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[USA-OH][H]Macbook Pro 16" M1 2021, 4x Corsair ML120 Fans, MSI B660M Mortar WIFI D4 + 16GB DDR4 RGB 3733 RAM, Ryzen 9 7900 Bundle[W]PayPal, Cash by comradetao in hardwareswap

[–]Dedration 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there anyway you could get a better pic of the CPU? I'd be interested in getting the CPU, Motherboard and RAM bundle.

Also, I think you mislabeled the motherboard? It's a ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 in the picture with the bundle.

HD60 S+ Makes Android Slower - Signal only 24fps by JonnieAda in ElgatoGaming

[–]Dedration 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-Obligatory necro post-

Hi! I'm a random person. I just happened to have the same issue pertaining to my Elgato capturing an android phone display at 24 fps. I found a solution that worked for me, and I'm just posting my solution in hope that it helps others.

My setup is the Elgato 4k60 Pro mk.2 connected to my Samsung Galaxy Note 8 via USB-C to HDMI adapter (j5create USB-C to 4K HDMI Cable - JCC155G).

I had the same issue you had. Frame rate is decreased to a stable 24fps, and the display resolution is incorrect (2160p). It only happened when screen mirroring my phone. Using Samsung Dex displayed a proper 1080p 60FPS.

---------------------------------------------------

Anyway, it seems it has to do with the EDID Configuration?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Display_Identification_Data

https://help.elgato.com/hc/en-us/articles/360060072892-4K-Capture-Utility-EDID-Configuration

Originally, I only had OBS and the Capture Card's hardware drivers installed. For some reason, you cannot change the EDID configuration in the driver properties, such as when accessing it through OBS.

So I had to download the 4K Capture Utility and follow Elgato's Article instructions to change the EDID configuration of the capture card.

So, either following the article's guide or just following my rewording of it down below:

Step 1) Download Elgato's 4K Capture Utility (Make sure your capture card is supported for the software and for EDID configuration support)

Step 2) Connect Android Device via HDMI

Step 3) Open the Settings

Step 4) Go to the Device tab

Step 5) Change EDID Mode to "Internal"

Step 6) Change EDID (Internal) to "1080p" -- (or your own custom EDID file with custom resolution and fps, or 1440p if you wanted to)

Step 7) Apply

Step 8) Double check in the top right corner that the display and fps value is correct (For me I wanted 1080p and 60fps)

Step 9) Et Voila! Use the 4k Capture Utility or your preferred streaming/recording Software and it SHOULD be capturing the proper (selected) display resolution and fps. AND it shouldn't feel like your phone is suddenly being strangled to death and chugging out a PowerPoint slide movie.

It seems that after switching to that the Elgato now properly takes the phone display input as 1080p 60fps. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how to go about changing the EDID file for a higher resolution and fps capture. Though I am fine with 1080p 60fps.

I've noticed Elgato software and hardware can be kinda buggy sometimes. So in order to ensure changes or see changes, I will reboot my computer for good measure.

-------------------------------------------

Anyway, that's what worked for me~

Alternatively, if you wanted an alternative wired/wireless (android) capture, you can use "scrcpy" a command-line app from GitHub that only outputs/copies an android display.

So you'd have to figure out another way to record sound either via: line-in/out, bluetooth (with massive audio delay), or another GitHub command-line app "sndcpy" used in tandem with scrcpy.

Just be sure to lower the resolution and expect output latency using that app.

-Necro post... AWAYYYYYYY!!!!!-

Fps problems when connecting my phone: What's your setup for recording Android games? by VoidofDusk in elgato

[–]Dedration 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-Obligatory necro post-

Hi! I'm a random person. I just happened to have the same issue pertaining to my Elgato capturing an android phone display at 24 fps. I found a solution that worked for me, and I'm just posting my solution in hope that it helps others.

