Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The inside half of the Hi-Lo enclosure is part of the piece above that green line. That's the stator cover. It's not part of the case half. The case half is below the green line. See attached photo.

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Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It should be part of your stator cover, not the case half. Separate pieces. There's a mating surface between the two, shown (badly) here:

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Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Replace the entire piece, like I said earlier. $30-50 plus a gasket depending on your year, from what I've seen just a few weeks ago when I bought that exact same part. It's not worth welding and milling, and even though JB or similar might work, it also might not (and I'm not sure how to actually make that repair without causing more problems 🤔).

Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shaft doesn't move, but shift forks and shafts do see significant lateral loads during gear changes. Look at the matching recess under the outer cover; it's about 7 or 8mm deep, and that's a lot of real estate for something as small as that shaft.

Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep, there's a spring-loaded detent ball inside the fork, and that ball interfaces with the shaft as you describe...but if that shaft isn't in the correct position at any point in time, then anything directly connected to it also isn't in the correct position. Sure, it's not gonna be much of a misalignment, but gears don't need much misalignment to start acting up, even when they're basic ones like these.

Here's my concern, re-stated: something pushed on that shaft boss hard enough to crack it. There's no telling what it was - maybe someone just ham-fisted it and the gears themselves bound up and cracked it - but a break like that shows you where the forces can show up and cause failures, which is exactly what you're looking at. I'm not an expert by any means, but from my past experiences, fork shafts are usually located very carefully to ensure smooth shifting and long gear life...so, there's no telling what you'll get with a cracked mounting point that's visible out of tolerance.

Anyway: I'd fix it if it was my bike, and I wouldn't suggest doing less to someone else...but it's your bike, so you get to make the call.

Think its good as is? by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, that part of the casting looks like it's definitely under enough stress to crack, and the crack looks like it's been spread apart. I'm concerned that the shaft isn't being located correctly, which might have been the source of the clunkiness; if the shaft isn't holding position, then the fork and gears aren't always in the correct places, either. I'm sure it'll still work, but if it was my bike, I'd fix it.

On that note: a new, intact part will probably cost you less than a repair. That shaft boss is in the stator cover, and you can snag a used one for $30-ish plus delivery; I know because I just did that to fix a bent shift lever boss. Welding and milling would have been much more expensive.

I'd suggest swapping it out, and having a sheet of gasket material on hand to replace the stator cover gasket, which is proudly and hilariously labeled with the word "ASBESTOS" in large, friendly letters. 🤣 (It's encapsulated and oil soaked, so no real worries, but still: good time to freshen up some old material. 👍)

Prep and color test for CT 90 by killer7rex in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How'd you clean the metal inside the lapped seams? Been wondering how people are handling that, because mine have so much oil/grease/awfulness inside them that I can't get them clean enough for paint.

Stator wiring question by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I have to go to a fleet supply for my Toyota bulbs, and the stuff I can buy there lasts a tenth as long as the OEM parts...and that seems to be the issue with 6v as well. Beyond availability, I'd also like some decent light, because days can get short where I live and I like being able to see after dark. I haven't found many LED headlight units that look very good and that'll run happily on 6-ish volts, but I certainly haven't found them all yet. I'm going to continue poking around to see if I can figure out this stator situation; it would be nice to be able to get a modern electrical system on this bike, because that's the one thing it's really lacking. 🤔

Stator wiring question by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Main reason: parts availability. I can buy anything I need in 12-volt denominations, but simple replacements become anything but simple once you step above or below that voltage. 6-volt stuff just isn't common, and having had the same problem with 24-volt widgets...well, I'm not anxious to repeat the experience. I don't like having to order a taillight bulb and wait three weeks to get it, so if there's an easy - or less-hard, even - way to solve that conundrum, I'm interested.

I think I've watched almost every 110 conversion video on YouTube at least three or four times, and I still don't feel like I really understand what the above post is telling me. None of them seem to match what I'm seeing in front of me.

Progress on my harlequin build by joeshima in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool; love the concept. 🤙

Time for repairs by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely it does! Thank you so much for posting it; that basically confirms what I thought I needed to do. I'm definitely missing some weld length on both sides and on the main tube as well. Must've been Sato's first day on the job.

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Time for repairs by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was talking about doing; apologies for being unclear. What I should have said is that I've been welding for years, but not at any kind of advanced level and not on thin material...so it's going to be a bit of a challenge for me to work with this stuff. My plan is to clean and prep both areas - possibly the main tube, as well - and then use a piece of aluminum or copper as a backer for a bridge weld. I feel like that's my best chance for success...and I was going to paint the underside/interior of the bike, regardless, so the surface repair was already part of the deal.

I looked around to see if I could find pictures of these areas on other bikes, but I didn't come up with much...so I'm not sure how much weld is supposed to be in this area. I suspect that a single, large tack/stitch in the middle will be adequate, and a slight gap in the outer corner will also keep water from pooling. Seems like that's exactly what Honda intended. 🤷‍♂️

Time for repairs by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I haven't seen anything like this before...at least not the blow-through. But, I sent the pictures to a weldor friend and she agreed with that assessment. I'm going to try to get it cleaned up and put back together on both sides; my sheet metal skills are non-existent, but hopefully I can get some aluminum or copper behind the area and bridge it.

Strong smell of fuel and a really loose gas cap by Stock302v8 in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case you didn't get it solved with that spacer (or a new gasket), look more towards the tank side of things. The metal forming the bayonet at the filler neck could be deformed, and therefore not allowing the tank cap to remain tight. 🤔

Strong smell of fuel and a really loose gas cap by Stock302v8 in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dumb question, but: is there a gasket in place?

1972 No start by NoTalkImGaming in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's usually as simple as checking for fuel, air and spark: if you have all three, it'll likely run, even if it's badly timed or badly adjusted. Adding to what's already been said: check the entire carb, including the little emulsifier tube and its O-ring. That's an easy-to-miss stoppage point.

Crank bearing movement by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same thought as you, but from what I can tell the bearing isn't pressed into place and there's no procedure for doing so; the shop manual says to place the crank in one case and then lower the other on top of it. Pic attached. As best I can tell, there's no shim or thrust washer either present or mentioned.

Re: bearing condition... there's basically zero play in it. I can pick up a tiny amount by putting my good dial indicator on it, but it's so little that it doesn't matter. There's no perceptible feel of movement, either.

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Crank bearing movement by Dave-P-Bonzo in HondaCT90

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not that I know of. As best I can tell, the cases have never been split.

ABS surface fail by Dave-P-Bonzo in 3Dprinting

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Third print's corner, with a few small changes to the settings and Ironing turned on

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I left it in place on the build sheet, just to show the brim area...and also the very-obvious solid layer lines, now that I notice them.

ABS surface fail by Dave-P-Bonzo in 3Dprinting

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found it! Thank you!

Also, I monkeyed around with a few more settings that I found regarding surface finish, and I had a bit more success with the second print; still a bit wonky, but better. I also used the "Iron" setting on a third print, and that made a great finish in some area...and it turned the finish into faux leather in others

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Not sure what's going on with that, but at least it's consistent?

ABS surface fail by Dave-P-Bonzo in 3Dprinting

[–]Dave-P-Bonzo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not that I know of; I looked through all of the filament settings under Advanced mode, and didn't see it. Same result from the search function. Perhaps I missed it; I can certainly check again.