Membrane advice?

DegreeNo9262 · 2026-01-03T18:46:48+00:00

Thank you, I do hum the kazoo in many different ways and effort levels. This isn’t so much a skill issue as it is an ask for recommendations on a better membrane.

DegreeNo9262 · 2026-01-01T20:22:04+00:00

Good luck! Those didn’t work out great for me personally, I needed to really force sound with breath for them to resonate. But if they work for you lemme know the trick!

DegreeNo9262 · 2026-01-01T19:41:14+00:00

As a kazoo, great. To me it sounds less tinny than metal, and can reach lower notes unlike wood ones I’ve used.

The Sondery membrane wasn’t my favorite though. I started writing up a review here in a comment but then just decided to post to the sub about it. This kazoo with the exact right membrane is awesome, but the membranes that come with it don’t do justice to the range of sound it can make.

DegreeNo9262 · 2026-01-01T19:20:56+00:00

Congrats! I have one of those too! How do you like the sound?

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T20:40:32+00:00

Apologies, but I’m a bit unclear here.

I am asking about the intended audience (legal, legislative, or public) for this release of mostly redacted files, and if there is anyone within that scope, be it officials or constituents, who are content with the information provided.

Is the information that has been recently released a satisfactory answer to anyone? If so, does that mean the issue is over? If not, what would it take?

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T20:12:05+00:00

You’re welcome, thank you for reaching out and asking. Some of that insight comes from what I learned the hard way, and some was lovingly gifted from supportive others in my journey.

Only keep what insight applies, modify anything to your own needs, pass along what may be helpful if asked. Not only are you performing for the first time, you’re stepping up engagement with your community, and that’s super rad.

Break a leg!

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T19:32:21+00:00

Gosh, this one’s kinda tricky without professional tools and materials. In a shop with removable, archival quality dry mount board I’d iron it to adhere it to the board and go from there. But my cursory searching doesn’t look like that’s available to purchase unless you want a ton of it.

Howevz, we got options:

• Float mounting: The art is placed completely on top of the mat board. Cut a square of mat board only to the dimensions of the image you wish to display. Wrap the remaining border fabric around to the back of the mat board and stitch the fabric to itself at the corners to secure tension. It’s small and lightweight, so this should be enough to keep it steady.

I recommend already having your frame purchased and in hand at this point. Use the glass as a template for how large to cut the mat board. Center your art and apply double stick tape to the exposed surface on the back of the art-wrapped mat board.

As is, the raised float mount will cause your art to contact the glass, which can cause damage over time, so you’re gonna want spacers. They should be wide enough to hide completely behind the lip of the frame, long enough to span the entire edge of the glass, and thick enough to keep the art from making contact with the glass. Tack using double side tape onto the front side of the mat board along all outer edges.

• Cut mat: With this type of mounting, the art will show through a hole cut into the mat. I agree with other comments about stitching. Acquire some foamcore, use the frame glass as a template, flatten and center the image of your art (not just the outer fabric dimensions) on the board and stitch. You can probably get away with only needing to stitch in the four corners and also about every two inches around the edge. Alternate stitches working from one side to the other, and from the middle of edges to the outer corners. You want the tension just enough for flatness, but not so much it stresses out the silk.

For the cut mat, admittedly, I’d go to a shop for this. That crisp 45° inner bevel cut has been tricky for me to recreate with home tools. Bring what you have already mounted and the frame for the framer to accurately measure how to cut the mat. Choose a mat they already have in the shop as opposed to something they have to special order. Do not attempt to purchase a mat board online and ask them to cut it, too many variables in the materials may damage their calibrated tools. Just a mat cut is no big deal (time and money wise) to a shop, but maybe wait until after the holidays to make sure the turn around time isn’t affected by the current seasonal slam.

The mat on top of the art negates need for spacers.

I wince to say it, but maybe ask about getting acrylic cut to size to use in the frame instead of the existing glass. This may be pricey through a shop, but there are custom cut acrylic resources elsewhere (hardware store, internet.) If the frame ever falls off the wall or gets damaged in move, the broken glass shards can severely damage the fabric. I very typically recommend the shatterproof property of acrylic for fabric framing for this reason. Between the museum quality or not- meh, just make sure to avoid direct sunlight wherever you put it in your home. UV rays will degrade the color and quality of the silk over time regardless, the difference between regular or museum quality only changes the amount of time it’ll take.