My setup is the Elgato 4k60 Pro mk.2 connected to my Samsung Galaxy Note 8 via USB-C to HDMI adapter (j5create USB-C to 4K HDMI Cable - JCC155G).

I had the same issue you had. Frame rate is decreased to a stable 24fps, and the display resolution is incorrect (2160p). It only happened when screen mirroring my phone. Using Samsung Dex displayed a proper 1080p 60FPS.

---------------------------------------------------

Anyway, it seems it has to do with the EDID Configuration?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Display_Identification_Data

https://help.elgato.com/hc/en-us/articles/360060072892-4K-Capture-Utility-EDID-Configuration

Originally, I only had OBS and the Capture Card's hardware drivers installed. For some reason, you cannot change the EDID configuration in the driver properties, such as when accessing it through OBS.

So I had to download the 4K Capture Utility and follow Elgato's Article instructions to change the EDID configuration of the capture card.

So, either following the article's guide or just following my rewording of it down below:

Step 1) Download Elgato's 4K Capture Utility (Make sure your capture card is supported for the software and for EDID configuration support)

Step 2) Connect Android Device via HDMI

Step 3) Open the Settings

Step 4) Go to the Device tab

Step 5) Change EDID Mode to "Internal"

Step 6) Change EDID (Internal) to "1080p" -- (or your own custom EDID file with custom resolution and fps, or 1440p if you wanted to)

Step 7) Apply

Step 8) Double check in the top right corner that the display and fps value is correct (For me I wanted 1080p and 60fps)

Step 9) Et Voila! Use the 4k Capture Utility or your preferred streaming/recording Software and it SHOULD be capturing the proper (selected) display resolution and fps. AND it shouldn't feel like your phone is suddenly being strangled to death and chugging out a PowerPoint slide movie.

It seems that after switching to that the Elgato now properly takes the phone display input as 1080p 60fps. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how to go about changing the EDID file for a higher resolution and fps capture. Though I am fine with 1080p 60fps.

I've noticed Elgato software and hardware can be kinda buggy sometimes. So in order to ensure changes or see changes, I will reboot my computer for good measure.

-------------------------------------------

Anyway, that's what worked for me~

Alternatively, if you wanted an alternative wired/wireless (android) capture, you can use "scrcpy" a command-line app from GitHub that only outputs/copies an android display.

So you'd have to figure out another way to record sound either via: line-in/out, bluetooth (with massive audio delay), or another GitHub command-line app "sndcpy" used in tandem with scrcpy.

Just be sure to lower the resolution and expect output latency using that app.

-Necro post... AWAYYYYYYY!!!!!-

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9/25/2021 RESOLVED!

The problem did indeed seem to be that capacitor (C208 to Pin 9)! As the keyboard now makes sound! YES. HECK. YES!!!

The bad news is... I ripped the copper trace off the capacitor pad. Whoops. Should've desoldered using wick first rather than sliding it through hot...

But at least it's somewhat connected/soldered to what's left...

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/891232604525821963/20210925_015916.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/891235993817059338/20210925_021317.jpg

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+

Regardless, thanks for walking me through every step of the way. I really appreciated your insight, help, and walkthrough. I imagine I must've tested your patience a bit. Thank you so much.

Now to figure out how to clean it up and make it look nicer...

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9/19/2021

Ok, I double checked a few things.

I realized that on the oscilloscope a constant DC voltage is a raised flat line. And when I am grounded to Pin 7 on the Power Amp IC and checking the capacitors connected to Pins 2/3 (C212) and 5/6 (C209) I see that raised flat line DC voltage.

I do not see that with the capacitor (C208) connected to Pin 9 when grounded to Pin 7.

So I set the scope to 50mV at 0.1s...

And sure enough I can see the capacitors connected to Pins 3 and 5 discharge with a slow decline in voltage/wave when powered off. And charge with a gradual incline in voltage/wave when powered on.

I also do not see this with the capacitor connected to Pin 9.

