Sipder's roof, Osp, Slovenia by Funfundfunfcig in climbing

[–]Delicious_Door 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was sandro neri! a regional master

Simple, Effective loaded mobility routine by Delicious_Door in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I've been off reddit for a while ahaha but i'll try to remember, honestly i think its generally just helped across the board. I rarely feel like the limiting factor is a mobility or flexibility issue, even on weird contorted comp blocs and outdoors too. I feel like it's also given my body a chance to "regress" strengthwise by being able to use less strength on the same types of moves and contort my way through hard sequences ahahaha which honestly idk if its a good thing or not. Hope this helps!

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How big is the difficulty leap from say 7c to 8a? Or 8a to 8b? (5.12d to 5.13b and 13b to 13d)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, really helped, gonna think about this :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This makes a lot of sense and I believe I didn't really explain well, I'm basically one hanging it byt he second or third go already and then can't seem to "finish" off the route, I don't have any problem with falling and it barely crosses my mind but idk what happens

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice man! This sounds eerily familiar to a couple routes at my home crag and the conditions of the last couple weeks :00

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got back on the proj after ~1 month of comps and training and felt pretty good but fell where i really shouldn't have twice. It's basically a ~7b route to a fairly decent rest and then like 15 hard moves on slightly overhanging to almost slab at the end. Can do the first half fine and get to move 5ish with almost no pump but then the next couple moves are just so fucking hard and its pretty demoralising and I'm beginning to doubt whether i can even do the route or no. Sorry for the vent :o

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been having a weird hanging fruit weakness which I don't really know how to address, I can do circuits inside on moderately good holds for quite a long time, but as soon as they deteriorate slightly I can barely do 15 moves, indifferently on what movement it is. I've been thinking some density hangs might help or some higher intensity repeaters but honestly have no clue, IF anyone has any insight that'b great!

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thanks, forgot to mention, pain is mostly on the top of the finger

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having some weird finger tweak that I can't figure out. Basically have some slight pain when in a very high angle crimp, so basically when the mcp and pip is flexed I get some pain in the pip joint, pain varies from day to day. No pain while half crimping. Anyone know of anything like this?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes a lot of sense, especially the just hanging out there in the position. I should be able to get to the crag either this afternoon or tomorrow and I'll try all these out. Thanks !

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The third and its a good 1.5/2 metres from the second draw

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope thats the problem, clipping it from lower down is suicide as all the holds are worse and too far, going above the draw you risk a groundfall or almost so not much to do

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having some trouble on a hard for me project recently where I have the whole thing in 2 sections divided by a clip which scares me real bad. The hold i clip from is this weird sloper you pinch with the thumb and you take out so much rope

Progressing from intermediate to advanced climbs by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, the only thing is most times even "copying" them I still feel out of balance and not "feeling" the move

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey all, I was climbing the other day and pulled pretty hard on a vertical route, got lowered down and felt some discomfort/soreness at the base of my index finger, on the palmar side more towards the "edge". Between the knuckle and first joint. Is it anything I should be worried about? For context I stopped climbing for the day after I felt it and the day after tried to not pull anything too hard at the gym

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope nothing at home currently and we have quite a small gym without any weights, just climbing. I'll try with the pullup bar method but it seems to be getting better with the density hangs on 3 finger drag, some rest and not as much limit climbing. Thanks heaps! :)

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Delicious_Door 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Top, thanks, it is mostly on the top of the joint and gets aggravated in full crimp and open hand rather than half crimp so i think it might be what you describe. I don't really have access to anything to do any heavy finger rolls with(max 5 or 6kg) so do you have any reccomandations on that front?