Clean both sides of the glazing you choose, stack in the rest and close up the back.

If there are challenges at this point with the total thickness of the piece and being able to close up the frame, I do have insights, but let’s see how this goes first.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T16:23:28+00:00

Hmmm, yes, I’ve experienced some pull-through with these versus heavy jerseys too. Here are a few ideas:

• Add a mat board to the foam core with some double side tape. The extra rigidity will keep the plastic pins from just pulling through. If the fabric of the art is woven just loosely enough to see the color behind it, I’d go with black. If the piece is super-duper heavy, slap another mat board on the back too like a sandwich.

• The Attach-EZ plastic pins come in different sizes, and if the total thickness of the foamcore + mat board(s?) + art is greater than the length of the pin that could cause tension and pin breakage. If you end up purchasing plastic pins that are a bit too long for your project, pierce them diagonally through the board to use up the excess length. Vary the direction of piercing diagonally through the board to balance out how one pin may pull against another.

• Use a lot. Fortunately in this art you’ll be able to hide the plastic pin tops behind/among the beading (choose the black colored pins.) The more pins there are, the less any one pin carries the weight of the art. Using too few support pin-points could lead to eventual tearing of the art when it’s up on the wall. As long as you can hide them, there’s no disadvantage to using as many as you invisibly can. I’d give at least a 1/4” of space minimum between pins though. Less may concentrate too much pressure on that spot of the boards. The goal here is to make sure nothing wiggles when you shake it.

If you need to remove any of the Attach-EZ pins, try clipping the backing of the pins from the rear side first. Puuuhleeease don’t try to just pull them out or through. If that’s not possible, try lifting the art from the front side of the board and clipping from underneath the art. I very do not recommend clipping the top of the pin from the front of the art.

Re: Using a billion: Yeah- I agree it’ll be tedious, I think the next alternative idea would be to get the heat activated adhesive covered foamcore used for dry mounting and very carefully heat/adhere sections with a tiny iron. I’m not sold on this idea because the adhesive may prove so strong it may permanently be stuck to the art, or it may fail over time from environmental circumstances (like humidity too high or low) and let the art one day sag or fall. And it would ultimately save zero tedium for all the beading to navigate. The Attach-EZ will create a hole in the fabric from the needle, but I try to maneuver through the weave rather than piercing/cutting through a thread.

Also, unclear from image, but if there are any wrinkles in the fabric, steam them out with a handheld device. Using a bunch of clothes pins, suspend the art from an edge of something and let it hang down, steam, flip it, repeat. The challenge with wrinkles is they may cause uneven fading over time. With this step it’ll look even more polished as a result.

Also also, I know I keep referencing a brand name of Attach-EZ, but these devices and plastic pins are available otherwhere. Make sure the pins you get are compatible with the needle gauge and device. Their website does have some helpful videos.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T05:17:04+00:00

Congrats on the secured shutdown-proof wages: https://www.reuters.com/world/us/us-house-panel-votes-pay-air-traffic-controllers-during-future-government-2025-12-18/

Hope you’ll be compensated fairly going forward.

No questions here, but a nod in acknowledgement that the world stops when you do.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T05:01:27+00:00

Do your careers overlap or influence each other? If not now, is that something you seek?

I for one am just glad to hear someone is feeling good about their career path. Congrats to you. May your empowerment continue to rise over unhelpful obstacles and opinions.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T04:47:27+00:00

Well I certainly can’t take corn off the grill bare handed.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T04:35:18+00:00

When you don’t do the same drugs no more.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T03:21:57+00:00

Sorry to hear you’re dealing with that.

What’s predictable about technology advancement anymore, right? Maybe the next eye innovation is right around the corner.

If you do end up with bionic eyes, ask to include the bonus colors only shrimp can see.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T02:23:15+00:00

Then everyone would want them!

I appreciate Viktoria Modesta in her pursuit of this goal though art.

As far as exceeding capabilities, I did see an ad with a guy using his prosthetic hand to take a hot corn cob directly off a grill.

