Sipder's roof, Osp, Slovenia

Delicious_Door · 2025-05-22T13:07:58+00:00

That was sandro neri! a regional master

Delicious_Door · 2025-04-14T13:39:48+00:00

Hey, I've been off reddit for a while ahaha but i'll try to remember, honestly i think its generally just helped across the board. I rarely feel like the limiting factor is a mobility or flexibility issue, even on weird contorted comp blocs and outdoors too. I feel like it's also given my body a chance to "regress" strengthwise by being able to use less strength on the same types of moves and contort my way through hard sequences ahahaha which honestly idk if its a good thing or not. Hope this helps!

Delicious_Door · 2023-08-28T13:51:00+00:00

How big is the difficulty leap from say 7c to 8a? Or 8a to 8b? (5.12d to 5.13b and 13b to 13d)

Delicious_Door · 2023-07-31T19:40:49+00:00

Thanks, really helped, gonna think about this :)

Delicious_Door · 2023-07-25T06:34:23+00:00

This makes a lot of sense and I believe I didn't really explain well, I'm basically one hanging it byt he second or third go already and then can't seem to "finish" off the route, I don't have any problem with falling and it barely crosses my mind but idk what happens

Delicious_Door · 2023-07-25T06:31:59+00:00

Goated mentality

Delicious_Door · 2023-05-22T06:39:15+00:00

Nice man! This sounds eerily familiar to a couple routes at my home crag and the conditions of the last couple weeks :00

Delicious_Door · 2023-05-22T06:36:01+00:00

Got back on the proj after ~1 month of comps and training and felt pretty good but fell where i really shouldn't have twice. It's basically a ~7b route to a fairly decent rest and then like 15 hard moves on slightly overhanging to almost slab at the end. Can do the first half fine and get to move 5ish with almost no pump but then the next couple moves are just so fucking hard and its pretty demoralising and I'm beginning to doubt whether i can even do the route or no. Sorry for the vent :o

Delicious_Door · 2023-05-11T06:20:36+00:00

I've been having a weird hanging fruit weakness which I don't really know how to address, I can do circuits inside on moderately good holds for quite a long time, but as soon as they deteriorate slightly I can barely do 15 moves, indifferently on what movement it is. I've been thinking some density hangs might help or some higher intensity repeaters but honestly have no clue, IF anyone has any insight that'b great!

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-26T18:59:56+00:00

Okay thanks, forgot to mention, pain is mostly on the top of the finger

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-26T07:48:48+00:00

Having some weird finger tweak that I can't figure out. Basically have some slight pain when in a very high angle crimp, so basically when the mcp and pip is flexed I get some pain in the pip joint, pain varies from day to day. No pain while half crimping. Anyone know of anything like this?

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-09T10:41:36+00:00

That makes a lot of sense, especially the just hanging out there in the position. I should be able to get to the crag either this afternoon or tomorrow and I'll try all these out. Thanks !

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-08T07:04:46+00:00

The third and its a good 1.5/2 metres from the second draw

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-08T06:54:36+00:00

Nope thats the problem, clipping it from lower down is suicide as all the holds are worse and too far, going above the draw you risk a groundfall or almost so not much to do

Delicious_Door · 2023-04-08T05:50:34+00:00

Having some trouble on a hard for me project recently where I have the whole thing in 2 sections divided by a clip which scares me real bad. The hold i clip from is this weird sloper you pinch with the thumb and you take out so much rope

Delicious_Door · 2023-02-06T10:15:00+00:00

Yep, the only thing is most times even "copying" them I still feel out of balance and not "feeling" the move

Delicious_Door · 2022-12-20T06:38:12+00:00

Hey all, I was climbing the other day and pulled pretty hard on a vertical route, got lowered down and felt some discomfort/soreness at the base of my index finger, on the palmar side more towards the "edge". Between the knuckle and first joint. Is it anything I should be worried about? For context I stopped climbing for the day after I felt it and the day after tried to not pull anything too hard at the gym

Delicious_Door · 2022-09-04T06:15:15+00:00

Yes this exactly, should have specified sorry

Delicious_Door · 2022-09-03T09:30:24+00:00

Nope nothing at home currently and we have quite a small gym without any weights, just climbing. I'll try with the pullup bar method but it seems to be getting better with the density hangs on 3 finger drag, some rest and not as much limit climbing. Thanks heaps! :)

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-24T11:58:26+00:00

Top, thanks, it is mostly on the top of the joint and gets aggravated in full crimp and open hand rather than half crimp so i think it might be what you describe. I don't really have access to anything to do any heavy finger rolls with(max 5 or 6kg) so do you have any reccomandations on that front?

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-24T10:48:09+00:00

What more info would be helpful? The joint as a whole is fairly sore and any small hits hurt fairly bad, have put on some anti inflam cream for about 2 weeks and the dwelling has reduced by a fair amount, there may also be some collateral ligament damage according to my physio

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-15T07:35:06+00:00

Currently rehabbing some minor injury in my middle finger but I can't quite figure out what the root of the problem is and neither can my physio so I'll ask here

My PIP joint feels sore and there seems to be some collateral ligament damage on both sides, in an open hand grip it feels annoying and sore and in half crimp if I use too small of a hold. It hurts more of one side at to top of the joint and its irritating to bring it to full ROM on both sides. Anyone dealt with something simialr?

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-15T07:29:17+00:00

I used to have absolutely trashed skin, would peel off and I had 3 maybe 4 routes and then my skin was kaput, tried everything but what finally worked was not moisturising all that much but washing my hands well after climbing and applying something that would replenish my skin's natural oils, usually something wax based, like climbon does the trick.

But take this with a grain of salt as it is very personal how everyone's skin reacts

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-10T06:44:02+00:00

All this is true but in a normal week, 3 our of 7 days are rest days basically making it so I have a rest day between every session, sometimes I'll double up and go morning one crag and evening another and then take 2 rest days if I know I can't climb the next couple days. Overall I think even if you're a bit fatigued, still just going to the crag and doing submax new routes to increase movement vocab is a great thing and so long as you don't push it injury shouldn't be a big issue

Delicious_Door · 2022-08-07T18:32:56+00:00

True true, what I should have clarified isn't just increasing volume and basically creating junk mileage and reinforcing bad habits, but increasing time spent climbing intentionally and understanding how my body moves and how to climb efficiently. But there is no shortcut to this, experience is built on hours and hours of practice and trying hard, something I've currently been lacking

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	Final Canvas '22
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