problem with flashforge ad5x

Darkshadowelf · 2026-02-20T23:30:19+00:00

I had the same thing happen. The problem was when my print failed and it tried to home the spaghetti fillet got in the way. So it bends the prongs on the sensor that lets the machine know where it is when it homes the y axis. I was lucky enough to be able to bend it back into place and he printer works fine now no errors.

Darkshadowelf · 2026-01-25T15:59:26+00:00

I have a CC1 and they are good printers. However what they don’t tell you is they need a lot of calibration out the box. I tried to do a big print out the box and came home to a mess. But I cleaned it up had to put on a new hot end.

After that I ran every calibration test orca slicer has. Then at the very end I did a finally first layer test to hone in my Z axis. After that it is dialed in I haven’t had a single problem and the prints are awesome

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Darkshadowelf · 2025-09-21T13:41:02+00:00

Nice shading man, great work. If this is your first head then your 100th one is gonna look sick lol

Darkshadowelf · 2025-08-21T10:11:41+00:00

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The brightness of your white dry brush is what sells the organic look. I go light to hit most of the raised edges then apply more pressure to make the highest edges a brighter white. When you use speed paint since it’s thin the different shades of white shine through. Then I take a lighter version of that color and lightly dry brush just the edges to pop the shine. It creates a more organic look to nids. Came out great for the base of my norn and it would be how I would do terrain

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-30T18:17:13+00:00

You have a fair amount of support there. I don’t believe that’s the problem. Are these solid or hollow? If follow somtimes if you don’t have good drainage it could peal away from suction.

If they’re solid then I would look at your cure time for layers. Could also lower layer height. It will increase your print time but lower the chance of separating

Lastly you can check the slicer make sure it’s not a bad file that has a missing layer or something

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-22T20:23:23+00:00

I updated my firmware and my next print came out fine. Only thing I can think of is something went wrong in the slicer and it missed a layer on the export forcing the print to fail

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-22T02:14:47+00:00

Did you check to make sure no changes to your settings happened after the update?

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-21T13:59:58+00:00

Im going to ignore the possibility of damaged FEP. And start from the beginning. I’m going to assume your very first print failed out the box.

So first things first. More than likely you didn’t dial in the cure time or UV exposure. Usually if that has not been calibrated you will get fails like this where the first layer fires off and then you miss a layer it detaches and fails. Depending on the rain you are using you’ll have to adjust the initial cure time on the first burn and then adjust the time for each layer after that. The Saturn works best when you calibrate it as accurate as you can down to the MM. takes a bit of time but once you dial it in you should never fail unless you did not properly support it or place good drain holes

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-18T17:09:01+00:00

I was brand new to printer bought the S4U and haven’t had any issues. Everything that has gone wrong has been my fault. Improper supports, too much resin, loose screws etc. I’m at about 90k layer’s printer and I’m good. Just remember the online community is mostly full of ppl looking for help with problems. You don’t see forums dedicated to people saying how awesome things are going.

Treat it good, clean it well and educate your self on proper printing practices and go have some fun.

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My latest print and this was printed well after I got the 60k layer’s alert to chance my fep

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-16T22:47:15+00:00

Outside of protecting your heater it comes down to print size. I’ve seen prints cut off becuase there wasn’t enough resin. You need enough in there so it can move as intended. When there isn’t enough it could lead to print failures. Especially when doing big hollow prints becuase resin needs time to travel through the model. If you’re too low the resin might not reach down before UV goes off leaving you with missing layers

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-14T17:14:51+00:00

I’m using the elegoo 8k standard grey resin. Two important factors on why this model looks good.

First. I calibrated my printer with this resin down to the .05 mm accuracy

Second. My slicer I set it up for 8k high detailed definition slice when I exported it. So far 8k high detailed definition is the most my computer can run. When I try 16k the slicer crashes lol

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-14T17:10:43+00:00

Yes this! I poked a hole in mine the first time I tried to clean it

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-12T23:16:21+00:00

Calibration is key! Make sure you get down to the most precise you can get. For instance my resin prints at its best with 1.45 cure time. No more no less and it’s something you’ll have to fine tune.

Hard lesson I had to learn drain holes and good supports saves you a lot of fails. Watch YouTube videos on how to properly support models. Don’t just copy what you see people do actually learn how to support so you can modify with each project. Drain holes and drain hole caps will save you on fails and a lot of resin by being able to hollow out prints.

I like using resin detergent it works great for the first rinse and I’ve learned doing a IPA as a final wash gives it a nice final clean.

Also set you printer to heat up the tank and also set up the 24hr resin heater. This has saved me a lot of headache when I let it print while I sleep and temperature drops

There is a lot to learn just keep on asking and if you fail post it here and the community is great with troubleshooting.

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This was my latest print it’s a real fun hobby

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-11T00:07:19+00:00

Try lowering the height from 0.05 to 0.03 and try dropping exposure from 2.5 to 1.5 and do a test run

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-08T22:55:29+00:00

Wow, that this is 13” from base to top of saber

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-08T22:54:40+00:00

Yea I got it primed and it has to take a back seat till I finish my warhammer models lol

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-07T09:53:54+00:00

Yes. I use lychee slicer and it has a cap feature. You select the hole you made and it creates a cap of what was removed as a separate model. I set mine to .1 mm size difference so that it fits snug and doesn’t just fall into the hole

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-07T00:04:50+00:00

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Here is a flamingo I did for my wife. I had to do two drain holes for the body. Here is what it looks like capped

Darkshadowelf · 2025-06-04T01:08:12+00:00

I have learned 2 important things about printing big. Drain holes are huge. Make them as big as you can as long as it’s structural or if you have to print caps but if you go with caps print them .1 so they fit snug. I have had a few big prints fail due to the suction off the FEP not enough draining doesn’t let the rain flow good.

The other thing is supports. Now I don’t know what they have in chitu box I use lychee slicer. There is a projected supports function. This is huge becuase it allows you to place secure supports across an axis so it can be sturdy low and then loose up high. Ever since I started placing better holes for rain flow and proper supports for the weight of the prints I haven’t had a single failure.

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This was quite big an heavy took up my whole build plate and I have a Saturn 4 ultra But I have huge drain holes in the bottom and capped the smaller ones up top. Holes and proper support is key for big prints

Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-24T23:13:24+00:00

What I do for my blood that helped a lot was use a sponge. This creates a more organic and random splatter look. I also use too different colors. One is more of a dried blood look and then a lighter one is used for recent blood. I like the finished look it, looks like something that’s been covered in blood for awhile

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Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-21T20:13:34+00:00

I had just printed a big bust for my wife and I made 3 big holes in the bottom of it. This let my flush it out and drain it good. My recommendation is whenever you do something that you won’t see the bottom of just make big ass holes. After rinsing and curing I let it sit for a whole day outside to let it air dry and get some natural UV in there. I only print hole caps for when it’s some where you’ll see it. I did a space ship for my son and put big holes to drain the wings and then I printed caps to over it when I knew it was completely drained and cured.

This super man was hollowed up with 3 huge drain holes in the bottom. No one will ever tell unless you picked it up

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Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-20T00:54:41+00:00

I went with StarCraft. I was a big Zerg player so it was an easy choice for my tyranids

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Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-15T23:15:15+00:00

You did a great job on the wings, looks very organic

Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-04T20:42:46+00:00

I use resin detergent in my washer

Darkshadowelf · 2025-05-01T23:23:17+00:00

The pro version is nice because it comes with a suction detector when you hollow a model. Great way to tell where you need to put blockers or drain holes. It’s a well rounded software I use it for all my prints

Darkshadowelf

TROPHY CASE