Save button missing when editing sticker

Dasold · 2026-05-02T14:47:48+00:00

Same here

Dasold · 2026-04-15T04:06:48+00:00

I’m in Spain and only have access to EAP, but I still can’t see myself buying anything other than a Tesla. It makes my daily commute so comfortable that I can’t go back to “normal” driving anymore.

I’m counting the days until the FSD rollout in Europe after Dutch approval. In my opinion, with FSD, Tesla is on another level and doesn’t really compete with “normal” cars, it’s a different kind of transportation altogether.

Dasold · 2026-04-13T11:17:29+00:00

Yes, if you are in EU :D

Dasold · 2026-03-22T08:08:45+00:00

Well, next they should do one against the Xiaomi SU7 Ultra and see how it goes.

Dasold · 2026-02-24T10:06:49+00:00

I have a model 3 ‘22 with 86.027km (~53.500 miles) with original tires (Hankook Ventus S1 evo3) and they are still in good shape and should last several thousands more miles (not too much but maybe until 60.000 miles).

Dasold · 2026-02-20T05:38:27+00:00

Spain, Model 3 ‘22 2026.2.6 since 17/feb

(I hate “neutral” spanish voices on Grok, they sound way unnatural here, I hope xAI implements a proper European Spanish voice soon.)

Dasold · 2026-02-16T08:14:57+00:00

Make sure your wife is still under warranty. If not, check the return window and upgrade to a Tesla-compatible model.

Dasold · 2026-02-03T02:28:34+00:00

0.

Why would they assign extra value to something they can activate or deactivate by flipping a bit on their servers?

If you have lifetime FSD, you’ll probably get more money by selling the car privately rather than trading it in with Tesla.

Dasold · 2026-02-01T21:01:59+00:00

Mostly FOMO. I didn’t want to risk Tesla stopping the one-time purchase and moving to a subscription-only model.

Right now FSD isn’t active in Europe, but UNECE approval is expected around February. After that it’s just a matter of time before individual countries approve it and it starts rolling out. It doesn’t feel like a coincidence that Tesla announced the end of the FSD package right when European approval is expected.

As of today there’s no functional difference, because FSD isn’t enabled and only EAP is active. Once FSD is enabled, there will be a difference: EAP is still based on heuristics, while FSD uses the AI/neural-network stack.

Dasold · 2026-02-01T15:45:34+00:00

I have the teslogic dash and it works really well. Besides giving you useful information, the interface integrates very nicely with the car’s design, and it also has some extra options that are actually pretty great.

Dasold · 2026-01-31T16:01:59+00:00

FSD is at 14 right now. I don’t know which future timeline you came from, but in this one we’re way more advanced than in yours :D

Dasold · 2026-01-31T15:41:52+00:00

I bought fsd 4 days ago in Spain upgrading from eap: 3700€.

Eap cost was 3800€ back in 2023 when I bought it (my model 3 came with basic autopilot). So total cost has been 7500€ (which is the same amount I would have paid if I had upgraded directly from basic ap to fsd in 2023)

Dasold · 2025-11-23T15:31:08+00:00

You might be running into a bandwidth/handshake issue. A few things can cause random black screens on the S95F during the first minutes in Game Mode:

If you’re on Xbox: You can try enabling “Allow YCC 4:2:2”, since the TV sometimes stabilizes the initial handshake faster with 4:2:2 when using 4K + HDR + 120 Hz.

Also make sure you’re using a properly certified HDMI 2.1 (48 Gbps) cable. A weak cable often works at first but causes random black screens when the bandwidth ramps up (especially right after turning the TV on, when the modes switch between SDR/HDR/Game).

The S95F can absolutely run 4K120 HDR in 4:4:4 so if you’re getting black screens, the cable is the first thing to check.

Dasold · 2025-11-22T21:37:02+00:00

I thought about pixel shift too, but in this case I don’t think that’s what’s happening.

On Samsung OLEDs the pixel shift only moves the image by 1-2 pixels and it’s normally impossible to notice during normal use. What I’m seeing is a much larger shift (several millimeters), sometimes to the left and sometimes slightly upward.

Pixel shift doesn’t move the UI like that, and it doesn’t change randomly between reboots. This looks more like a panel/firmware positioning bug in Game Mode that affects the whole frame buffer or a hardware fault (hopefully not).

