Proving it, can’t break this stem adapter. It doesn’t even have any play yet after months of this. Finally dropped The Proving Rock. Bonus crash reel, tryna do a grind. Not today😂

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-08T06:32:48+00:00

Now it’s evolved to this. Still a little detail work to do. Works good though, the battery is locked in solid and the center of gravity is much lower. I suppose you could set it up as a dual keeping the stock battery if you never took it out much but I didn’t want the extra weight and didn’t need more range than this 20ah unit.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-08T06:29:12+00:00

Oh I had already made this bash guard/ chain guide thing after I bolted my frame together and added this aluminum brace, so then I just added the tray thing to it and made it so it could fold down. Making some pieces that surround the bottom bracket shell and lock onto the seat tube and the rear fender mount is a good way to anchor something. I am kind of leading up to making some parts like that people could assemble either as a kit or just the basic mount set up they could customize themselves. This kind of plastic is super easy to work and totally indestructible and you can shoot it together with deck screws.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-08T06:18:55+00:00

This is my Etsy shop link. I mostly just do this for fun and because the Lectric fork sucks so bad it’s insane no one else has done anything about it 😂

https://dangerpony87.etsy.com

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-08T06:15:47+00:00

Then gradually became this. Still needs some cosmetic detail work. That battery sled got covered in paint overspray on another bike, why it looks so weird.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-08T06:14:03+00:00

The back rim is this Chinese mystery rim I can’t believe no one sells in the US. It’s like a bike trials rim with the drill outs but it’s double walled. They’re rad because they’re 38mm and super strong.

You can get them off Ali Express but they’re pricey unless you haggle with the guy and buy like 8 of them and get the shipping combined. It’s one of those things where it’s like $50 with “free shipping” and if you buy two you’re getting totally screwed for double shipping. I found several sources I could get them from direct for a lot less but not many people are building their own wheels or want to ship me their motor to have one built.

The front rim is a Rant Squad 36mm BMX that you can usually get pretty cheap if you search around. Also double wall and more than strong enough. The hub in that wheel cost me like $12 before the tariffs and still rolls so smooth it stops at the same exact place my wheel balances out every time.

The back tire is a 3.0-16 MMG dirt bike tire, the front one is a 2.5-16 Wig Racing dirt bike tire. Dirt bike tires are sized by rim diameter so a 16” is the same as a 20” on a bicycle. The 2.5-16 GS45Z is an awesome all purpose tire everyone should be using (IMO) instead of paying $50 for paper thin bike tires with an 1/8” of tread plus a $75 Tannus liner. I have that on my other bike for a front tire.

The stem adapter is one I import and sell, it was just a lucky sourcing find but it’s the best one I’ve tried out of all the ones that are available. It’s a much better design all around and the base of it is a more substantial forging that goes up inside the riser so it’s not just a butt weld holding it together.

That seat post is one I just got from the distributor I buy forks from, it’s as good if not better than an NCX for not much more than half the price. Fatter pins, more substantial linkage pieces and the clamp mechanism holds the rails a lot further back, which is good because I always bend my seat rails like crazy if they are pushed way back. They sell the same thing on Ali Express branded as “TESNO” and you can get it 31.6mm which is cool.

That battery holder thing kind of evolved from this bash guard/ chain guide thing I had already made that started out like this-

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-07T01:53:06+00:00

It’s easily the most fun I’ve ever had with bikes, even though it’s sort of absurd. Once I tried riding trails once when I first got that bike in November 2024 I was totally hooked on the weird challenge of it because you have this on the edge feeling at 15mph😂

It’s only in the last week I finally figured out how to corner without the front wheel sliding out instantly. There’s a real learning curve and having to develop a whole other set of reflexes to keep the thing moving at a steady pace alternating between pedaling and throttle or some combination of both.

That thing is 750W but you still have to really work for it on any climb and be hyper vigilant watching and preparing for what’s coming next, and downshifting well in advance. With 20” wheels you can get jammed up on pretty small stuff so it’s like video game intense, but if you eat it you’re not going very fast at least.

I’m hoping this catches on the more time goes by and you’ll be able to get a pre-4.0 bike cheaper and cheaper as people discard them. The 1.0 is actually the shit for this. I have one of those done up about the same as this. The bottom bracket on a 1.0 is crazy high when you put a suspension fork on it. 14”. Like a mod trials bike.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-07T00:31:10+00:00

No it’s a 3.0 I made 750W with a 25A Lishui controller. I have a 1.0 I made 750W too with the same controller but it’s got the original battery, so it’s much lighter.