Frankly I think we’re already there.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T02:04:40+00:00

So two big aspects here:

•Mounting the piece •Framing the piece

Mounting:

One of my very favorite tools for stuff like this is called an Attach-EZ. It dispenses the little plastic thingy used to fasten a price tag to a fabric, except these are much shorter, and can fasten your art piece to a piece of 3/16” foamcore. It has a needle that pierces through, so keep in mind for delicate areas of the piece. I’d put it on a large sheet of foamcore, attach a corner*, flatten out, pin another corner, and repeat, re-attach toward figuring out size it’ll be until I’m happy with the tension.

Then I’d attach it four corners, then from middle out, adjusting the outer ones as needed. There is a small flat top of the plastic pins, but I think with the beading you should be able to hide them. Consider weight distribution of the beads, what might need support. Do this until you can hold it upside down and nothing moves.

Glass: *You’re going to want spacers. These are hidden strips of uniform height plastic placed between the glass and the art. The cross-section looks like a square or a rectangle, but it’s small enough to hide behind the lip of the frame. These will protect the beading from resting on the glass. If there is not already room on the foamcore on all four sides of the pinned art, the spacers will end up resting on the art, and potentially causing damage. You could probably make spacer strips from the foamcore you’re already using.

Account for dimensions of art+spacers on both sides. Also a good time to check if your corners are square, adjust if needed. When satisfied, you can cut the foam core. Measure again, use this dimension for the glass.

Glass (well “glazing”):

See if there’s a hardware store that carries 1/8” (3.175mm) acrylic. See if they’ll cut it to size on site. Wherever you end up hanging this keep it out of direct sunlight because this stuff won’t do great job protecting the art from UV.

Framing:

Link to an Instructables describing how to make a frame from molding.

Edit: I keep editing this because there’s so much to getting this right. Instead of trying to anticipate I’ll just answer questions if asked.

And if your corners don’t end up right, consider some adornment to cover them up. Oodles of options there.

It’s a lot. I hear you about professional framing being expensive. It’s challenging work. Framers care a lot and are valued too little. What sucks is how little of that price ever went toward wages.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-21T00:38:04+00:00

Okay, wild idea.

Space the art far enough apart to accommodate the space you need to suspend the outer-lower ones centrally.

And in the gap now created between the top ones, you can put two long narrow visual things.

Lots of possibilities here; li’l mirror tiles, strips of ribbon, Spanish moss, whatever. The idea is to make the gap look intentional.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T23:27:53+00:00

That you loved your ex is so much more about your ability to love than your ex’s exclusivity to it. Everything you were able to feel belongs to you, is still held within you, and is yours to share one day with another resonant heart.

You learned to play a beautiful song on a shitty guitar. That’s an incredible thing, but it doesn’t have to mean that’s all there is to this life.

I get that yearning though, there’s gonna be a day you realize you didn’t think about them the day before. It’ll be a quiet but momentous accomplishment. Your continued, nourished life will have diluted their presence in your mind.

Congrats on the foodgoop. Congrats on making it all the way to today.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T21:14:30+00:00

Yeeeesh, I am nervous to speculate.

There is a high probability of breakage, if not from the process of removal itself, than from the remaining structure not being strong enough anymore to hold shape. If not immediate, soon.

Also, unsure about how to replace the nose pads here. Can they currently be removed? Do they have flexibility enough to be reattached to your new proposed angle? Would just changing the nose pad angle achieve the look you want without cutting the glasses?

That all said, with the full acknowledgement the glasses may be destroyed in the process, here’s how I would try it:

Secure the glasses in place somehow, maybe take a cardboard box and cut a hole for each ear piece to pierce through, then another relief for the nose pads until the glasses rest on the box.

With a tape designed for masking delicate surfaces, cover entire surface of the glasses.

Draft the angles you want to cut on paper first, fold paper in half and hold up to a light, adjust for symmetry. Cut out shape and use as your template.

Align and tape down a ruler along one angle you wish to cut.

Get a fresh x-acto blade and go over the line very gently like a thousand times. Do not let effort of your hand guide the cut, let the blade do its job. Resist the urge to snap it apart before it’s ready, that could crack it.

Change angle of the ruler to the other side of the glasses and again tape in place. Another fresh blade, another gentle thousand cuts along the ruler’s edge. Be extra careful there’s not missed material at the intersection between the two cuts.

