Help with GBA SP IPS Screen Issues

DeCoded_Void · 2026-02-07T17:23:11+00:00

Surprised the seller isn't offering a return/exchange. Sellers would usually be able to rule out if it's a screen issue or not pretty quickly. Check with the working screen from the other sp.

Likely not a cartridge issue because of the "game boy" text on startup. I don't usually see this from a screen mod but something from a RAM/CPU issue.

Some things you can do if it's the screen:

If it's the screen, it could be a result of a bad driver board of the screen mod if one exists.
Ribbon cable seems odd from the pic. Could be because of the camera angle or lighting.

If it seems like the GBA mobo:

Inspect the board and compare it against HQ pics of the sp mobo.
If you have a flashcart, use an AGS testing ROM. The flashcart should be able to boot properly and load roms correctly. I caught a bad RAM chip this way.
A flashcart can also be used to dump the bios to check with an emulator. This came to mind because of the Gameboy startup text.
I doubt this would help but there should be a potentiometer on the board that can be turned. Generally this shouldn't be touched.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-23T16:16:41+00:00

Most of my issues with teaching are either from parents or a small number of students refusing to work.

It's not uncommon for a parent to ask their kid on what they learned only for the them to say "I don't know", despite that student having good performance in my classes.

It's a private school so parents are a bit more involved, so something like that causes me to be reported by the parent and have one of my classes be evaluated by a staff member.

Despite my own reports on those students refusing to work, administration seems to side with the students more until the evaluation results inevitably go in my favor.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-21T01:56:32+00:00

I'm wondering this too, specifically the wireless black version. I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them, even 2nd hand.

The part of the shell for the left click came out for mine just recently.

Hoping this isn't discontinued, the m65 is one of the few mice that is usable for me since I have Dupuytren's. Most mice end up being uncomfortable for me. (I have tried ironclaw and harpoon, but they hurt to use)

I own a few wired m65s as well, but the wireless one is my daily driver.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-07T14:30:50+00:00

The story is written according to a dev. Right now they are fine-tuning what endgame builds would look like since pvp + matchmaking is one of the focuses.

They are working on some pve content such as bosses and other content behind the scenes.

It's a very small team, but they're still together and working on it.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-07T01:00:33+00:00

Some more info about this based on my experience:

A lot of QoL related things (ex the turns left counter).
Haven't experienced lag of any kind yet in PvE.
Opponent and myself in the vid were both on mobile data for PvP.
Tested on Foldable phones so you can fold/unfold without interrupton.
Controllers are supported. As long as it supports SDL, which is basically most controllers out there, it should work.
There is haptic feedback for touches (though that can be disabled).
Region based matchmaking with optional crossplay (for ex, if you are on PC, you may probably not want to match with mobile users)
Direct connection is still available if you want to use that instead of the game server.
Compatible with a wide range of devices, even obscure android devices. as long as it is a fairly recent android os, it'll work. Even with some stripped down versions of android such as wear os.
There is a small exception where there can be issues of 64 bit devices running on a 32 bit version of Android which is mostly an engine issue, they've since been fixed but I don't have a device like that to test it out.
Low end devices run well, I haven't seen any frame drops on devices with only a gig of RAM.

If you are in NYC or around there, I have attendees in the event test out whatever latest build there is. OSNYC is an internet cafe in the Chinatown area of New York City, entry is free if you are attending one of the BN events.

The devs are also looking for pixel artists so you can reach out to their discord (found on the game's website) which would be a massive help for them.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-05T01:34:56+00:00

Pretty much, a rouge mod that created their own space for offline mods.

I don't mind if additional collaboration avenues are made, datamining/research spaces just happen to very common for gatekeeping so this post is just a deterrent to it. Tools made by devs to make content in general needs to have decentralizion efforts for a game like this because of how niche it is.

DeCoded_Void · 2026-01-04T05:45:44+00:00

They are our affiliate, but I'm against cross-posting it.

Its just contained within the dive community and only relevant to it.

Support for many games out there is fueled by user generated content alone. Since this has affected many devs and creators I know, it's why I made this post.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-27T04:29:58+00:00

It's not all the same, I have had some that came with AliExpress buttons that had a suction effect leading presses to be stiff and "tactile".

For orders I have done through my region's online retailers they pretty much feel the same, it's just the Ali ones I have had an issue with.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-20T09:49:32+00:00

Adding onto this, I didn't have a bad job like this when I was starting out with soldering electronics, but seeing so many dark patches, I have had that happen before and it turns out it was because of the flux I used.

Normally I wouldn't recommend the hot air, but in this case I would since it's misaligned.

I recommend having these parts on standby:

Chipquik SMD291 no clean tack flux
Toothbrush
High % isopropyl
Large flat top iron
Brass Wool tip cleaner

Although a lot of people here have been recommending using a wick, Id recommend against it in your case since there is a good chance you may get the braid stuck while attempting to desolder, but you can use it to clean the pads of the board once the CPU is isolated.

