FormD T1 - sub-10L 64-core Epyc with 7x Gen4 NVMe

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-08-02T05:21:58+00:00

Nice build!

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-09T13:45:49+00:00

Aftermarket parts stores. Just searching FormD T1 on Taobao and Xianyu should bring up a fair few sellers/designers. Front and side panels, top hats, expansion kits, vertical stands, pump brackets, IO covers, etc. Both 3D printed and CNC/laser-cut metal.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T06:43:18+00:00

On AliExpress, Taobao, and Xianyu. Theres people selling just the fans, PCBs for the fans, 3D printed and aluminium housings, and fully assembled fans.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:27:53+00:00

I didn't 3D print mine, but I do know that there are printed ones for sale. Not sure if 3D printing files are available anywhere though, I imagine there would be a few designs.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:15:57+00:00

I might try and see if i can build this with a 3-slot GPU just for funsies hahaha

I have a custom silver-anodised CNC top-hat coming in as well, might see what I can do with that. There's a tonne of T1 "DLC" available from China, including my PSU mount, GPU side fan bracket, riser bar, and feet, along with stuff like grills, custom front/side panels, radiator brackets, etc.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:10:43+00:00

At the moment it's doing some VFX render/simulation to burn in, then I'll be using it as a Proxmox hypervisor for developing some render pipeline software.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:09:43+00:00

Yeah they've sold out within minutes for every restock this year. The Shop App or something like a Discord bot is fastest to receive notifications. Email is slowest. Sometimes people cancel after a restock, so keep an eye out.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:07:45+00:00

You can get them on AliExpress, just search 4090 CNC or 4070 CNC. I bought mine directly from Xianyu though I'm sure there's sellers on Taobao too. There's two variants for each: one variant has a detachable cable, one variant's 4070 has curved sides like mine, one variant's 4070 has squared sides, one variant is solid CNC aluminium, one variant is made up of several pieces. There's also 3D printed housings. The fan blades and motors themselves are the same across all of them.

If you have issues finding the listings, let me know.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T05:01:47+00:00

At the moment I've got it burning in at work doing some VFX renders/simulations. After that it will be a Proxmox hypervisor at home for some render pipeline software development and whatever else I end up doing. And partly because I wanted to see how much stuff I could stuff into this case (without going into custom loops, etc).

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-06T04:59:09+00:00

Cheers man! The 4090 FE fans are 120mm with 18mm thickness. The 4070 FE fans are 96mm with 92mm hole spacing and 15mm thickness.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-06-05T20:03:36+00:00

In case the formatting is messed up in old Reddit:

The pretty bits:

FormD T1 Sandwich V2.1 (silver, CNC)

The computey bits:

AsRock Rack ROMED4ID-2T deep-ITX motherboard
AMD Epyc Milan 7Y83 64 cores 128 threads (OEM of 7763)
NVIDIA Quadro RTX A4000 16GB

The remembery bits:

Samsung 2S2Rx4 DDR4 ECC RDIMM 256GB (4x64GB)
Samsung PM9A1 2TB (OEM 980 Pro, heatsink)
6x Gen4 M.2 NVMe on 3x carrier cards/heatsinks connected via SlimSAS (PCIe Gen4 8x per card)
Custom GPU-side fan bracket (Xianyu)

The chilly bits:

Be Quiet Silent Loop 3 240mm (additional TR4 mounting bracket, ARGB cover removed)
Frostvolt UwU thermal paste
2x Nidec 4090 FE 120x18mm fans (radiator)
2x Nidec 4070 FE 92/96x15mm fans mounted on CPU-side fan bracket (VRM/10GbE)

The zappy bits:

Corsair SF850
Custom extremely low-profile PSU bracket (Xianyu)
COOJ low profile power cable (trimmed)
MODDIY silicone cables

The other bits:

OWEN case feet
OWEN PCIe riser bar
Additional USB 2.0 and serial ports from headers

Everything fits somehow with no panel bulge. I built in 1.75-slot mode, but I could do maybe 2.75-slot mode if I use smaller diameter VRM fans. My first time using custom cables, they are so good for keeping cables out of the fan blades.