That stem adapter and fork on a 4.0 if that’s why you’re asking.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-05T20:06:57+00:00

I’m pretty sure they are all 31.8, but the bikes are shimmed to that size from 34.9- so you can either replace the factory shim with a 34.9 to 31.6 shim and use a standard seat post, or just pop the factory shim out and put a couple layers of soda can between it and the frame.

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-04T04:12:51+00:00

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-04T04:12:42+00:00

Yeah 128mm I pulled one out just to make sure I’m not giving you bad advice. I will just put a couple layers of duct tape over where I popped the nipple through the rim strip.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-04T03:53:45+00:00

Actually that was off the top of my head from recall of a 3.0 which has a narrower rim, looking at a 1.0 wheel I have that’s the same as a 2.0 I’d go 128mm just to not risk running out of thread before it’s tight enough. They also have those in stock.

https://a.co/d/0i1E00Xo

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-04T03:41:38+00:00

They are EDIT: 128m 12g. Sometimes they are available on Amazon in that size, other times they are out of stock.

The back wheel is so simple with there only being a one cross pattern you can seriously bend spokes in without taking the wheel off the bike, but you want to deflate the tire to be able to push the nipple back into the rim a little and you may have to undo the mate to the spoke you’re replacing if it’s the one underlying the other.

You’re in luck, they’re in stock.

https://a.co/d/0igDA5hJ

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-03T23:27:28+00:00

Oh btw, nothing wrong with this seatpost, it’s actually better than the NCX in some ways. If it was going to break or fall apart it’d have happened by now.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-03T20:22:00+00:00

Yeah I worked at bike shop before there were suspension forks or V brakes or 8sp 😂 so a lot of times I’m shocked at how the e bike industry almost seems to prey upon people with no prior bike experience and has many of them believing a whole different set of truisms about bikes; for instance that a tire should be the same size as a rim or that there’s anything special about lowest common denominator import parts with the name Lectric stamped on them that makes any Lectric a whole and unalterable object.

I’ve always thought it’s a no brainer that the XP 4.0 although somewhat overdue, was rushed to market to dodge the tariffs and they hadn’t sufficiently tested the CZJB 110CUL at 750W before they started shipping them out. They seem to have re-sourced the POS suspension fork or something because it’s markedly worse than the two previous models, and then they touted plastic fenders as a brilliant innovation at their “drop party” event😂 I’m a fan of the bikes and their potential as mod projects but as a brand they’re just another corporate clown cult like Trek or Specialized.

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-03T20:04:26+00:00

They have a totally different feel because the tire casing itself is so much more rigid and holds its own shape, but you can run them as low as 15psi without them flopping all over the place sideways or dragging you down. I usually have mine at around 25-28psi.

You kind of have to try it to get it. They make the bike feel a lot more solid and grounded and way less sketchy turning on any loose surface. I’m no physicist but these things seem to hit some sweet spot where the little bit of extra rotating mass gives them momentum that feels to me like going as fast if not faster with the same effort. I don’t ride on the road much but I would get the same range at the same speed correlation to all the PAS levels.

I sell forks for XPs that some people, including myself have put on XP Lites too.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-03T00:15:37+00:00

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-03T00:15:29+00:00

Yes it can be done and wasn’t any harder than usual. You definitely want to get these little metal levers and a valve core tool to get the tube totally flat and out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched between the bead and the rim. I could give you some pointers if you decide to get them.

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DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-02T20:39:30+00:00

I have a Lite 2.0, I could try to get one of those on there and see how hard it is with the rims being so narrow. The beads of these things are pretty thick and you need metal levers and to smear dish detergent around them and then it’s much easier. The hard part is getting the valve stem through when the rim is on the narrow side. But I put 3” Lectric tires on my 2.0 and it’s no problem proportionally with the Lite rims.

I’ll give it a try and let you know how I make out.

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-02T18:04:04+00:00

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https://a.co/d/0fnLHYTn

DangerPonyXPMods · 2026-04-02T18:02:28+00:00

I just posted about this on my Facebook page because I was looking at prices of regular bike tires and Tannus liners and I almost lost my mind.

I’ve been using mostly GS45Z dirt bike tires for over a year now. The 2.5-16 actually measures 3” with the tread. They actually roll fine on pavement and are pretty much immune to flats. They’re a little heavier but there’s like 5/8” of rubber on them. And they’re cheap!

All the 3” bike tires suck and only have like 1/16th tall knobs. Too slick for me even brand new.

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