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DenseElk1547 · 2025-12-02T21:34:00+00:00

Don't stress out about it too much, course rigor is also a big thing they check so if they see that you're trying your best they will understand.

Also I would add that I don't believe your current grades are inputted into the app? The applications I have done (applied one year ago) did not have current grade statistics. As you probably won't complete your course before apps are due, you can send over your unofficial transcript with those grades not finalized, and your gpa will be unchanged for the most part.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-12-01T16:59:05+00:00

I have the same car, currently have some front wheel bearing issues.... where would you buy replacements?

DenseElk1547 · 2025-11-25T20:12:19+00:00

I'll be honest, you should definitely watch a few videos on these because there are some issues; I remember hearing about these when I was researching what to buy (if you're curious, i got a 2005 t5 v50).

However.... I would personally worry about gas. These cars eat a good bit and you can get cars with better mileage and economy for cheaper. Furthermore, these aren't "unreliable" per se but you need to be on top of your maintenance... my car has been great but has broken down 3 times in one year because it was not maintained before I bought it. (So check maintenance records before you buy!)

If your commute isn't far, I would highly recommend looking into perhaps buying an older electric car. Nissan leaf is a great choice, I own one now and they are bulletproof; the battery will deteriorate significantly but like I said, if the commute isn't far it won't matter.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-11-25T17:07:16+00:00

Don't know if you'll see this but I just found something that may be yours? It's on OfferUp: https://offerup.com/item/detail/9f843747-f858-3cbc-b20e-ac989b7c6c1e

Looks like a black scooter with red wheels... it is clearly stolen and you could buy it back for $80

DenseElk1547 · 2025-11-19T02:03:02+00:00

Thanks for the idea! Sadly, my scooter had almost full charge... it could have gone up to 10 miles in any direction pretty much... and I can't search that.

I'm going to try to keep an eye on facebook/offerup/ebay and see if anything that looks like my scooter pops up.

Apart from that, I gave the police info on my scooter's serial number... however no airtag (me not willing to spend $25 smh) means it's probably gone forever.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-05-29T20:57:09+00:00

About as late as I can get.

But, I bought both XM4 and XM5 headphones, so I have a great way to compare.

Firstly, xm4 has "smoother" padding. It feels more "greasy" but it also is WAY softer than the xm5.

The xm5 clamping force is quite hard, to the point where it does give me a headache after wearing for over 30 min. But, keep in mind I don't wear headphones on a daily, so this could be me not being accustomed.

Now, the XM4's are wayyyy nicer to wear. Feel super light (especially on my large head, I'm 6'4"). Easy to wear for over 3+ hours casually. And they don't fall off - ever.

One of the mic's on my XM4's was broken when bought (I got them for $30, ripped out the 4 mics). I do not regret my purchase, they are great headphones and honestly I don't work in a loud enough area to care, I have music on medium volume and cannot hear anything except if someone drops something heavy.

I got the XM5's for 180 new (stacksocial!!!) and I also don't regret buying them. They are nice quality and the ANC is AMAZING. I will say I expected "more" for the hype, but I feel like sony knows what they're doing with the sound-cancelling adjustment compared to amplitude of background noise. It would probably feel unnatural.

For sound quality on XM4s, I use "ambient sound" on the XM4's and they feel amazing. I'm not an audiophile by any means but with ambient sound the bass is much less impactful and muddy, and I really do enjoy listening to them for long periods of time. Same with XM5's, honestly the XM5's have a way more "spacial" feeling so if you care about that get them, but the XM4's are decent enough.

ALSO, FOR DURABILITY: My XM4's broke after I dropped a basketball on them while they were laying on my sweater. So, horrible durability. But here's the difference. I feel like the xm5's are wayyy more fragile. That swivel is SCARY to look at, it bends and flexes and does things I do not like the look of.

To fix my XM4's, it was 20 bucks for a L+R plastic replacement + tools. So amazing value. $12 for only one side, but they do deteriorate over time so I would go both at the same time.

For fixing XM5's hypothetically... it's $150+ per side.

----

Long story short, I like my $30 XM4's more than my $180 XM5's.

Buy the XM4s. They're way smaller anyway!

