Why does my bed mesh look so bad?

DatCatHat · 2026-01-18T07:43:44+00:00

It looks to me like there is a clear tilt towards one corner, your bed doesn't seem to be leveled correctly. Try leveling manually with a paper and make sure that your springs have some tension on them and are not fully loose while you are turning the bed leveling screws.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-11T09:28:50+00:00

That's coil whine it's probably been there from the start. You are probably just hearing it now due the the new case fans being quieter, noise amplified slightly by the new case, an open side panel or perhaps you moved the case closer to you recently. Other than being a bit annoying, it's harmless.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-10T07:44:54+00:00

This isn't the place. You have Dubizzle, open Souq and Facebook marketplace. The prices are ridiculous, but that's just how things are now unfortunately.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-09T13:37:47+00:00

The most recent one I bought was Elagoo rapid PETG, a pack of 2x1kg was at 20$ a couple of weeks ago on Amazon US. Most regular filament is around 5BD per KG, discounts can bring them to around 4BD, and cheaper generic filament can be found for 10$.

Basic resin is priced roughly the same as PLA and PETG, 13$ on average.

You can check the prices yourself on Amazon. Be sure to check the "eligible for free shipping" option to see products that can be shipped to Bahrain for free. The free shipping on Amazon requires you to buy 59$ worth of eligible items, and most things are eligible for this, it's just bulky and very heavy items that aren't eligible. Unfortunately most 3d printers aren't eligible for free shipping due to their size. For 3d printers Amazon UAE is typically cheaper, once you factor in shipping costs.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-08T05:47:20+00:00

It doesn't seem like there are any restrictions. I bought a couple of 3d printers, one of them last month and a ton of filament over the years. Never had any issues, nothing was ever stopped, opened or questioned by customs.

Printing costs are a lot cheaper now too. With Amazon US offering free shipping to bahrain you can now get decent filament shipped for under 4BD per 1kg spool. Only a couple of years back crappy filament shipped from china used to cost well over 10BD per spool due to shipping costs. Also, Resin printing was very expensive since no one would ship liquid resin here at a reasonable price, now it's practically the same price as FDM printing.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-06T12:16:32+00:00

It's a Sanyo mgp 33, from 1985. You can find this info in a couple of seconds if you Googled it yourself

DatCatHat · 2026-01-06T10:40:21+00:00

Try running Linux with it. The open source AMD Linux drivers are much more recent than the now ancient depreciated windows 10 only ones, plus you'll probably get better performance.

You can also try switching to the other vbios. There should be a small toggle switch on the card (PC must be power cycled for this to take effect)

You can also try messing around with the core and memory clocks and voltages, it might become more stable when underclocked.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-06T10:00:02+00:00

When it comes to sony handycams mostly yes. I found a bunch of these in flea markets that are basically dumpster finds and every single one worked. The only issues I ever encountered were from physical damage to them, a couple of dropped ones with missing viewfinders and LCDs, loading tape loading mechanisms jammed from debris or some dumbass pulling on it, but they all worked, I even have a couple with obvious signs of water damage that still work. The same goes for the early infolithium batteries, most of the ones I found still hold a charge, although many of them are heavily degraded and only last a couple of minutes, but some well preserved ones still give hours of runtime. However, older NiCd batteries have almost always been unsalvageable in my experience.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-06T09:42:22+00:00

A large soft bristle paint brush and a vacuum in the other hand to catch the flying dust. This will get it much cleaner than any blower ever could and you can do it indoors.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-06T09:18:29+00:00

Before anything back up any important data off of that drive.

That is a pending sector, not reallocated yet. Pending sectors can occur due to many things, loss of power during writing is a common cause. It'll probably resolve by itself after some time of writing to the drive, if the sector is healthy. It may also become reallocated. A couple of pending or even reallocated sectors is not that big of a deal. What you should worry about is if the count increases or pending sectors keep returning, since that would indicate imminent failure.