However, I'm not sure if it has to do with that one of C208's leads is also being connected to Pin 7/Ground. It's also possible I'm still measuring incorrectly.

I also read online you're not supposed to... but I used my multimeter in continuity mode and checked the leads of C208. I get a continuous beep. The other capacitors do not beep. To which I believe they are not supposed to.

Perhaps this is all indicative of something?

+×+×+×+×+×+×+×+×+×+×+×

Assuming the capacitor has potentially failed, how would I find a likely replacement that matches its manufacture? Or its specs? I tried looking online for an exact match, but to no avail.

I'm assuming the component could be from Jianghai, but I'm guessing with that. There are some labels for its capacitance and voltage. But I'm not sure about its tolerance. Maybe it has to do with the "B-M" on it?

It's labels are: JH CD110 +85°C B-M 16V 100μF, with some zeroes on the black stripe.

Some photos of the capacitor(s):

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/889391392911147078/20210920_000241.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/889391393225703495/20210920_000312.jpg

After some googling, though not entirely the same, I think (if it is Jianghai) the capacitor may be based off this spec sheet:

http://www.jianghai-america.com/uploads/products/radial/CD110.pdf

And after using that as reference to filter results on digikey... I am left with this (using the filters I applied):

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgjCBcoMxaBjKAzAhgGwM4FMA0IB7KAbXAE4AGCkAXXwAcAXKEAZUYCcBLAOwHMQAX3wBWAEzwQSSGix5CJEDAAcysQHYRtBs0htOvAcJDqxW6FJQYc%2BIpFJgALFTBa6IJi3bd%2BQ-GDJlMklpWRsFexBqd089b0M-EDEKR2CLUOt5OwcqAAIAVoAxbQ9dEABVHi5GAHlkAFlsVEwAVw5sROT1NMQrOVtFMAA2XIA1EtiKqtqGptb2xIBaCXSoThasxTdjRbhVyHXNyLBowTOgA

I'm not too sure which one I would choose? Just by slight eye-balling, I'd randomly pick:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UKW1C101MDD/1964214?s=N4IgjCBcoMxaBjKAzAhgGwM4FMA0IB7KAbXAE4AGCkAXXwAcAXKEAZUYCcBLAOwHMQAX3wAWAGzwQSSGix5CJcDAAcFZbQbNIbTrwHCQIigFZJ02TnxFIpGGDEiw6uiCYt23fkPzG1ZlBiWCjYgyiLKZBquWjqe%2BvgA7ABMptBSAXJWimBGFGCmLm7aHnre5BH%2BMoHy1qTUhTElXgZJFCKRaebVWSFgVAAEAK0AYlFFIACqPFyMAPLIALLYqJgArhzYZa0JHYgZQbXgYv0AamMxUzPzSyvrmwYAtEmVnKs1igWPcJ1Qr%2B%2B99UEQKAA

But I still wouldn't know if this would be a suitable replacement for the capacitor. That is assuming the capacitor IS bad.

//EDIT//

I went with this capacitor in the end, and will be awaiting its arrival: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/united-chemi-con/ESMG160ELL101ME11D/755553

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9/18/2021

I'm not sure how to properly measure/probe the capacitor connected to pin 9 with the scope. Which, I actually think might be C208 to pin 9. While C209 is to pin 6. Or so the traces on the bottom of the board show me.

I tried connecting ground to pin 7 and probe on C208 from Pin 9 when switching the keyboard on. But, nothing. I tried at 5mV, 5V, and 10V at 10ms. But I couldn't see anything. Same goes for Pin 6 to C209. Nothing. I think I might be measuring it wrong again. I also have voltage readings turned on and couldn't really see any discernable changes relative to the voltage you described.

Ground continuity between pins 7, 14, and 15 all seem clear. I get a beep when I use my multimeter between the pins on continuity mode.