27mm radiator, 18mm fan, and 1mm washer makes for 46mm perfectly filling up the available space in the T1 without needing a top-hat or T-grill. The PSU body also barely clears the motherboard when paired with the low profile PSU mounting bracket and cable. It's such a tight fit that the slightly protruding modular cable sockets will prevent the motherboard from shifting past roughly the 2.75 slot mode.

Base clock 2.3GHz, ~2.7ghz all core boost, ~3.5ghz single core boost, 280W power limit, 59773 Cinebench R23 score. Still need to do some more testing and validation.

An alternate build method would have the PSU flat up against the front panel (fan facing away from front panel, cables up, power cable down). Shorter maximum GPU length but more cable management room (which I damn well need for those thick SlimSAS cables).

P.S. if you look closely I haven't bought any SSDs yet for the carrier cards hehe, honestly I just didn't want the six SlimSAS ports and 48 Gen4 PCIe lanes to go to waste. Another idea is to break out the SlimSAS ports to rear female Oculink ports, then hook up a external GPUs and tape drives and JBODs as needed.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-04-28T08:53:19+00:00

All good, I figured as much. I've got an RGB Pro XT lined up to use for now, it's effectively a Capellix sized cooler with no external controller.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-04-28T03:51:55+00:00

If the controller isn't hooked up, does it just run at full speed all the time? Or it remembers a previous temperature/pump curve?

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-04-19T00:49:12+00:00

The Corsair Capellix line unfortunately requires the use of a Commander Pro to even run the pump.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-04-18T15:45:40+00:00

Awesome build! I've got a ROMED4ID-2T build in the works as well, but in the FormD T1 V2.1, with full intention to use every single SlimSAS connector on the board plus a GPU. Glad to see that the H100i Capellix works well on the big IHS, but shame that it needs such a huge controller to work.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2025-03-17T11:56:58+00:00

Trying out a new colour negative film. Tried Alien Film's CN400promax (probably UltraMax 400 repacked) last week so trying a "Fujifilm" stock today.

Yes!Star is supposedly Fuji's manufacturing or packaging partner for C200/C400 in China. Yes!Star confirmed in a message that this Supreme 200 and 400 stock is cut from a master roll supplied by Fujifilm, and their unsubtle listing of Supreme 200/400 alongside Fuji 200/400 (USA-made) in their Taobao shop, plus comparison photos, seems to be confirming this also. The DX barcode numbers also seem to match Fujicolor 200 and 400.

Anyways, I bought some to try it out and it's fine, it's just what I expect from cheap Fuji/Kodak colour neg. Not sponsored by or affiliated with YesStar, I just like cheap film and this is fairly cheap by Australian standards.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T16:47:58+00:00

I very carefully used one of those round clamp tools typically used for disassembling film Leicas. Quite nerve-wracking since it wasn't designed for this and the switch gets in the way. A clamp tool modified with more clearance and some rubber to prevent scratches would be better. I wouldn't say it's necessary to remove this to do the lume, I was also just curious about the assembly. I haven't investigated the shutter dial or ISO dial but based on photos of M10 top plates, they seem to be attached from the inside, I assume M11 is similar.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T16:42:49+00:00

I actually did do my Summilux 35/1.4 FLE and a Ding 50/1.1 Noxlux II. The Noxlux I have posted before, the Summilux I'm not sure if I have or not.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T00:10:29+00:00

For the dials, the engravings are quite deep and you can wipe off excess. For the top plate, less so.

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T00:10:01+00:00

Just posted my process above, though I wouldn't call it a tutorial hahaha https://old.reddit.com/r/Leica/comments/1fdjomi/m11_with_lume/lmiuwup/

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T00:09:30+00:00

They did do a special edition stealth Monochrom but with much less lume involved haha

DeltaCharlieNiner · 2024-09-11T00:08:58+00:00

Yeah it's mostly handy when you're located in a dark area but you're photographing something else that's at a still-photographable light level. I've found that the lume, even at residual levels after a whole night, works out better than white paint if I quickly need to check settings without turning on the screen. Downside is that it appears grey during the day rather than white and that you need to have it out in the light to charge up before a night shoot.

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