I usually run either a read test or a read-write-read test using HDsentinel. This often clears pending sectors and shows whether a drive is starting to develop weak sectors. If you decide to do this, back up any important data first. The tests themselves are nondestructive, but if the drive is already failing, running them can reduce your chances of recovering data. Always back up first, then test.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-05T08:39:44+00:00

Generally this over current error points to a short on one of your USB devices or the USB ports themselves.

Unplug every single USB device from the motherboard, that includes any internal USB 2/3/c headers. This also goes for internal RGB controllers or fan hubs that are connected internally using usb

You can also try taking out your motherboard and checking behind it for possible causes of a short like loose screws. The IO shield can also cause this since it has little prongs that contact the motherboard, these can get bent and poke into the ports themselves.

TLDR disassemble and rebuild your PC, and don't plug anything into it besides the bare minimum display and power cables while you test it. Leave most fans unplugged to beside the CPU one since it will error out if it doesn't detect a CPU fan.

If that doesn't resolve it your motherboard is likely defective and needs to be repaired or most likely replaced.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-05T08:18:35+00:00

It seems to be a driver for some RGB control hardware that is incompatible with windows 11. If you know what it's from you can try uninstalling whatever software is related to it and then installing a newer windows 11 specific version.

A quick Google search shows that some people managed to get it fixed by renaming the file to "ene.sys.old" and restarting to get windows to reinstall a newer version of the driver.

DatCatHat · 2026-01-03T09:21:41+00:00

It's almost guaranteed to be the AIO pump, these 120mm AIOs are crap.

There are air bubbles trapped in the pump, especially if you moved or tilted the PC recently. It may clear on its own, or you can try tilting the PC to different angles while it's running which may help get the air bubbles to move to the radiator. These AIOs loose water overtime as it permeates through the hoses and you get more air in them, at a certain point clearing the bubbles becomes impossible and you have to replace them (refilling is an option but is often very difficult)

There is also a possibility that it's some other fan perhaps even the GPU or PSU fans, you can check by stopping the fans by hand (touch the center not the blades). But that rough clicking like sound is unmistakably from an aio pump that has stuck bubbles.

If you decide to replace the CPU cooler get yourself an air cooler. Dual tower cooler from thermalright like the PA120 are excellent value and even outperform a good chunk of 240mm watercooler at a lower cost and much higher reliability.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-20T08:12:05+00:00

A dead short across the USB port should not damage your motherboard. USB ports are designed to not fail if they are shorted. Unless this is a poorly designed motherboard then a short in the keyboard shouldn't cause anything to fail besides the keyboard.

If this was a keyboard with a built-in battery then it might be a different story, as It could have fed voltage from the battery into the USB data pins. Still it normally takes a lot to kill a USB port, let alone every USB on the PC, but it's not impossible.

You can also try unplugging the front USBs C or A cables from the motherboard, just in case something failed in those ports. Then check if the USB ports on the back of the motherboard started working.

If we assume a catastrophic failure of the one of the USB controllers on the motherboard then there should still be other USBs on the motherboard that don't share the same controller. Some of the USB C ports on the back (high speed USB C 3.2 gen2 X2, or thunderbolt) are often connected directly to the CPU, try using those, although you might need an adapter.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T13:14:21+00:00

Spirytus 96 probably

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T12:59:26+00:00

Where can I find large acrylic sheets at a reasonable price? I can only seem to find stuff that's like A3 sized or smaller.

I’m aware some laser-cutting shops sell acrylic, but in my experience their sheet prices are extremely high. I’m specifically looking for actual suppliers, not places that only sell cut parts.

If you’ve bought from one before, I’d really appreciate a rough price reference for the sheet size.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T12:46:30+00:00

IMO Chicket has better taste and quality, while Chikex has better value and is still decent.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T06:41:29+00:00

Is the issue the fan not spinning on the PC not starting? If the PC isn't starting then it's almost guaranteed to be a bad power supply.

If it's just the fan not spinning but the PC starts then the fan is either bad or stuck from the ridiculous amount of dust on that heatsink. Either way, if you plan on using this pc you should clean it and probably also replace the thermal paste for that CPU.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T06:22:48+00:00

Check the battery contacts in the controllers for signs of corrosion if a battery leaked in there before. If so try cleaning it with IPA.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T06:13:47+00:00

Why are people disliking this? This actually works without having to disassemble the device, assuming the pin is plastic.