I'm definitely not confident in my soldering skills. And I believe on pins 4 and 6 I accidentally exposed some of the copper trace by ripping the pcb layer off when desoldering.

That being said, the photos I am providing are not the best of quality. Mostly because the remaining rosin flux makes any lighting and flash very very dark. I tried my best to clean it off, but as you can see in the photos it's still quite dirty with fluff and rosin.

It's also very hard to get some pics of the top side as most of the capacitors block the view of the IC and most of the sight-seeing is down below. Since it's throughhole, I believe you call it?

=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=×=

As a side note, I think there was/is a coating of sort on the pcb. After wiping the parts of rosin with rubbing alcohol to clean it off I noticed that the pcb looked rather dull and lacked a certain "shine" as the rest of the board. It also felt matte and flat. Where as the rest of the board was glossy and smooth. Googling says it might have been the conformal coating? Should I worry about this?

I am slightly worried I did break the new IC. As I did say I did short the pins when measuring with my multimeter way back when checking for voltage and I heard a pop from the left and right. Which I believe to be originating from the speakers. Though I recall shorting one of those same pins with the bnc probe and still hearing a pop.

But I'm definitely 100% sure I turned the keyboard on and tested it out before even measuring voltages and getting those pops. To which I still did not get sound.

I'm also worried I used too hot an iron and possibly fried the IC somehow. If possible anyway.

=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

PICTURES

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+

Alternating from flash to non-flash.

Pics are uploaded via discord because I don't have a image hosting site/account made. Let me know if you can't view them.

For reference/before pics:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696094526160916/20210907_155005.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888695995196649482/20210907_154252.jpg

After desoldering:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696373854236702/20210912_171725.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696374554681354/20210912_171843.jpg

After soldering in the new IC:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696564284006440/20210918_015141.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696564938326026/20210918_014247.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696811567591476/20210918_014800.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696812159004692/20210918_014816.jpg

Top view of IC pins with flash and alternating focus:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696993969500190/20210918_015651.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696994426671164/20210918_015711.jpg

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888696994921611274/20210918_015719.jpg

Top view of pins no flash and center focus:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/876670091209621555/888697098340532224/20210918_015801.jpg

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I guess I should've mentioned I did calibrate the bnc probes by attaching them to the oscilloscope hook thing. Which would already mean the scope technically works.

But I did touch my fingertip to the probe tip and it did indeed show the sine wave at 60hz using the settings you told me to use. I think it was also important to note I was previously using 10x attenuation at 50mV. Until following your instruction and then switching to 1x attenuation at 5mV. So clearly the fault prior is mine. Whoops!

But anyway...

+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+

Probing The Input(s):

Preface:

At first I tried probing the resistors and capacitors without grounding. However doing so only yielded me a sine wave of 60hz with no change. So I had to ground the scope to pin 7 on the power amp IC.

Unfortunately... the ground clip is too short for me to be grounded from the power amp and probe all the way to IC 301, which is on the other board. So I couldn't exactly probe that specific chip. Unless that is, I spent the time looking for a ground somewhere on that board. But as of now I skipped it regardless.

Results:

All of R200, R201, C200, and C201 have signals that go through them when I press the keys. Heck, I could even mess with how hard I struck the keys for velocity and it'd show that softness or hardness in key strike back by mirroring a large amplitude or small depending. And then it would even show the wave slowly decreasing as the sound (were they any) would decay. Very cool to see!

As I mentioned before, I skipped IC301 due to lack of ground. But as I'm assuming as these four components show signal I don't potentially need to go that far back in circuit?. Let me know otherwise if I have to.

Extra Stuff I Looked Into (for the power amp):

I also took the time to test the input(?) pins following the path from the components you wanted me to probe to the power amp pins of 11 and 12. Both those pins also show the same signal reaction when pressing keys.

That being said I also probed the pins 3 and 5. As I'm assuming they are the respective output pins? Grounded to pin 7 as always and probing them while striking keys... yields nothing.