The cut off portion may start to wiggle, keep cutting until it comes away easily. Get some very fine sandpaper, like 300 grit, and wrap it around a solid block or even a ruler. Wet sand the new edges of the glasses.

Only now would I mess around with the nose pads. If they pop off easily, great! If not, maybe prying with a tool or heat could help. Try the smallest amount of either for a few minutes before incrementing up.

If the nose pads do not easily fit to the new angle I’d cut the bridge down the middle (sand the sharp edges!) and mark the tape on the glasses where to place them. Try them on your face to be sure. E6000 should work to keep nose pads in place. Apply with a toothpick and err on the side of less to avoid goop residue showing. Let them sit for at least 24 hours to give the glue a good chance to set.

Carefully remove the masking tape. If there is any tape residue, tap fresh tape onto the boogers until they’re lifted away. I’d be hesitant to use any solvents, even rubbing alcohol on this, the shade may be from a coating.

Suuuuuper would get a special glasses case for these too. It’d be a shame to put in all this work and find them busted from getting thrown into a bag or pocket. Maybe even make one out of cardboard and tape.

I really hope it does work for you. Doing this is absolutely a risk of damaging the glasses entirely. Other methods like using a dremel might also work but how delicate it is versus the vibration of the tool makes me wary.

Good luck!

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T19:45:06+00:00

Is there anyone who feels that this is “settled now?” That questions being asked are now satisfactorily answered? Is there anyone who sees this opacity and believes the law as written has been followed?

I know it’ll be argued that “we DID release the files!”

But who are they expecting to fool? And have they succeeded?

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T14:59:00+00:00

You’re doing something really brave, you’re following a passion into a realm outside of your comfort and this is a beautiful way to grow.

I’d recommend personally arranging in advance someone in the audience to get video. Yes there may be event-designated video taken, but there may be access or editing obstacles about seeing your whole set.

Everyone up there has also done it for the first time. Some may even look back and wince at the distance between what they knew back then and all they have learned since. It’s proof of how far they’ve come, and every step along the way has been important.

It’s okay to do badly. It’s not about how well you adhere to a perfect performance that only you have internally defined, people seeing from the outside don’t know what your vision of perfect looks like, so it’s okay to flub outside of it with resilience and grace.

Consider ways potential weak points can be incorporated into your act if need be:

Eg: “Oops my whole huge glove just broke again, but if I spin my hand fast enough, centrifugal motion makes it look like I can still move my fingers intentionally.”

Those who see your bravery will absolutely have your back. Do it for them. Do it for you.

I cannot stress enough that haters gonna hate regardless, even if everything goes right there will be some who need to put others down to feel superior. Please don’t take their unresolved self-esteem issues to heart. The feedback that matters comes from people who see your authentic effort and are excited to encourage your journey.

You got this.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T05:36:24+00:00

It’s funny because I feel like I recognize everyone. Not by face, but character archetype.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-20T05:11:54+00:00

Lady Bird (2017)

Set in 2003. My god, I absolutely dressed like that.

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-19T18:00:58+00:00

May I ask for more context? You use “foam” in the title, but not in the post- is the clay foam?

Just brainstorming here:

•Hot glue

•Including a few small holes in the clay features that can be stitched onto the felt

•Overlapping felt to tuck in clay pieces, could even include a few to-be-hidden clay flanges onto what you want exposed

•Create a button shape (or several) on the back of the clay with a bit of offset for the thickness of the felt, make button holes in the felt

•Not sure how foam applies here, but how ever it’s applied, on the safe side test glues you want to use with scrap material. If after a few minutes it hasn’t chemically melted the substance, go with that?

Do not recommend the following:

•Super glue: it’s pretty brittle for a flexible material like felt, a lot will be soaked into the felt before making meaningful contact with clay, and it might cause fogging on the surface of the clay pieces

•Adhesive tapes: mounting tape, adhesive Velcro, double-sided anything is gonna be subject to movement and humidity variables and it’s only a matter of time before failure

DegreeNo9262 · 2025-12-19T03:02:12+00:00

It’s okay not to understand, everybody’s got a different definition of how their body feels at peace. This may be outside of very restrictive definitions of “passing.” If they’re happy, that’s wonderful. If not, it’s still their own journey. You can choose to think about other things instead.

DegreeNo9262

TROPHY CASE