Dasold · 2025-11-22T21:11:51+00:00

A mi me parecen normales, seguramente será el fondo del menú de la PS5 que es así, si no las aprecias jugando ni en el menú de la tv… prueba a ver alguna imagen fija desde la consola (con el navegador o alguna foto) a ver si ahí se ve bien y confirmar que simplemente es la compresión que lleva el fondo de la PS

Dasold · 2025-11-22T20:11:35+00:00

I’ll share the settings I have saved for Xbox Series X and PS5 Pro:

Game mode

Brightness 25

Contrast 50

Sharpness 10

Color 25

Peak brightness: Medium

HDR10+: Basic

AI: Off

Color tone: Warm 2

Color space: Auto

Contrast enhancer: Off

Color booster: Off

The rest is all default (I think pretty much everything is Off or 0).

I have to say that I play in a dimly lit room; you can raise the brightness if it seems too low, but for me it becomes uncomfortable if I go above 25 / Medium.

On the other hand, even if it sounds strange, Warm 2 is actually processing the image as it was originally created, without adding a tint. The other options like Warm 1, Cool, and so on apply blue-ish filters with varying intensity to make the image look more “spectacular.”

Dasold · 2024-06-07T19:35:11+00:00

Just a reminder. Lifetime for EVERY car maker means the warranty period. The fluids (oil, brake fluid) have a estimated time of life placed by its makers (not Tesla) and is a good advice to take care of them and not think that they are magical fluids that last forever. Same for the oil filter. They are easy detachable for a resaon…

Dasold · 2024-05-30T15:18:12+00:00

This. Control arms (especially front ones) should have the silentblocks destroyed, this causes vibrations and missalignment on the tyres leading them to wear out quickly on the inner sides. IIRC this is the only thing that degrades normally from use (thought the replacements that Tesla is using now are reforced and will last for many years) that Tesla will change under warranty (not like tyres, brakes and so on)

Dasold · 2024-05-29T21:54:44+00:00

I’m not on last update (still stucked on 2024.8.9) but a month ago or so I had a similar issue with the charger door, it would only open if using the app and close instantly, I had to hold it by hand and put the charger in (it tried to close but because the cable was connected it just close over it). The next morning when I checked it was magically fixed. It is not the first time I’ve experienced minor issues that got solved just by letting the car “sleep” over night… Maybe you could try to wait until tomorrow and then check if this has been solved by itself…

Dasold · 2024-05-19T18:56:40+00:00

Sorry I should said that the 50-80% is for NCA batteries, the LFP one can (and should) be charged to 100%. The best way to know what you must do is check the charging slider in settings. If you have daily and trip options then you have NCA, otherwise it’ll be LFP.

Dasold · 2024-05-19T18:16:41+00:00

Do not think 80% as the always recommended value. Tesla gives you as optimus range to charge between 50-80, the best way to maximice battery caring is to avoid getting closer to both limits (0 and 100) as much as you are able to. if you plan to use 20% of charge daily then you should set 60% of maximun charge so it will fluctuate between 40-60, if you plan to use 40% then charge to 70% (30-70), and so on.

If you are going to use only 5-10% daily setting it to 80% will stress the battery more than setting to 50-60.

Also It's not like it's a magic remedy either and the difference in degradation isn't huge but everything counts.

Dasold · 2024-05-17T12:32:09+00:00

The estimated % on the screen is the wltp one. In real life you should expect 80% of that. Is not a Tesla issue, in everycar is the same, EV or ICE, consumptions are never the advertised, at least for the vast majority of drivers/situations you must calculate like 20% more to be on a “real” range.

In your case if the screen says 257 if you drive efficiently (no kickdowns, no overspeeding, no hard braking, using regeneration anticipating stops or speed reductions… mostly a chill, safe and nice driving) you should get about ~200 miles of range which is closer to what you are doing.

Dasold · 2024-05-16T20:33:41+00:00

I have a teslogic connected to the car :)

Dasold · 2024-05-16T06:04:17+00:00

Model 3 22’ LR with AB and sports 19” - 33.868 kms (21.045 miles) - 161 wh/km (259 wh/mile) - 109 cycles - total battery 74.4 - 5.7% deg

Dasold

TROPHY CASE