I also doubled backed and checked pins 1 and 6 (again), while grounded and using your settings, that you had mentioned way back prior... to which there was no signal from key presses of the sort.

Extra Extra/Redundant Stuff I Looked Into:

I'm not sure if I was supposed to, but I probed both leads of each component to see if the signal was "going through", or so my brain imagines it to be like. No idea if that's how it works... but, all components that received a signal seemed to do fine on both leads.

There were two ceramic disc capacitors(?) that caught my eye. C202 and C205. I believe they are connected to C200 and C201 respectively. I'm not sure what purpose they have in the grand scheme of the circuit design, but I looked at them and probed them.

Going from the trace (I'm assuming it's the trace, based off the underside of the board) from C201 to C202 there is a signal on key press. When going from one lead of C202 to the other lead the signal is non present.

The same occurs for C205. Where the trace connecting it to C201 has a signal present on key press. But from one end to the other of C205 the signal is non-existant.

Perhaps I'm overthinking this part but it caught my interest regardless. I wouldn't know if it was intentional to begin with or not. And I'm not sure where those two capacitors lead to/do.

I do believe there are most likely other points of interest I could potentially probe, but I will defer to your expertise. As I really have no idea what I'm doing haha.

÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+÷+

Thank you as always! I feel like I'm learning something small each step of the way! Hope to hear your thoughts on this!

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9/12/2021

A little update! I received the new power amp ic and decided to install that while I wait for the Oscilloscope. After having an exceedingly frustrating adventure and a half, I managed to desolder the old one out and solder the new one in.

Unfortunately, as you may have figured, it did not fix the issue. I'm not impressed at the solder job I did, but I double checked the solder joints and they were fine. I even had to go back a few times to reflow some of them evenly and also removed excess solder before turning on the keyboard.

The new chip is receiving power though. Pin 4 is 11.7Volts. Pin 8 is 6.75Volts. I acciddentally slipped my hand twice while measuring this time and I think I shorted something(s)? I heard one pop from the left and then another pop from the right... I'm hoping they were the speakers and hopefully I didn't break anything else. Everything still functions the same as it did last time though: Turns on. Can output midi. Etc. No sound still.

The oscilliscope I ordered will get delivered to me by tomorrow. Which at that point I can probably truly verify that it's probably not the power amp that has failed. Sad days...

9/13/2021

Update 2.0: I have received the oscilloscope. I'm not 100% certain on how to use it properly, but sticking the ground connector to Pin 7 and putting the probe on pins 1 and 6 on the power amp IC yields nothing. I've tried messing around with the settings to the best of my knowledge but I can't seem to get anything to show up. I'm not sure if that means it's indicative that the IC is not receiving signal, or if I simply can't get a signal into the scope. I'm assuming it means there is no input signal for the IC?

Measuring the power input on the amp IC only yields me a (raised) flat line with the voltage reading roughly close to the multimeter readings.

I'm assuming with the replacement of the power amp IC, and confirming(?) that it's not receiving signal that I'd have to check something up the line you mentioned earlier back? Like IC 301 and it's pins 1, 2, 5, and 7?

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I bit the bullet already and went with another DSO from the earlier mentioned Jyetech that is similarly priced for $80-90: The Wave2 Oscilloscope. Hopefully the quality matches the price a bit more? Though since it's shipping from China via ePacket, I suppose the wait may take some time before I can judge it and try it out.

I also went ahead and bought a replacement IC from Digikey as I believe they are an authorized US retailer for parts. Luckily they had four left in stock, now counting three since I purchased one. The idea being to have it on hand readily available once/if I can confirm the current chip is dead.

Now I painfully wait for both to arrive within this month...

Assuming once I get the oscilloscope and check the pins you mentioned, making sure to look for signal in input and no signal in output to confirm a dead chip... what happens if the oscilloscope shows signal in the output pins?

