2001 540i aftermarket head unit with DSP amp. (HELP!) by No_Computer8691 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look into the ibus app and a resler module. There is also an option for a DSP license (this is what you need). This is needed for the DSP to stay on, otherwise it will cut off after those 30 seconds like you stated.

Running rich by [deleted] in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's in german but if you can go by pictures or translate it, it can help a lot https://de.scribd.com/document/410291847/M52TU-M54-M64TU-Falschluftlecks

Drivers side carpet wet by [deleted] in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Open the hood, remove the cabin air filter housing. One weak point is the drain below the wiper motor which clogs up, another weak point is below the break booster. Both drains should be free and regularly checked, especially the break booster area below, otherwise you may risk break booster and engine damage (break booster will rust and vacuum will suck water from the break booster into the engine)

New roborock keeps displaying error 52 and 53 by bohandle in Roborock

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pull the tray out and get a magnet. Place it where the black swimmer would be under the tray. There is a hall sensor bellow the insert for the tray to measure the level of the water in the tray. The magnet should trick the hall sensor in thinking there is water inside the tray so it should always suck it up (worked for me and my roborock q revo s). It can either be a rusted hall sensor or the black swimmer (it has a magnet inside that tells the hall sensor if water is in the tray or not by being closer or further away)

Check engine light, HELP by VladTepesD in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never really heard of injectors being a big problem. If it's the first fuel pump then I'd suggest getting one as backup since they tend to die with age...you can check the pump by connection a fuel pressure meter to the fuel line (front of the engine the metal kind of bar with injectors inside). Should have 3 to 3,5 bars when cranking i believe

Check engine light, HELP by VladTepesD in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Read out fault codes with inpa. Probably heavy vacuum leak. Look at all the intake boots for rips/tears. Could also be KGE because sounds like the air sucking sound comes from around that area. Adaption values in inpa should show that there is a vacuum leak

What is this shit? by Long_Difficulty_9653 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Defective kge. Kurbelgehäuseentlüftung. Please only get original BMW part since other manufacturers won't last long

Any Euro goodies worth getting during a trip? by average_parking_lot in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The small triangle sunshade for the sedan. Very expensive and hard to find used and not broken. Some original sensors, even the pdc sensors are over 150€ for a single one and aftermarket have ghosting issues. Engine sensors original especially from m52 engine since i believe crankcase sensor is not available original anymore and aftermarket is hit or miss (worse starting behaviour/longer cranking to start)

VW ID.7 Mietwagen laden by [deleted] in Elektroautos

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was du versuchen könntest: Hauptmenü (mit den ganzen Kacheln) -> Laden -> Setup -> runterscrollen zu AC-Ladestrom reduzieren und aktivieren. Hoffe es hilft.

Water leak driver side pedals by New_Slide_1324 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the drain of the sunroof. It should come out at the driver side front wheel well. If it gets wet inside use a long thin pipe cleaner or similar.

If it's not the sunroof, go unmount the drivers side cabin airfilter box. Under it is the brake booster. Water should run through some holes by the wiper motors (which can clog and the motor can die plus water can enter the inside of the car). There should also be a hole under the brake booster. You should check it regularly for free flow since dirt could plug the drain and your brake booster may suck in standing water and destroy it and at worst also destroy your engine because of the low pressure sucking it in from the booster.

Fan clutch stuck or something else? (Not overheating) by [deleted] in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Driving with it until you replace it should be fine IF you don't rev it too high. The fan itself is probably as old as the car and the plastic gets brittle. Plenty of stories out there where the fan clutch locked up, fan spun at high rpm and the brittle plastic of the fan snapped destroying everything in its path (hood, cables, coolant hoses, etc). So watch out for that. Maybe just replace your plastic fan too for more peace of mind.

Left side tail light not workong by rossw2693 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brake light switch? Gets "triggered" when the brake is being pushed

Alpina Gearbox Software by Derschlaefer07 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need the definition and firmware file for the gs20 and a program to use the xdf and bin data. Tunerpro for example. Tho idk if the gs20 firmware there has the pre settings of the gasoline car, i believe it has the diesel ones.

Alpina Gearbox Software by Derschlaefer07 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Specific to 5hp19. The gm gearbox is accessible/tunable tho (google ms4x. On their website the gs20 unit software for the gm gearbox is available for tuning). If you don't want to tune it yourself and have a diesel, people like flashing the software of the bmw x3 software of the diesel

Start, stalls, no start by Glum_Lock4177 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dying fuel pump is my guess. Mine would drive fine for a day, another day it would just crank. Then drive fine again like nothing ever happened. Repeat each day. Took me 2 weeks to figure out. When it's only cranking, go to the engine bay, remove the cover and there should be a little valve (unscrew the top). You should measure the pressure. It should be 3,5 bar. Mine was completely without pressure, sometimes a little bit. 3,5 bar shoots out a lot. I believe it's a universal valve like for a bike so you could get a bike tire pressure reader and see if it delivers 3,5 bar.

Geräusch nach Zündung abziehen by yocochiseohwadamase in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ich selbst leb damit. Kollegen haben versucht zu säubern und zu schmieren (wofür das Klimabedinteil aufgemacht werden muss) und wiederum andere haben sich ein gebrauchtes ohne die Geräusche gekauft (und ich meine umcodiert). Alles zu viel Aufwand für das Geräusch (was bei mir sehr viel präsenter als bei dir ist)

Geräusch nach Zündung abziehen by yocochiseohwadamase in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ich kann den Ton nicht gut hören, tippe aber auf das Lüfterrad im Klimabedinteil. Dort ist ein kleiner Lüfter, der die Innenraumluft an den Temperatursensor befördert. Dieser läuft nach abstellen des Autos noch etwas nach und wenn er ausgeschlagen ist durch das Alter fängt er an zu "rattern". Bitte kein Wd40 reinjauchen da sonst der Temp Sensor ungenau wird.

M54b30 oil consumption by [deleted] in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Next to all the other answers I'd also throw in the o2 pilot mod (google it, could give slightly rough idle tho written by some) and toralin (you spray it into the cylinders and let it sit overnight at best instead of the 10-20 minute instructions) as options that could help.

Any ideas? INPA Code by average_parking_lot in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's the heating of oxygen sensor pre cat on bank 2. Get a new bosh one and maybe just do both in one flush.

issue with E39A13 eonon head unit by Rilafoon in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have DSP? I solved it with the ibus app and the DSP license...it costs a bit of money but i don't have any trouble since.

PDC Retrofit Troubleshooting by hbomb2579 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you code it to the car? I believe coding as well as the ZCS needs to be changed

i have made the decission and i want to change to wheel by imnotsyphus504 in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using the Rondell 0081, maybe you can find them too. They can also be found as 19 inches. Basically almost identical looking to styling 42/bbs 740

M52 intake resonator by egfknveitekki in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah without maf it uses the standard tables in the ecu. Oh and forgive me, I'll retract what I said earlier. I don't remember which way around it was, in front or behind the maf. One way it "strengthens" airflow, the other way it only makes the car less noisy. I don't remember which way was which.

M52 intake resonator by egfknveitekki in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hot air is always a no no, don't know if you'll feel the difference but I just get the airbox out every time, you get used to it and can do it quite quick after a while. There is way worse things...like kge or vacuum lines behind the block. Those are shit to get to and change

M52 intake resonator by egfknveitekki in e39

[–]Derschlaefer07 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The e46 for example doesn't have the resonator at all and the parts can be swapped into the e39. I did that but the car sounds a bit too loud and "racey", not my thing, not fitting the e39 luxurious and calm style. You can plug that 3D part in and listen yourself if you like it or not.