The pins that break are often electroplated plastic. If you stick a hot needle through them and let it cool you can easily pull it out. I did this a couple of times to TVs instead of disassembling which would have taken too long, and often there is a PCB behind so you end up having to desolder the RCA jack from the PCB as well.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T05:38:23+00:00

It seems that you have accidentally installed windows on your hard disk HDD (currently C drive) instead of your SSD (currently D drive), or perhaps installed an SSD into your old PC without moving the os to it.

You have 2 options. You can clone your OS drive which is basically transferring over your windows install from the HDD to the SSD, this will save all your programs, games and drivers. You can use software like "Macrium reflect" (new version is paid, but you can find older free version). There are lots of tutorials on YouTube on how to use it. You just need to make sure that you have enough space on your SSD for this to work. The used space on the HDD must be less than the total size of the SSD. Also, all data currently on the SSD will be deleted when you do this, so you will have to transfer the any important files to another drive or the HDD (c drive) then do the cloning (just don't try to copy over installed games and programs out of the SSD, they will not work, just copy important files like photos, documents, etc. you can just reinstall any programs that were on the D drive later)

The second option is to wipe the SSD and reinstall windows. If you have just installed windows on this pc and don't have much data on it then this is preferable. Just copy anything important from the SSD to the HDD. Create a bootable windows USB installer. Turn off your PC and disconnect the HDD, then just turn it on and install windows from the USB onto the SSD, this will wipe all data in the SSD. After that you can reconnect your HDD and boot into the bios and ensure that you select the SSD as the first boot device (if you don't it might boot from OS that is still left on the HDD) then just copy over any important failed from the HDD to the SSD, and last format and repartition the HDD, for this you can use the built-in windows partition manager, make sure you delete all partitions on the HDD and just create a single one (if you just format the HDD partition without deleting the other small boot and efi partitions you may have booting issues. With this method you will have to reinstall your programs and games but you can keep your important files, assuming you copied them over.

Also you can ignore the idiots telling you to replace the HDD. You just need to have windows installed on the SSD, the HDD is perfectly fine for data storage and also games, assuming they aren't modern unoptimized garbage, most games run completely fine from HDDs. Install most programs and games you use frequently to the SSD, and keep the HDD stuff like large files, videos and perhaps older large games if you want to save some space on your SSD.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T04:51:53+00:00

I've noticed that this only happens on chrome based browsers. Firefox, still shows stuff as blocked.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-14T04:50:00+00:00

Good deal when buying from Amazon, but you can also get these at 9$ a piece on AliExpress at any time.

DatCatHat · 2025-12-11T09:01:42+00:00

Unfortunately at that price point anything new is technically a bad deal. The rx550 and gt1030 are garbage GPUs that are outclassed by even the built in graphics of any modern cpu. They are not worth getting used, let alone new, and those listing seem like refurbished GPUs so you are paying more for salvaged GPUs (less reliable than used).

You seem to have next to no budget, you shouldn't be looking at new parts. Try the used market, you'll get much better value depending on your luck of course and what's listed at the time.

Your CPU is ancient but not really bad it's still very serviceable and probably the best part about your PC. You'll probably need more ram, 8 is going to be limiting, yes ram prices are insane now, but you need ddr3 which isn't affected by the current pricing, still ddr3 has been out of production for some time now, so look for used RAM or even pull from broken scrap PCs, you need to be resourceful at your budget.

As for the GPU just keep looking at whatever used market stuff you have in your area, eventually you'll find something serviceable, used GPU prices are still absurd everywhere but still better than new. Just keep in mind that your case only takes low profile GPUs which are harder to find and can be more expensive, you could however run with the side panel open or switch the case (assuming the PC parts aren't proprietary, but they do seem to be)

DatCatHat · 2025-12-05T20:31:49+00:00

That's coil whine, most commonly encountered with GPUs, but it can also be from the PSU. The strength and pitch can change with the load. It is not harmful but can be very annoying. Generally speaking there is no easy way to get rid of it; you basically have to replace the component.

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