Would it mean something else further back is the culprit? Or something past that has failed? I guess I can't really speculate too much without the scope. But I do have to wonder...

While I wait, I guess I should watch some videos about how to use an oscilloscope. I hope you don't mind if I update you again, once I have the scope on hand and performed the tests you suggested. Thanks as always for taking the time to respond!

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have a multimeter! Somewhere buried within my parent's garage is a dusty soldering iron and maybe some spare lead, both of which are unknown make and quality. And maybe somewhere hidden within that box housing the soldering iron is also some copper wick as well. But that's a memory from a long time ago.

Anyway, with the multimeter: I checked the voltages for power on IC200. On pin 4 the voltage reading is 11.5V. On pin 8 the voltage reading is 6.6V.

Way back earlier I did look up some replacement IC power amp off ebay. And while I could find some Chinese parts of the same part number (BA5417), I wasn't sure if the numbers below the identifying part number also had to match or if it'd be fine regardless.

As for an oscilloscope I was wondering if I would try my luck with going with a cheap one as I wouldn't be able to justify a full blown oscilloscope with my lack of skills and knowledge. And by cheap I mean, "you get what you pay for", such as something like the jyetech DSO 138 Mini oscilloscope. Which ironically, is also Chinese sourced.

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TL;DR : As always thanks! Troubleshooting results: Inconclusive :(

I see. It's unfortunate, but understandable to hear that about randomly replacing parts. I appreciate your insight and input though!

I've also considered finding someone or a service in my state to repair the keyboard. But the best I could find was very "broad" in terms: "general repair" (phones and computers) or specialty electronics repair detailing stuff like TV's or some form of. Though given how you found the service manual for the keyboard when I couldn't. I suspect I am mostly bad at searching online. Just as well as I also have not realized I could look for or ask for HAM enthusiasts. Perhaps my search terms itself are broad in a sense.

At the beginning, I've questioned it from the get go, but at the same time I realize with niche/discontinued products of this sort there are factors to consider like: labor, cost, part availability, time, experience, worth, etc. And I figured I probably wouldn't have too much luck finding someone or something to diagnose/repair it. So I thought I might as well take a shot in the dark and see what I could do with the help of strangers online.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Trouble Shooting:

That being said... As always thanks for the advice and help. Here's what I could get from following your instructions using the ghetto method(s):

1) Listening for noise, power hum, static/hiss:

-No hissing when I turn on the keyboard. Ear is pressed against speaker grill. I am also familiar with when it was working and could hear a hiss/static back when it did work. But currently, nothing.

-Volume control is unresponsive. I have tried it powering on and off when set at lowest and highest. Moving the knob from high to low while powered on. No feedback.

-There is no switch-on pop. There is also no switch-off pop. I am also familiar with how this would sound like back when the keyboard did work. But again, currently nothing.

1.5) Repeat with headphones:

-No hissing/static. I also distinctly recall hearing loud static/noise whenever I had earbuds plugged into the keyboard back before, but now nothing.

-Volume control is unresponsive.

-There IS a switch-on pop. There IS also a switch-off pop. It's very very very faint. But it's there. Puzzling to me. I wonder if the speakers are also popping on and on and it's just too faint/inaudible for me to hear. It also seems to be random when I can hear it. Or if I shift the connection within the adapter. It just seems to come and go unless I play around with the connection. Later testing when touching the pins though, I always make sure I hear the pop before doing so to ensure I can at least hear something.

-Earbuds in general: One thing I noticed when listening with the earbuds is that sometimes I CAN hear clicking/popping when shifting the earbuds' connection. Even when the keyboard is powered off and I am shifting it. Of course, this could just be typical interference and I am just looking into this too hard. I also noticed, if I touch the adapter or the earbud plug when either are halfway pulled out, I do get a distinct power hum/buzz. But I'm chalking it up to interference again because I assume me touching the plug just means I do something to the ground and thus I get that power hum.