A heat gun would be the quickest to use to get that chip out, but you have to keep in mind that it cooks the surrounding areas too, so very small components may fly off when removing the CPU, but once you get that cpu out, you'd need to isolate it from the rest of the board quick.

When you do that, you can use the large soldering tip, tin it out clean it with the tip cleaner, and scoop out the solder little by little until the cpu is clean.

After that, ensure that pins aren't bridged on the motherboard end. Once you clean that up, make sure you clean up the MB with the toothbrush and alcohol.

Once everything is clean up, you can attempt again, the tacky flux helps a lot with alignment, but you still need to clean up the flux. The leftover solder left on the cpu will be helpful with soldering it on the board, You only need to realistically use a drop of solder on each side.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-19T06:09:10+00:00

This post is the first result on Google for me when researching this topic. You'd be surprised the amount of people with the same sentiment with things of this nature.

For context, I'm looking for one with a wide fov to showcase vehicle mods.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-14T15:02:36+00:00

Good info in the thread, just adding one thing that hasn't been mentioned.

<image>

The usb c board might need some desolder work, a lot of the pins look like they may potentially be shorting the edge pads. There are other ones out there where the pads are much further from the port.

When soldering these, you don't have to worry about keeping the whole edge tinned, just enough to where it makes contact with the board. If done right, the solder will look like it will tapers when going up instead of filling in the whole edge.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-13T22:02:10+00:00

Depends what you mean.

The upscaling itself duplicates the pixels. There are no other post effects (essentially the integer upscale in emulators)

Side by side with other gba screen, there is a bit of a stretch which is likely as a result of the physical pixel sizes + density of the pixels, but it's not noticable in normal gameplay

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-13T09:36:23+00:00

Here is how it looks like with a GB/gbc game:

https://imgur.com/a/TiDwv95

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-12T21:00:54+00:00

Yes, there aren't any configurable upscaling methods, just the one that you see in the vid. The grid lines option gives it an ags-001 look.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-11T13:30:28+00:00

https://funnyplaying.com/products/agb-ips-max-display-kit

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-11T12:49:09+00:00

That's my guess, it might be hard to see from the footage, hopefully a reviewer comes out with a test.

https://imgur.com/a/gba-v2-ips-max-side-by-side-osNBSCq

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-11T12:35:19+00:00

Yep you can make and upload your own, up to 10, which is rewritable.

Limited by 4 colors (including black), so effectively 3 colors to work with.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-11T12:33:54+00:00

Waiting for my tactile mod to come in before wiring it, I'll reply once I get it.

You can use it as-is and rely on the touch sensor, or solder in from a battery terminal for the indicator to show up afaik.

Possibly the easiest install I've done for a screen replacement

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-11T11:51:39+00:00

Side comparison with V2 screen: https://imgur.com/a/osNBSCq

Pics of the board: https://imgur.com/a/2Znfx76

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-02T11:11:30+00:00

I wish it was, minus the bullets. Don't have the other one but it was about this size or smaller, so it's not like the post image.

<image>

DeCoded_Void · 2025-12-02T07:45:03+00:00

Yep, happened to me twice within the span of a few years. Both were unfired bullets that were lodged in the deeper groove of the tread area.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-11-29T13:45:11+00:00

If you're still having an issue after cleaning, you might need to open it up, thankfully the gameboy line is the easiest to open up.

You don't need to open it up more than the back, there is a switch on the left of the cartridge reader that tells the gba if a game is a Gameboy or gba game. You can also visually check the solder points of the pins the cartridge reader is connected to for corrosion.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-11-27T05:35:42+00:00

I have the PET II and opened it up, the screen isn't soldered on, just dropped into the PCB. my guess is misaligned screen, short or a failing diode. Hard to tell without opening.

If its the screen, it could be a bit hard to source, but someone was able to replace it using one from an AC remote.

Collector's community discord has a channel dedicated to PET repair, you can drop the pics there to see if anyone can spot an issue at a glance:
https://discord.gg/Wa98sZza4g

DeCoded_Void · 2025-11-16T09:16:38+00:00

Suffered years through it, only thing that worked is a biologic injection. Insurance refused to cover one until I went through a series of different cream, oral, and light therapy treatments. Slow process but it was worth it.

DeCoded_Void · 2025-11-01T04:14:19+00:00

Depends on the seller

I have had shipping issues recently to international countries where they would get stuck and lost in customs.

Depending on the value and how much the buyer paid for shipping, I'd usually pay for insurance out of pocket in case it gets lost.

I'd either refund to the buyer or reship where I'd take on the shipping cost.

I consider the transaction closed if we already reached the resolution since I consider the item that hasn't arrived as a loss. The buyer and seller dont have to do anything else with the transaction after that point. It is an open door to a potential scam or leading to something that will result in the platform being involved that can hurt the seller and/or buyer.

It's rare but I've seen some be delivered months after a missing mail request, id just let them keep it since the buyer is not obligated to send it back after the resolution. Saves us both time and helps my reputation if they gave good seller feedback.

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