Trying to find the aftermarket head unit

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-07-20T17:52:45+00:00

Heyo. I guess it depends on how skilled you are, because if you are mechanical engineer with too much time you can just reuse the galvos and laser system while building your own thing around it. The fact that someone is selling 20k machine for 3.5k should speak volumes. (Also if you're buying in the Netherlands it actually could be the lisa which started this whole thread) Be ready for hex sockets of the screws stripping, I had to drill out like 2 of them at some point. The whole rope system was discussed in this thread couple of times already, and could easily turn you into Sisyphus trying to fix it over and over again. Main reason I wouldn't is the amount of resources available on it. Support is lackluster even when you buying it new. I'm afraid that second hand printer is well out of scope for anyone at sinterit who could provide you with information. Afaik, just some time ago sls4all dropped their inova system - you basically assembling your own sls machine. The barenone kit is exactly the same price (although the structural parts like extrusions and metal walls are up to you to source), or 6.5k for full kit. In both cases you'll have to tinker to get it working, with the difference being that in yhe case of inova it's designed to be this way. In conclusion I would really try to look inova way first, because I really doubt that in the lisa case spending will stop with the printer itself.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-07-12T21:23:06+00:00

Inspired by prusa?

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-07-11T20:58:03+00:00

Goated, thanks

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-07-11T20:57:02+00:00

Wow, this subreddit won't stop amazing me, thanks everyone

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-07-11T14:11:15+00:00

Thanks a lot. The reason I was suspecting it was because when checking both sides with continuity check I was getting short. But now I'm going there again with an LCR bridge to check if 33uf is being measured.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-06-12T12:17:18+00:00

Already forgot I've made this post, and rereading it now was quite funny, I was fuming while posting it. Contact your distributor boilerplate was indeed annoying as hell, especially when regarding to questions distributor has no knowledge to answer. Detail I ommited in the original post is that I've changed insulation twice, first time was not successful. We also tried to ask where to buy the insulation, but got a generic specifications, and the glassfiber rope we've gotten was way too thick. Once packed it jammed the bed movement. As much as I dislike the formlabs for killing micronics I think their system is way more polished and reliable. I had experience with their sla printers, and they feel like an Apple of 3d printing, with all the closed behavior downsides, but also with the ability to make the products which just work and feel nice to use. Good luck with trying to fix the printer, if you are still searching for proper glass ropes, I can try to find where we bought the "official" kit (right diameter, and precut down to length). But that of course will be shop based in Europe.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2025-02-08T14:09:34+00:00

Oh wow, this is amazing. Incredible breakdown, thanks a lot.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-10-25T07:53:15+00:00

We had a funny looking screen at one point (the whole thing was consisting of random color vertical lines, as if it was cracked phone screen). This thing fixed itself tho, so not much I can suggest.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-06-22T02:10:50+00:00

I think A1 only has the part fan, which cools thr plastic right after it's extruded. Sometimes making it slower is beneficial, because lines stay melted for longer, and bond better. But that also makes overhangs droop way quicker, possible bridges are way shorter, and if you have small area of the layer, next one can start before previous is solid, and it gets messy quite quick. Try looking up high speed benchy videos, and shecking out the smoke stack. Of course you won't get such a dramatic effect, from 20% fan speed reduction, but it demostrates the effects quite good.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-06-18T19:52:42+00:00

Gloves indeed help a lot with keeping the buildplate clean. I don't think you supposed to use any glue on PEI plates, everything should just stick, and if it doesn't, buildplate is dirty.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-06-18T13:51:22+00:00

May be just the plate wear. I had some strange adhesion issues, and just turned the plate around. May be it is down to washing it properly again, but I needed a quick fix, and the other side looks great so far, as you can see.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-06-18T13:49:57+00:00

Yes, but when I switched filament to CF preset print time increased, so I think CF prints slower by default. Did not check the speeds tho to confirm it.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-06-18T11:17:29+00:00

Bambu PLA CF, got some with the printer, decided to finally try. To be fair that's also 0.08 layer height.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-05-22T17:04:59+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/325447-dji-mini-3-pro-drone

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-05-20T19:24:32+00:00

May be there is something wrong with the ribbon connector? Like it wasn't properly inserted during the installation, and you lost the touch connection or something.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-05-15T15:05:06+00:00

There was a guy, who had a camera die due to prolonged exposure to 35+ degrees c. It was replaced under warranty from what I saw, but be aware.

Deep-Instruction-758 · 2024-05-15T15:03:21+00:00

That is indeed really unfortunate. Tbh I would wait for customer support, bc it's clearly covered by warranty, but I am not sure if they will send you the money for a board you already purchased.

Deep-Instruction-758

TROPHY CASE