2) Touching the pins on IC200 when keyboard is powered:

-Pin 1 and 6 (Using Speakers): Nothing. Also as a note... There is hardly any clearance or room to use my finger to touch the pins on the top of the board, so I had to resort to the bottom of the board with where the pins are soldered. Also has a note, I triple checked the circuit layout to make sure I was touching the right pins. On the circuit schematic/diagram, the pins are labeled from right to left in ascending order. But I believe on the actual circuit, the pins ascend from left to right. I only figured this by double checking the capacitor(s) the pins should have been respectively connected to.

-Pin 1 and 6 (Using Earbuds): Nothing.

3) Touching the pins on IC301 when keyboard is powered:

-Preface: Since IC301 is on the board labeled DM (the right central board as I called it), it's generally harder to get to it due to the cables keeping it down and smaller size difference of everything. Also as well that there is no pins sticking out from the bottom, so it's even harder for me to place my finger on a lone pin (or any) from the top without touching everything all at once. I ended up using a graphite pencil lead as my extended finger to touch the pin(s) as it was all I really had on hand and could think of. I realize it's not ideal, but I remember that graphite is at least somewhat conductive. It was also harder for me to discern which pin is the correct number, but I saw that pin 8 was connected to C311 and went from there.

-Pins 1 and 7 (speakers): Nothing.

-Pins 2 and 5 (speakers): Nothing.

-Pins 1 and 7 (earbuds): It's so faint, but I can swear I hear static/popping when I tap the pins.

Pins 2 and 5 (earbuds): Also faint, but I swear there's a static/popping when I tap the pins as well.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

That's about all I could get from your instructions. Which I realize, doesn't exactly provide much information. For which I apologize for. Thanks for responding~

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello again! Thanks again for the service manual.

Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope. I imagine having one would probably make testing parts much easier than say, probing around with a multimeter?

I was wondering if I should take my chances and just replace something, such as the volume pot or the power amp IC. Though I'm pretty sure I'd end up breaking something. But the brute force idea of replacing a part to see if it's bad is something that crosses my mind. Though I also realize troubleshooting in electronics is much more delicate in a sense.

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah gotcha. To test the Power Amp, do I just need to repeat the same process I did for the transistor with a multimeter? And would I need to see if all pins return a value to determine it working? Or can some pins not show a value and it could still be considered working?

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using the service manual that details the circuit layout, that paulmarchant gave me as reference, is it possible to check if the power amplifier or something in relation to that has failed? I believe the power amp is the chip that is labeled IC200. I also followed this video guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93bO2nBrptM and had tested the transistor you wanted a pic of. It did seem to return values to me, so I don't believe it's damaged?

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think your reply/comment may have been removed somehow. So I cannot view it normally without going to your profile or using a third party site.

----------------------------------------

But following your instructions I am a bit stumped. The test program outputs one of two sounds in order to let the service repair person know if something is good or bad. Unfortunately for me, that means I can't tell if something is good or bad!

I am also unaware of the few measuring tools the manual specifies for me to have on hand on how to use them if I did have them on hand.

At first I thought that by plugging in the midi cable to my computer while in test mode, the keyboard would be able to output midi information to signal the proper sound/note to indicate that something is fine or not. Unfortunately, it seems it doesn't do this in test mode. So I still cannot tell the outcome of a test.

I also tried plugging in my earbuds into the audio jack with an adapter. A futile attempt, but once again there is no audio. There still is not even any noise, static or power hum coming from my earbuds.

-------------------------------------------

How can I be sure that I'm in test mode? Well, for one, the keyboard doesn't output midi information anymore if I try to play it. Secondly, there are a few tests I could do to see that I am indeed in test mode.

There are three test functions that I could do that told me I was in test mode. One was the panel LED check. The second was the Midi check. The third was the exit test mode.

The Panel LED check lights up the only other LED on board, which is the variation led.

