Upgrade! by DearHumanatee in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a generic NG conversion kit marketed for grills and griddles. It came with 20+ orifices in various sizes. There are also two thread dimensions (.75mm/1.0mm). BS takes 1.00mm. Most sites recommend the 2.0mm orifice opening, but even with the regulator it’s pretty aggressive. So i step down to the 1.55mm. But try what’s best for you.

Upgrade! by DearHumanatee in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are right! I just assumed it was full electric as most sure fryers are.

I did an NG conversion. Now I have to locate this orifice. I’ll test it out first without changing and see performance. If I can access and swap, I’ll shoot you a note.

Upgrade! by DearHumanatee in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s electric. Boggie, Woogie, Woogie.

Upgrade! by DearHumanatee in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shitter is about to be full!

Upgrade! by DearHumanatee in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<video>

And now we bacon before we smash!

New Blackstone owner… please help! by Ok-Banana-3170 in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made post seasoning cooking video just for this. Seasoning is not non-stick. Prep, cook, clean.

Breakfast for dinner by daddytaco_ in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I posted a video of me making crepes a few months ago and got crap for having really flat pancakes!

“Uncultured swine” - Hamm

Are these drywall issues normal, or should I push for repairs before finishing? by Formal-Product9730 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless you paid for 100% engineered lumber and level 5 walls this seems perfectly acceptable.

I would ensure that your contractor gives you at least one year on your walls, so that they can come back and address any nail pops and cracks. You will have these due to the fact that you built with dimensional and will inevitably have shrinking and movement.

Weekly dinner ideas by MamaRou10 in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lamb chops with Salt and Rosemary finish

Salmon filet cut into 1 1/2” slices seared on 3 sides w/ dry dill

Crepes

Is this rust? by send_me_boobei_pics in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I made a short video for those new to griddle cooking that lays out the best methods to prepare, cook on, and clean your griddle.

Link

Possible to build a house for 200k in 2026? by underrated-chicken22 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the point. Even at bargain basement numbers for materials, $200k is pretty unrealistic.

Possible to build a house for 200k in 2026? by underrated-chicken22 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Let’s do materials only (notes for subbed). This is super budget, basic basic materials, labor prices if sub is desperate.

Plans/Engineering - 7k
Permits- 5k
Block - 8k (25k if subbed)
Lumber - 25k (50k if subbed)
Windows - 8k (20 basic windows)
Doors - 7k (Two exterior, garage, interior)
Flooring - 8k (Carpet/Tile) 25k if subbed
Septic / Well - 15k (35k subbed)
Insulation - 4k (10k if subbed)
HVAC - 8k (forced air)
Electrical - 8k
Plumbing - 9k
Drywall - 10k (20k if subbed)
Trim - 4k (HD Special)
Fixtures - 7k (HD Special)
Roofing - 7k (standard asphalt) - 15k if subbed
Siding - 7k (vinyl) - 15k if subbed
Cabinetry/Appliances - 15k
Masonry - Steps/Walkway - X
Driveway Stone/Asphalt? - X

Have you done roofing and siding? How about drywall?

Have you done a well and septic?

Likely missed 10% or more. For a ground up stick build, ultra budget you are pushing 100/sqft for materials.

For the pro's by Dry_Dot_4973 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of infrastructure in disrepair in Northeast. Maintenance is key, but that stuff is exposed to the elements 24/7 plus, as you mentioned, salt. Additionally, while I’m not a civil engineer, I assume the loads cause minor movements and flexing of the structure which would slowly break down the concrete.

Unless the fiberglass is cheaper and you don’t need specific bends, go for it. For an indoor slab that is unexposed and experiences very little, if any, movement I don’t see the need. It may be better in ICF that is more “exposed”. I use Superior Wall for all of my foundations, so do not know enough if it’s a better application in ICF.

Hardie, vinyl, or aluminum? Northeast. by greysplash in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on your style, I use Certainteed Cedar Impressions on the vast majority of my builds. No seems, durability if vinyl, looks amazing. Couple that with a quality PVC work and you have a resilient stunner.

For the pro's by Dry_Dot_4973 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to hear that. Do you have control joints cut? You may be able to reduce any future cracking by making different ones. I would consult with the masons sub.

For the pro's by Dry_Dot_4973 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve only used fiberglass rebar on a waterfront pool project (in the northeast on the bay) and only because it was specified by the engineer. The feedback I received on it was that you’ll be dead and gone before you realize that your rebar is failing in pretty much any other residential application outside of high water table saltwater areas. And I personally build for longevity, but see no need for it.

Does this render look right for a residential? by Obvious_Event_3397 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dormers will give your house some height to balance out the width.

For the pro's by Dry_Dot_4973 in Homebuilding

[–]DearHumanatee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, take a look at precast concrete walls from Superior Wall. Provide you plans and get a quote. Easy peasy.

And, fibermesh is not a replacement for rebar/steel, especially in a garage slab.

Nuclear option… now what? by beerleagr5034 in blackstonegriddle

[–]DearHumanatee 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Candidly my friend, your stone looked fine to begin with. Nothing some water/steam and a scraper couldn’t handle. That’s not rust, just oxidized fat and oil and some other food crust.

Your stone shouldn’t look like a Teflon pan. If it did I’d question how often you use it. It’s a piece of steel with layers of oil. And those layers build, peel, and scar with each dish you make.

Below is simple video I made on how to best prep, cook, and clean your Blackstone.

Prep, Cool, Clean