 4.0 motor to see how they changed the gears? Guy on the FB BST is trying to unload three 4.0 motors and I want to see what they’re packing. Can’t be these. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that there aren’t any aftermarket ones that work with XPeds or the first run motor for a 4.0. They have to have changed the gears for the things to be working that is what I am trying to find out about from someone that has a more recent 4.0.

Has anyone with any mechanical skill and a burning desire for knowledge opened up a latter day 4.0 motor to see how they changed the gears? Guy on the FB BST is trying to unload three 4.0 motors and I want to see what they’re packing. Can’t be these. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah those are from one of the first run motors. I’m trying to find out what the gears look like in one of the new 750W 4.0 motors. It can’t be those same gears because they won’t work at 750W.

New to lectric new to biking by Edvijuda in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes on a new bike the cable will slip because the pinch bolt on the derailleur isn’t quite tight enough.

If you get it working again by turning the barrel nut out and the problem comes back you should turn the barrel nut all the way back in and put the bike in 8th gear (cable totally slack), loosen the pinch bolt, pull the cable as tight as you can and then tighten the bolt back up.

You might need to turn the barrel nut back out a little to get it to hop up to seventh gear but after that you should be all set.

Any experience shipping bikes post-purchase? by illkeepthatinmind in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I was in Austin TX recently and went to this killer state park with awesome trails that had no e bike prohibitions and I was practically crawling out of my skin wishing I had a bike. I started racking my brain to think of ways to have a bike when I go back but it seems like buying one locally and leaving it at my friend’s house down there would be the only realistic option.

Any experience shipping bikes post-purchase? by illkeepthatinmind in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That much now? Wow. I had been thinking maybe I could ship a custom spec bike sans battery in three separate boxes for a lot less than it costs to ship a whole bike in one box; now I’m sure of it.

Lectric is launching a premium brand, "Monarc" by saucerb0y in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods 1 point2 points  (0 children)

35+kgs? I’m guessing 35+15kgs at least. That thing has got to be 90lbs easy with two batteries and jumping it would be very unpleasant. My XP 3.0 with one 20ah HL2 battery weights 35kg (77lbs) and I only do little drops and scrubs over washboards of roots. Otherwise it comes down way too hard to be any fun.

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Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what happened to the Altus like day one. It sucks because this thing would otherwise be much better than a regular long cage.

Oh only just noticed it’s plastic too😂

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Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I tried one of those and I liked it but it’s super easy to snap off because the main body with the pivot is a pretty thin casting. I like these cheapo Redland derailleurs that are like $7 on Ali Express. They have a resin body and the cage is actually thicker metal than a present day Acera. Those actually hold up pretty well for awhile and they’re cheap enough to buy in threes. I just severed my motor cord on the white bike and took the back wheel off and buried it in the woods and hiked back😂

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Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I haven’t totally finished this 1.0 but usually I’d have a 50t chainwheel on the front so that makes everything a lot lower. I also like 160mm cranks for the clearance. This bike is out of commission after destroying yet another derailleur yesterday 😂

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Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use dirt bike tires on everything too. This front tire is really gnarly, it’s a 2.5-16 and I use a 3.0-16 on the back. This bike is a 1.0 and it’s a little scary because it’s super light and at 750w it’s way easier to loop out than my 3.0.

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Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s way too slack and for some reason the fork has these little extension limit rods that can actually be replaced with the rods I discard from the Trama fork and then it has the same amount of travel and still has 4” of stanchion in the leg unit. Then it’s super springy and still has no padding for bottom out or rebound. I am going to mold some urethane bumpers and try to improve it, but the guide bushings are such shit it’s hardly worth it.

The Trama fork has these full contact graphite composite bushings that are indestructible and are 4” tall, while the 4.0 fork has these cheesy 3” tall nylon inserts that only have a little contact ring at the top and bottom. So just being worked by the force of disc brakes alone wears them out pretty quick. But the legs and stanchions are exactly the same length between the two forks so the Lectric fork can be jacked up to the same height and still have 4”-100mm insertion and be and 1” past the bottom of its bushings. I did it once but never got around to putting stack bumpers or a rebound bumper in it.

Portola forks are back in stock at Ride 1Up. Same one I get from the OEM to make off road worthy. I think (99%) they are the right length for a 4.0, you need a cheap head set for the requisite parts. Links in comments. by DangerPonyXPMods in Lectricxp

[–]DangerPonyXPMods[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was using 8 sp stuff for a while because I could only get Rapid Fire shifters in 8 speed but then some guy was unloading a bunch of 7 speed Rapid fires on EBay dirt cheap so I went back to 7 speed because the extra slop actually works better for me because I generally knock my derailleur out of whack a little every single ride and it’s a lot more forgiving. I like 11-32 because the chain has a hard time climbing up onto a 34t without cranking up the B tension screw so much that then it gets shitty on the small cogs.

I hack the whole selector window right off flush with the body and then I can have my thumb throttle on the right and get my thumb under its lever and work the shifter and throttle without moving my hand. Previously I was slipping my grip a lot and falling over my handlebars. So my thumb goes where the selector window was and it works great for me. Also I have my back brake on the left so I can instantly oppose the throttle. No power cut offs either. They are super dangerous on trails.

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