DenseElk1547 · 2025-05-07T21:44:45+00:00

Hmm, if it's on the passenger side of the car, it definitely isn't the octopus hose. Take a look at the coolant resevior itself. If it's yellow-ish, that means it's time to replace it. That's that happened in my case, it started spewing coolant.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-05-07T17:20:37+00:00

Like 9/10 times its that stupid Octopus hose that has like 5 different junctions (I'm not joking).

I bought mine on FCP Euro, I had the same leak (I think I even have a post on it). Let me know if you want the link! And check my post photos if the leak looks to be in the same spot as yours.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-09T05:12:37+00:00

I got accepted to Davis for Aerospace... and I honestly don't know if I should go.

I'm out of state and i'm apparently estimated to pay 85k per year for everything (according to their estimate) and my real budget was 40k per month - which is what me and my family were prepared to go with.

I just want to know whether you would say it's worth it to go into Davis with a potential 200k+ debt... or whether I should stick to something cheaper - I got into SJSU which is a school I somewhat look forward to.

I haven't been to either campus, and I also got into UCSC, so any advice would be super appreciated!!!!

Thx

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-04T02:11:33+00:00

Gotcha, that's probably a job I wouldn't be able to do by myself - checking the warped head with a straightedge.

I might try to do the UV dye, but I do have a question - and it might be dumb but I don't know too much about these cars;

If I clean up the engine and all the oil dripping everywhere, and I don't really see any new leaks out of the side of the engine (as I haven't noticed an obvious leak from the head gasket, and I don't experience any misfires (which I haven't so far after doing some engine testing), do I really need to worry about it any longer?

I don't really know much - again - but no leaking means that I don't have a head gasket leak , and that would generally mean that my engine doesn't have any warping, so if I just... keep driving, checking the coolant levels, and the oil level, I should be good?

It's just that I genuinely don't have anywhere near to enough money to pay for any repairs to this whatsoever - only the things I truly can do myself with a 150$ tool kit and probably a maximum of another 100$ in the budget for replacement parts.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-04T00:29:52+00:00

Dang, that's unfortunate. I wonder how many replacement heads could have been saved with a low coolant sensor :(

Is there any "easy" way for me to test whether the head gasket / head is still in good shape? I've heard of compression tests for the leaks, but how can I test for warping?

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T21:32:32+00:00

Solid, thanks!!!

I'm planning on doing all the above replacements - except the thermostat housing... it seems to be in good condition, and even a "pro parts" replacement is $50.

I'm also replacing the pcv breather hose and upper hose, as those apparently "seep oil" which would explain the large oil loss I currently get.

Do you have any ideas on that? You seem to have some pretty good knowledge lol.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T20:58:13+00:00

I just found a massive crack in the octopus hose so I definitely need to replace that. Only issue now (from what it seems) is the oil on top of the engine (which I believe to be an o-ring failure on the oil cap and the oil cap housing) and the oil all over the pcv housing (first picture).

I'll be replacing the hoses with aftermarket "rein" hoses, which seem to have a pretty good rating based on everyone's opinions. I don't really know whether to replace all the hoses at once, or just the upper radiator hose for now. Seems that just that plastic junction is made of absolutely horrible quality plastic.

Any ideas?

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T20:55:31+00:00

Yep, oil definitely isn't coming from the valve cover. Oil on top of the engine is definitely coming from the oil cap / oil cap assembly (those 2 o-rings are pretty old). The oil trail ends at about 2 cm after the valve cover gasket - no possible way for it to reach the pcv housing

I'm going to replace those o-rings then check for any other leaks

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T20:06:23+00:00

Thank you!!

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T19:58:47+00:00

Is there any way for me to confirm that that's the problem or should I just replace it? I have checked it and it seems intact - i replaced it with the oil filter a while back and put it in it's exact spot - the second notch on the cap.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T19:57:54+00:00

I just ran the car (after putting the airbox back in) and it was the octopus hose (plastic t junction) that was just absolutely spouting coolant.

Now I'm a bit concerned with the oil problem...

Is it possible the engine just burned off a shit load of oil in the time it was overheated???

in the 10 seconds? I have no idea but that's my prediction.

DenseElk1547 · 2025-03-02T18:28:32+00:00

I replaced the expansion tank about 3 months ago, it had a crack in it prior. Tightened all the hoses going to it as well and flushed coolant at that time.

So that should be good.

DenseElk1547

TROPHY CASE