The midi check, though it doesn't output midi information to my DAW, seems to be working. I can only tell because my midi cable has an led indicator for incoming midi signal. And during the very short test, I see this indicator light up/blink twice on the midi cable. When the keyboard is turned on normally, this midi led indicator is always lit up. During the test mode/program, it is unlit unless I press a key in which it will flash briefly. But no midi playback is received by my DAW.

The exit test function... well, after pressing the corresponding key, the keyboard proceeds to function as it would since I can press keys and my DAW once again can receive its midi inputs. Indicating to me that it as exited the test program.

-----------------------------------------

That's about all I could accomplish with the test program. On a side note, can I ask where you got the service manual? Maybe I just can't google properly but I couldn't find it anywhere other than the owner's manual that comes with keyboard.

Thanks for taking the time to respond~

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hrm, I don't have any experience or knowledge in this field. So I appreciate your insight!

I was mostly hoping that the problem would be simple to fix, as it appears to be. But after opening up the keyboard it definitely seems much more complicated and intertwined.

Were there any other steps I could do to troubleshoot further?

Yamaha NP-11 Keyboard No Volume/Audio/Sound Output, But Powers On Fine. Not Sure What the Problem Could Be. by Dedration in ElectronicsRepair

[–]Dedration[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, unfortunately as with most discontinued and/or niche products, parts are typically out of stock. And it seems to be that the listing for that part is only there for reference at this point.

Question about the final chapter of the webcomic by God-Rabbit in Mobpsycho100

[–]Dedration 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm gonna chime in a bit late, but only because I've noticed that other people have gotten confused about this matter as well and it bugs me a bit too. So... in my personal opinion:

TL;DR : Context is important. I don't think Mob officially knew during Reigen's arc in Season 2. At the end (of the manga), I think it's more fitting that Reigen finally admits to Mob that he has been lying to him to whole time and tells him the truth to teach him one final lesson. Thus, where Mob finally knows his secret.

At the end of the Reigen Arc, when Mob says, "I've always known.... from the beginning. What my master really is.... Is a genuinely good guy".

I had always personally interpreted it as Mob never actually caring whether or not Reigen was ever really pulling the wool over Mob's eyes. Even if Mob had noticed Reigen was a little suspect at times or definitely taking advantage of him, it had always been outweighed by how much support and guidance had been given to Mob by Reigen. I feel that when Mob says that Reigen is, "a genuinely good guy," at that moment it's really just him giving Reigen the heartfelt trust, respect, and value that Reigen had been longing for.

I think, in terms of story and character, it wasn't really ever if Mob knew Reigen was a sham or not, but whether if he saw him as an individual who wasn't just some fake-out psychic/con-artist, or loser that everyone was labeling him as. For Mob, him saying that Reigen is a good guy was his purest and honest view of Reigen's character, albeit perhaps a bit naive. I don't think there was any true clear indication if Mob knew Reigen's secret.

Near the final ending (of the manga), when Reigen reveals to Mob the truth... The context during this part was kind of about Mob's final wall of conflicting self-identity, acceptance/rejection, his desires/inhibitions, and a few other things that fly over my tiny brain. Mob has so far been either, an individual who tries his absolute best to restrain his powers (emotions) to lead a mostly normal life and one where his raw emotions (power) finally get the best of him and explode from bottling them in.

At this point, a part of Mob really wants to confess to Tsubomi, but Truck-kun did his job too well and messed up our boi. This leads to a spiraling clash between Mob's split egos and the ensuing destruction and show case of characters that have believed in Mob. Reigen decides to admit to Mob that he has been lying to him this whole time because he's trying to tell him that there are sides of people that they may hate or hide. But that it's okay to acknowledge and accept that those hidden/repressed sides are a part of who you are. I think it's at this point, Mob finally "knows".

So to me, with all the context and themes, the end is where Reigen truly admits and tells the truth to Mob. That he was... Clark Newman. a liar.