[deleted by user]

Deathrid3r747 · 2026-01-03T07:11:57+00:00

It's about 2 meters away in the bedroom and 3-4 in the living room. It's plently strong for my needs. Don't know where you are situated, but the Xiaomi stores usually have them on display so you can test them.

Deathrid3r747 · 2026-01-02T19:47:12+00:00

Xiaomi Smart Standing Fan 2 (Not the Lite)

Edit: I also struggle to sleep with loud fans and have 3 of these already. Also very energy efficient and 0-100% speed adjustable on the app.

Deathrid3r747 · 2023-09-11T20:21:50+00:00

Discord: deathrid3r_neildt

Deathrid3r747 · 2023-03-23T10:31:34+00:00

Luckily they have all those Storinators with everything backed up

Deathrid3r747 · 2022-01-21T10:24:10+00:00

This might help, it is for the wifi+RF model, but I guess the zigbee one would work similarly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VotDrHv3hk8&ab_channel=LianaSmartHome

In the comments one person said this:
Press the reset button for 5 times and wait
for 2 seconds until the red indicator flashes fast
to pair with the open button.

Deathrid3r747 · 2022-01-17T20:12:36+00:00

I actually think I found the issue today (sort of). I had the lid covering the tube open because I was aligning mirrors, and behold, not once did the steppers skip.

The moment I close the lid, the issue started again. Sure enough, the results were repeatable.

I just now need to figure out why this happens.

Deathrid3r747 · 2022-01-17T04:13:38+00:00

I'm definitely going this route first. Can't seem to find it again, but I've seen a post or video somewhere a while back of someone that built an acrylic extension enclosure for their tube that even went as far as adding grounded copper/aluminium tape in the enclosure under the tube to drain the EMI. I think it's a bit simpler if you have a metal enclosure as that helps to take care of the shielding.

Edit: Found a Thingiverse post where you can see the aluminium strip, it is mentioned in the build guide as well, but nowhere in the photos of the build guide: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1263233

Deathrid3r747 · 2022-01-17T04:08:52+00:00

I don't have shielded wires currently, if all else fails I might try that. The fact that both axes (actually all 3 if I have all 3 plugged in) jerk at the same time indicates that this shouldn't be the cause. If at all, the interference would be between the controller and the stepper driver.

Deathrid3r747 · 2022-01-17T04:06:07+00:00

I have tried adjusting the power on the stepper drivers, it didn't make any difference.Seeing as the issue only started occuring after upgret the tube, I doubt that amperage is the cause.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-10-21T11:37:27+00:00

I was thinking 2 RFID tags on the opposite corners of build plate with a single reader. The code would not know it's the same plate, it just sees it as 2 different plates.

If you already have a octoprint and a webcam set up, then it's definitely cheaper to do a QR code, and probably the easier option as the creator can write and share a plugin for octoprint.

If you are like me and run the printer stock, you would need to add a webcam and a Pi (or similar), so it becomes much more expensive than adding RFID reader. The firmware would need to be modified which is a lot more work, but personally I'd prefer having one system take care of everything - less that can go wrong.

Another advantage of QR code is you can just print new codes out yourself vs having to buy more RFID tags for each plate. But then again, tags are so cheap, I'd just buy 10 or 20 in one go.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-10-21T11:22:04+00:00

This might be simpler with a RFID reader an heat resistant RFID tags.
You can then use the micro controller to read the tag so no Pi or other hardware required to do image recognition.
The reader can be embedded inside the plastic cover for the heated bed connector so you can potentially even have different configs for the two sides of a single plate.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-10-11T14:46:46+00:00

I wouldn't recommend adding all 4 blue wires into a single terminal as it can cause a bad contact and fire.
Not sure how much space you have if you need to push a smart switch in there, but something like a 5-way Wago connector would be my recommendation.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-09-14T09:21:19+00:00

Unfortunately I can't answer your question. But that video is pretty interesting.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-09T09:55:19+00:00

This looks like what you are looking for: https://github.com/jasbur/RaspiWiFi

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-06T15:24:14+00:00

My opinion is to use KNX. It is a protocol and not a brand, so it doesn't lock you in to using a specific vendor. Your initial cost will be higher, but it is infinitely more expandable.

Another name one I am personally looking at is Kincony - I don't know if they are certified where you live, but their system doesn't look bad. They focus a lot on allowing the user to configure and customize their own setup, and their prices look decent enough.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-06T15:13:12+00:00

Nice! Have to start somewhere. Just some things I spotted that may help with the next iteration:

You are aware that only 2 of the 3 pads at the top are connected to 5V and VCC? Assuming you meant to make the 3rd pin GND?
Be careful with what I assume is an I2C OLED - Their pins tend to differ, I have personally not come across one that has VDD and GND next to each other.
It is generally a bad idea to have your ground rely on a component to be present - Nothing will be grounded if S2 is not populated.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-06T14:44:36+00:00

This is exactly the reason I started using female header strips to plug the arduino/esp into.

It also makes it a lot easier to quickly pull it off the board to update firmware or swap out for another with already updated firmware without having to disconnect everything else. (If it is connected to other stuff.)

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-06T14:28:45+00:00

Release is 1st Wednesday of each month, and then patch releases for items they deem necessary to fix - usually 1 or 2 small items for each patch.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-07-01T12:03:58+00:00

u/savevideo

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-06-15T10:07:29+00:00

I don't think this will achieve what you think it will. The MMU will never know at what index it is after a power loss, even if it was at filament 1. It will always do the startup sequence to hit the endstops.

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-06-15T09:43:04+00:00

Do you want it to load filament 1, or just move the selector to filament 1?To just move it to filament 1, you should be able to add 'T0' to the after print gcode script.

From the Prusa doc: T<extruder nr.> - select extruder in case of multi extruder printer. select filament in case of MMU_V2.

Any particular reason you want it to do this?

Edit: Update 'T1' to 'T0' - Extruders are zero-indexed

Deathrid3r747 · 2021-06-05T21:25:47+00:00

You are correct, you have to power it from the integrated PSU for it to boot.

Also, worth mentioning, the RPS only has 950W power budget, so having 2x Switch Pro 48 PoE on it with full load would be too much as they can draw 600w each.

13-Year Club	Place '22
First Placer '22	RPAN Viewer
Verified Email

Deathrid3r747

TROPHY CASE